Solid lifter information wanted

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Krooser said:
The only reason to bush the lifter bores is to keep the lifter oil band covered when you run a high lift camshaft.

I don't know what that lift is.... but if you are running a street cam you may not need to do it.

I know all about budget constraints.... I'm retired but working 60 hours per week to fund my racing and to try to maintain a somewhat normal lifestyle. (Believe me I'm not a spendthrift... I live in an old dump that takes $$$ to maintain!).

You can find good, used lifters. You can tube the block yourself. If you are on FB Jody Cash has a page called " Mopar mafia" and he had a couple videos on the procedure.
Click to expand...

The other reason to bush the lifter bores is to correct the lifter bank angles.

It’s not too big a deal with SFT’s but with a roller lifter and aggressive lobes it becomes much more important to correct them.

Locally it’s about 300 bucks to correct the lifter bank angles, and then it’s 15 bucks or so each for the bushings.
 
with a roller why not bore for larger lifters unless you also have an oil band problem?
and sometimes lifter bores are just plain wore out
Ever have a customer who has a FT cam with .015 margin on the intake side and almost 0 on the close and then someone puts in chamfered lifters? same effect almost with bad lifter bores
 
The lifter bores on the block are in excellent shape. The problem is oil bypassing the oil band of the lifters with a solid roller cam. I have the Direct Connection racing manual with all of the diagrams & instructions. I'm going to take the block, the tubing, the peening tool & the manual to a machinist that is highly recommended in the Mopar community in Texas to have the passenger side sleeved.
 
Did you try reaching out to a few companies to see if they would repair the one bad lifter even if they did not make it originally?
 
There is a thread that I started about info on solid lifters & no one recognizes the lifters so I'm back to square one.
 
Chet himself sold me my "stage 2" cam for my 318. "Whose the guy in the wheelchair? DOH! His shop was a mile from Disneyland. Whole shop was wheelchair accessible, wooden ramps everywhere.
Are the axles presses in? Bushed or roller bearing? May be able to snag a roller and axle out of a different roller and press it in.
 
These should cure any leakage around the oil band issues:

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PRH said:
These should cure any leakage around the oil band issues:

View attachment 1715554455
Click to expand...


They still leak. Tube it and be done. I’m not sure why the tube is such a big deal. Just like it’s now all the rage to use SF lifters with the hole in them. Never seen a need for it, but the tube is a big deal.

If you want to run pushrod oiling (can’t think of a single reason to do it) you can still tube the block. Just drill a .040 or so hole in the tube where it breaks through the lifter bore and restrict the drivers side with a set screw and a .125 hole.
 
and for the drilled for pressure lube to the rollers
Except for very early when we also used the crossover I never used the tube, but then bushings were DIY
I disagree with YR
when we had to run stock rockers the oil through the pushrods seemed to help
perhaps due to the cooling
lifter bores worn on 50 year old blocks? they were not perfect when new
Magnums seem to be better
 
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