Solid valve adjustment-273

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Roadcuda

Roadcuda

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I have a '64 273 2 bbl and I have two question with solid lifters. I checked my '65 Service manual and an old Chiltons with no good answers. I have just done a rebuild and am having trouble getting one side adjusted. First, in the pic are two different push rods that I have. The bottom one is the style in the car now with a small bulb at the lifter end. The one without the bulb is an 1/8" shorter. Does it matter which style is in the car, and should there be any space adjusted into the lifter arm and valve? The '65 SM shows .013 on the intake and .021 on exhaust, but doesn't say if that's for hydraulic or solid lifter. And if I adjust for solids lifters how is that done?

Thanks

Steve
 

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Looks like someone mixed in some different pushrods. The oem solid pushrods should be 7.5". The manual spec for adjustment is correct and for solid lifters. 65 273's never had hydraulics.
 
There are various ways to set valve lash. Some claim "running." I never do

There's a handy chart for setting Mopar valve lash:



and you can buy them in the form of a decal

What you do is, you mark your front balancer every 90 degrees. This is easy if you measure around it with a tape to get the circumference, then divide it up

I don't use that, either. I use what's called EOIC

This means Exhaust Opening, Intake Closing

You get the engine fully warmed up.......if the spec you have is for hot or warm engine

You get everything ready, your tools, feelers, and pull one valve cover. Just run right down front to rear

What you do is, you bump the engine until the EXHAUST just starts to OPEN and you set the intake on that cylinder

Then you bump the engine until the INTAKE has opened and is nearly CLOSED and you set the exhaust on that cylinder

The advantage of EOIC is that it works on any engine from a single Briggs to a V16, and you don't have to find a chart

I use two feelers, one for the "spec" and one about .002" larger. When the 'spec' feeler fits, and the .002 larger does not, you are very close.
 
As TMM stated, a 1965 273 never had hydraulic lifters, on your push rods, you want them all the same length, if they aren't, it's just trouble down the road. Be certain they are the same length and the CORRECT length.

For setting lash, you can get and use the chart 67Dart273 posted, or you use the intake open, exhaust closed method on each cylinder, that is: the intake is just opening, the exhaust is closed on the base circle of the cam, then you do exhaust just opening, intake closed. You will want to feel a light drag of your feeler gauge blade between the rocker and the valve stem as you set lash.

Good luck.
 
4spdragtop said:
When we put new solid lifters in Dads 67 273 4bbl we set intake and exhaust to .020
Click to expand...

Sure, it should work fine. I think my Isky E-4 spec is .015/.015. Factory spec is tighter on the intake side. The intake valve runs cooler and doesn't expand and close the gap as much as the exhaust side does.
 
Thanks guys. I'm not sure when I'll get back to it again but I'll let you know how it goes.
 
toolmanmike said:
Looks like someone mixed in some different pushrods. The oem solid pushrods should be 7.5". The manual spec for adjustment is correct and for solid lifters. 65 273's never had hydraulics.
Click to expand...
No, those in the engine are all the same length, I just asking which ones should be in there.
 
On the intakes I would adj em cold till a .014" feeler gauge has a slight drag and a .012" blade has no drag. On the exhaust: a .022" gauge has a slight gauge and a .020" blade has no drag. No sure which pushrods are the right ones but I would mockup both with the clearance set & you'd want the ones that let you have ~1&1/2 threads showing below the rocker. I hand crank the dampener bolt with a 1&1/4" socket/breaker bar till the dist rotor is at a particular cyls' plug wire and adj that cyls' rockers then bump to the next one
 
someone mixed in aftermarket hyd. lifter pushrods they are about 3/8 inch shorter then solids maybe.
 
Update! I finally got to do the work on my car. Took all of your advise and after several attempts I got it right and it's running nice and quiet now. Thanks for your help guys.
 
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