SMOOTHER RIDE?

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DARTLARRY

DARTLARRY

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I finally after 15 years have the dart road worthy. I have put about 50 miles on it this month, the main problem is the ride. It is like riding in a train car going down the tracks. I have installed all new ball joints, tie-rod ends, idler am, and pitman arm all stock replacements.
The shocks are older but seem to be in good condition, the torsion bars are slant six bars ( I am running a 360 now). The rear springs are replacement 6 leafs What can I do to make the driving experience more enjoyable?
 
something is perhaps keeping the suspension from doing its job.

because your choice of components would be on the list for update / rebuild for a lot of us....I would ask if you maybe over tightened the U -bolts on the rear causing binding. Also, was the front tightened in the proper sequence /correct specs.

when you push downward on the front and rear....does it move freely?

you did not mention it....but what size tires /rims do you have?
 
If all the components were tightened ,springs,shackles,eye bolts ,shock bolts control arms while suspension was drooping than all the rubber parts are bound up.
Loosen it all, roll car a few feet and snug it up again.
 
DARTLARRY said:
I finally after 15 years have the dart road worthy. I have put about 50 miles on it this month, the main problem is the ride. It is like riding in a train car going down the tracks. I have installed all new ball joints, tie-rod ends, idler am, and pitman arm all stock replacements.
The shocks are older but seem to be in good condition, the torsion bars are slant six bars ( I am running a 360 now). The rear springs are replacement 6 leafs What can I do to make the driving experience more enjoyable?
Click to expand...
did you, perhaps, use polyurethane bushings on front, rear suspension? Poly motor/trans mounts? what are tire pressures? A common mistake, is tightening LCA pivot, and UCA bushing bolts before the car is lowered down and resting on all four tires, at final ride height.
 
I will loosen the front end and retighten with a load on the suspension. Tires are 14" E7014 bias ply tires. I know they are not the best for the ride, but it should not be this rough a ride. It moves freely when I push up and down on the car. Will new shocks make a big difference in the ride feel? it is almost like the suspension is bottoming out.
 
DARTLARRY said:
I will loosen the front end and retighten with a load on the suspension. Tires are 14" E7014 bias ply tires. I know they are not the best for the ride, but it should not be this rough a ride. It moves freely when I push up and down on the car. Will new shocks make a big difference in the ride feel? it is almost like the suspension is bottoming out.
Click to expand...
oh, yeah. bias ply tires do not ride well. I never considered anybody still using bias plies. Yes, shocks are important. I don't know who makes good hydraulic shocks, anymore. Nowadays, most shocks are gas-filled, which can add to harshness. KYB's used to be among the worst for harshness.
 
Poly tires with stock rubber bushings work well together, as the softer rubber has a little give to it. If using poly bushings would recommend radial tire and new shocks. Radial tires have the give in the sidewall where poly tires have less give. And stay away from KYB shocks if looking for a smooth ride.
 
What brand shocks?

What brand model number was the 6 leaf rear springs? Why the /6 T-bars and 6 leaf rear springs?

Are you running a Schumacher engine torque strap.

Did you buy new bias ply tires for this? If so what brand? Or are they the old ones from 15+ years ago?

Are you running headers? Did you have to clearance them to fit?

Did you put any new exhaust in the car? Have you check if rubbing body or rear leaf springs.

Does this car ride a lot different than you other old mopars you have now? Or have driven in the last 6 months?
 
Ok, new tires, and shocks. These were my next 2 things to change. Would a stock shock be good or are there better shocks out there for a smooth ride?
 
DARTLARRY said:
Ok, new tires, and shocks. These were my next 2 things to change. Would a stock shock be good or are there better shocks out there for a smooth ride?
Click to expand...

Off the shelf common Monroe's.

How old are your tires? Has the car been sitting in those tires for 15 years?
 
no engine strap, newer Bias ply from Coker, stock /6 bars have always been on car, 6 leaf springs from JC Whitney maybe 10-12 years ago, TTI step headers, recently installed Summit exhaust kit for Abodies no rubbing, a lot stiffer than older mopars I have rode in
 
has not been sitting on tires long, on a smooth road tires feel fine, just takes bumps and dips in the road real hard.
 
DARTLARRY said:
no engine strap, newer Bias ply from Coker, stock /6 bars have always been on car, 6 leaf springs from JC Whitney maybe 10-12 years ago, TTI step headers, recently installed Summit exhaust kit for Abodies no rubbing, a lot stiffer than older mopars I have rode in
Click to expand...

When was the last time you drove an older mopar? It doesn't take that long to forget how much different modern car drive.

I'm sorta fixated I those 6 leaf rear springs possibly being too stiff. Did you get them a stock ride height?

What brand shocks are in it now? Are they the ones you fit with the car?

So they are repro redline or something? When did you buy them new? Or did you buy them used?

All upper, lower, strut rod, sway bar and leaf spring bushings are rubber?

I'd really look at the rear exhaust where the pipe is alongside the gas tank and the over axle hoop. Is it 2 1/2" tailpipes?
 
40 y/o whooped /6 bars with a 360 hitting the bumpstops over every bump? What's your ride height looking like?
 
2.5" pipes all rubber front end, when I bought them they were called HD, redline tires, bought them used. The whole front end seems bottoms out when I hit a bump, I have the ride height a little taller in the front.
GEDC0019.JPG
 
DARTLARRY said:
2.5" pipes all rubber front end, when I bought them they were called HD, redline tires, bought them used. The whole front end seems bottoms out when I hit a bump, I have the ride height a little taller in the front.View attachment 1715094456
Click to expand...
when you loosen, set ride height, then retighten the front suspension, suggest trying to center the ride height between the upper and lower bumpers.
 
DARTLARRY said:
2.5" pipes all rubber front end, when I bought them they were called HD, redline tires, bought them used. The whole front end seems bottoms out when I hit a bump, I have the ride height a little taller in the front.View attachment 1715094456
Click to expand...

Now thinking it's the /6 T-bars.

And how old/brand are the shocks?

Pic doesn't look on flat ground and angle deceiving, but front may be a little low compared to original. Not really by today's standards/look. But combine that with old /6 t-bars.

An inexpensive route would be used 318 A/C Tbars for $50-75 they are .87" Dia and same a 340 bars.
 
DARTLARRY said:
shock are 20 years old, wouldn't new bars make it stiffer?
Click to expand...

Sound like you are bottoming out. Whole front end compresses down and bottoms out?

You got stiff rear and soft front. A far out thing would a naturual frequency deal. Hard to internet diagnose (as all this is). And sort of a stretch.

But yea stiffer on little bumps and dips.

Start with just shocks though. Go from there. IIRC, like $10-15 ea for monroes.
 
i know they are expensive,but bilsteins shocks will make a world of difference.they did for me.kyb shocks are stiff and junk.monroes are mushy.
 
6 bars are holding up at least #100 more up front and the old bars are probably sprung anyway. Get yourself some V8 bars. Put a piece of gum on the bumpstop and go for a ride. see if the gum is smashed when your done. The shocks DO NOT support the front in any way.
 
pishta said:
6 bars are holding up at least #100 more up front and the old bars are probably sprung anyway. Get yourself some V8 bars. Put a piece of gum on the bumpstop and go for a ride. see if the gum is smashed when your done. The shocks DO NOT support the front in any way.
Click to expand...

Yes, shock don't support. But the slow the compression and extension movement down. They are a time deal.

They will slow down the suspension before it has time to hit the bumpstops (to a degree, not absolute)
 
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