SMOOTHER RIDE?

-
before you spend any money, do the loosen, reset height, retighten the front suspension. It doesn't cost you a thing, if you do one thing at a time, then you'll know what the problem was.
 
I can pretty much guarantee you're bottoming the suspension out over every single bump. That's why it rides like a train car going down the tracks, because just like a train car you've got no suspension at all when you're bottomed out.

You could raise the car up with the torsion bar adjusters to test this theory a little bit, but even at stock ride height you'll still bottom out those /6 bars. Maybe less frequently. Problem is that if you raise the suspension substantially with the torsion bar adjusters you'll throw your alignment out of wack too, so, it won't handle right anyway unless you also get a new alignment. And then after all that you'll still find out that you need new torsion bars, so, you'll be doing another alignment after you install those.

As for the larger bars making the car stiffer, yes and no. Yes, they will make the ride stiffer. But, the problem you're having with the car isn't stiff torsion bars, it's a bottomed out suspension. Your current bars are so soft they're not doing anything, and you're riding around on the bump stops. Stiffer bars will keep the car off the bumps stops, so you'll actually be using your suspension.

I'd be inclined to say you should go up to at least a .89", if not a .92" torsion bar. Usually I don't recommend anything less than 1" anymore, but it sounds like you've got a very stock car, so those would probably be more of a change than you want.
 
72bluNblu said:
I can pretty much guarantee you're bottoming the suspension out over every single bump. That's why it rides like a train car going down the tracks, because just like a train car you've got no suspension at all when you're bottomed out.

You could raise the car up with the torsion bar adjusters to test this theory a little bit, but even at stock ride height you'll still bottom out those /6 bars. Maybe less frequently. Problem is that if you raise the suspension substantially with the torsion bar adjusters you'll throw your alignment out of wack too, so, it won't handle right anyway unless you also get a new alignment. And then after all that you'll still find out that you need new torsion bars, so, you'll be doing another alignment after you install those.

As for the larger bars making the car stiffer, yes and no. Yes, they will make the ride stiffer. But, the problem you're having with the car isn't stiff torsion bars, it's a bottomed out suspension. Your current bars are so soft they're not doing anything, and you're riding around on the bump stops. Stiffer bars will keep the car off the bumps stops, so you'll actually be using your suspension.

I'd be inclined to say you should go up to at least a .89", if not a .92" torsion bar. Usually I don't recommend anything less than 1" anymore, but it sounds like you've got a very stock car, so those would probably be more of a change than you want.
Click to expand...
I have sl6 bars in my 340 car and it does not bottom out.
 
rustycowll69 said:
I have sl6 bars in my 340 car and it does not bottom out.
Click to expand...

If you say so. But honestly the only way that’s really possible is if your car is higher than the stock ride height.

The stock bump stops were designed to be progressive, that’s why they’re triangular. You can be getting into to the lower bump stops on compression without even realizing it a lot of the time. They were actually designed to be used as part of the suspension to some extent. Maybe not on a cruise around the block, but do some spirited driving or hit some decent sized bumps and you’ll hit the bump stops with all factory equipment and ride height settings. With a V8 and /6 bars you’re getting into the bump stops unless it’s really high in the front. There just isn’t enough wheel rate with /6 bars to stop it from happening even at the factory ride height.

But don’t believe me, go put a dab of grease on the top of the LCA bump stops and go for a drive that has some pot holes and bumps, or throw it into some corners. I bet you’ll be surprised.
 
72bluNblu said:
If you say so. But honestly the only way that’s really possible is if your car is higher than the stock ride height.

The stock bump stops were designed to be progressive, that’s why they’re triangular. You can be getting into to the lower bump stops on compression without even realizing it a lot of the time. They were actually designed to be used as part of the suspension to some extent. Maybe not on a cruise around the block, but do some spirited driving or hit some decent sized bumps and you’ll hit the bump stops with all factory equipment and ride height settings. With a V8 and /6 bars you’re getting into the bump stops unless it’s really high in the front. There just isn’t enough wheel rate with /6 bars to stop it from happening even at the factory ride height.

But don’t believe me, go put a dab of grease on the top of the LCA bump stops and go for a drive that has some pot holes and bumps, or throw it into some corners. I bet you’ll be surprised.
Click to expand...
I haven't driven the car in some time, so checking it with grease on the bump stop would take a pretty concerted effort. It is not jacked up in the front at all, if anything it might be a tad low. As far as "spirited driving" my neighbors and my wife probably think that's putting it mildly. LOL.
I still think he's got the bushings wound up like a clock spring, hence the poor ride. But he has a lot of other things working against a smooth ride, old shocks, old bias ply tires , etc. So it's pick your poison.
I agree that bigger torsion bars are a better choice for his app. My 340 car had 383 t-bars in it, until a friend of mine broke my right t-bar doing a "favor for me." Long story, some other time.
 
I am going to loosen all the front end bolts and retighten, raise the ride height a little, and buy new front shocks. Then we will see how it rides.
 
good call....While you have the wrenches out, you might want to loosen the rear u bolts and torque to spec. I think it is 45 lbs. New rear shocks will only help.
 
I would suspect you are sitting on the lower control arm bumpers. That provides a pretty harsh ride.
 
Loosened all bolts and retightened, turned torsion bars up a little. Does not bottom out anymore, a lot better ride. Will still replace shocks and tires, but ride is a lot better now that I am on the suspension. Thanks for all the comments and help.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top