Smog 440 build? Worth it?

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70dusterpink

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Ok here's the deal. I can get a low 40k complete 1976 440. I can't find a 66-70 high compression 440 in my area. I can get this 76 440 for $500. I have a 66 baracuda I'm putting it in and it's gutted and all. Problally 3200lbs. Has 4.10s and a spool. Will have a auto 727. My question is I wanna run 11s can it be done with a untouched smog bottom end?

My plan would be grab this stock 440.
Summits biggest 440 cam
Fenderwell headers
M1 intake with a holley 850.

My budget is about $1500 on buying motor and cam, intake, carb, and headers.

Then I was thinking a 3500 stall 10" convertor for the 727 with a shift kit or a manual valve body.

How does all this sound? Or am I building a dog? I'm open to people who have done it before. As this is my first mopar build
 
Sure it can be done. The cam you are talking about is probably not all that big. The low comp is not ideal, but your gear and light weight should make up for some of it, at least...

I'm doing something similar with my 67 convertible. My 440 has low comp pistons and a .484 Mopar cam. the car has 3.55 gears. I'm not at all sure that it will be to my liking, but I'm putting it together that way because that's what I have...
 
talk to a cam manufacturer, they can optimize that low compression motor with a cam that works with it, not against it. For not much more they can get you a cam thats light years better than a Summit shelf cam. 3200 is fat on a gutted 66, try 2900. 440 fenderwell headers are going to be very wide on that chassis, They will exit 3" inboard of the fender skin. Unless you already looked some up, I would look for some old Pro-Parts headers. They almost fit as is, just have to adjust #7 tube at the pitman arm, and take about 2" out of #8 so it hugs the inner fender.
 
Sounds like a mid 12's build to me, and that certainly would be a fun ride, imo! Depending on how "gutted" it is, 3200lbs, even with the big block, may be a little high, unless you're a "big boy" yourself? :).
 
I put together a 78 440 with that summit cam together with some 906 heads and the stock pistons. It sounds good and runs ok, but it is pretty wimpy for a 440. It would probably run better with a smaller cam. There is no way it would propel anything into the 11 second range without some nitrous or something.
 
If 11's are a must,

Clean up the heads, good valve job, and modded for big springs. Use a mid/lg. solid cam with the appropriate rockers, and with the 4.10's, have a 8" converter in the 5000 stall range built by one of the good companies, and you're there easily.....Assuming you have the suspension and bite to apply it?

Treat it like a low compression Nhra/Ihra stocker, without the rules.....Cam, Converter, Gear...60'.
 
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Get some 440 source heads find a used intake and carb and look for a new cam on the used market !!!
 
If the '66 is truly gutted you'll be under 3K lbs. That's like a race car gutted - no factory dash, no seats, no carpeting , no interior at all, race gages and race bucket - that type of thing. They're not that heavy. Assuming it can hook, I think you could touch 11s, but maybe not with a cheap convertor, a stock type suspension, and treaded tires.
All that aside - who's really going to care? Get what you want and bolt it in. If it doesn't work exactly as you hoped - make changes.
 
Yes this is a gutted 66. Just a race seat everything else gone. It still had factory dash and all that but everything behind it is gutted. I'm 220lbs. Maybe it is lighter.

Maybe I'll try this smog motor out and see how it works.... Can't be all that bad.
 
Oo ok I was thinking this smog motor like the article posted above and maybe a 125 shot of nitrous will get me into the 11s
 
70dusterpink said:
Oo ok I was thinking this smog motor like the article posted above and maybe a 125 shot of nitrous will get me into the 11s
Click to expand...

My engine makes 310hp/450tq at the tires. In full street trim (street tires 19psi, pump swill, through the mufflers) it goes 11.70's @ 114.
 
I'm going to give this a go... I'll let you guys know how it goes
 
Should I go with the 509 cam like in the article? Or is there's a more modern better choice
 
I have 4.10s with a spool, snubber, traction bars a 9" slick. I'm thinking 4000 stall 10" convertor with the 509 cam
 
Buy a better converter than a 10" piece. Some are good most are not.

The 509 cam is only better than the 484 in about the last 500 rpm of the range. Whichever you choose, advance the snot out of it in a low compression engine.
 
Got BOOST! Turbos and Superchargers love low compression. Stop thinkin 11's start thinkin 9's
 
70dusterpink said:
Should I go with the 509 cam like in the article? Or is there's a more modern better choice
Click to expand...

I don't care for hyd cams. I like solid cams. I adjust mine once per year and it rarely needs much adjusting when I do so if adjusting it is the reason you don't want one, find a new excuse or a better set of rockers.

That rant being over... If I was to go with the .509 cam I would buy the revised version. MOPP5007698AB.

I'd much rather see you run this cam. MOPP4120659AE. I've used 2 of them. Both cars run 11's and are very street friendly.
 
I don't mind adjusting them... What does a 440 need to run a solid? Pushrods? Rockers?

Main reason I picked hydro was cheap and stock pushrods and rockers
 
Adjustable pushrods or rocker arms for a solid cam.

I'm not a fan of that revised 509 cam. The last thing a low compression engine needs is a later closing intake valve, even lower dynamic compression. You can't really advance the camshaft far enough to overcome the issue and still keep the exhaust lobe from getting out of bounds. Run the 108LSA, install it at 100-102, and it will be good runner from right off the bottom with plenty of initial timing.

The big summit cam is still very small at 224 @.050 That's a dinky camshaft.
 
Ok I'll look up how much adjustible pushrods are. If not to bad I'll use the cam you said
 
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