sledger46
Well-Known Member
Glad you got it sorted out. I dodged the whole issue by using retrofit, hydraulic roller lifters (with a roller cam) which were taller then the standard flat tappet.
SOLVED: HORRIBLE annoying engine tick after heads and cam. Need help!!
- Thread starter 93dakman!
- Start date
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What are my options when it comes to retrofit lifters. Id love to go that route. I have a custom ground lunati roller cam sitting new in the box in my garage. (I decided it was too small for my 408 and had a new one ground and the head remachined). I really dont want to pay $16 per lifter through. Is there a way to run magnum lifters, or is the bore to short.
sledger46
Well-Known Member
You have to pony up for aftermarket reto roller lifters with the oil hole on the lifter much lower on the lifter body. I went with the Hughes roller lifters and one thing I learned is they like a LOT of preload. .060-.080".
dakman. i'm having a similar tick issue, but i installed EQ magnum heads on my 360. are your magnum heads stock?
i read your description of the casting flash and my heads dont have that halfway down the hole like yours did. my EQ heads look like they've been cut away in that area.
i read your description of the casting flash and my heads dont have that halfway down the hole like yours did. my EQ heads look like they've been cut away in that area.
I did use stock 1995 magnum heads from a 5.9l. Being a different design head (the eq's) you still may need to check for pushrod clearance. There is still a nasty angle that the pushrod will be making using those heads on an LA block with the AMC lifters. However, I have never held a set of eq heads, yet I would believe that the manufacturer would have addressed an issue in that area. If I was you I would pull all 16 pushrods out one at a time and look them over real close about half way down for indicators of wear. There may be very little signs if the rods are hardened. You could also look at the tip ends that go into the lifter cup. There could be wear in that area. I however would not rule out these possibilities:
Pushrods are too short due to different head design and or thicker head gasket and or too short of lifter when you went to the AMC lifters, or any combination of this.
An exhaust leak from around any of the primaries or a manifold gasket leak.
A collapsed lifter or a blockage in the lifter oil galley that is stopping oil from pumping up the lifter....do all 16 rockers have oil drizzling out of them?
Too long of pushrods or lifters....interference internally, I would greatly doubt that this is the problem.
Wiped out cam lobe.
Sloppy timing set.
Interference between your rocker arms and the retainers.
Interference between your retainers and the guides or seals???
I hope its just an exhaust leak....
Pushrods are too short due to different head design and or thicker head gasket and or too short of lifter when you went to the AMC lifters, or any combination of this.
An exhaust leak from around any of the primaries or a manifold gasket leak.
A collapsed lifter or a blockage in the lifter oil galley that is stopping oil from pumping up the lifter....do all 16 rockers have oil drizzling out of them?
Too long of pushrods or lifters....interference internally, I would greatly doubt that this is the problem.
Wiped out cam lobe.
Sloppy timing set.
Interference between your rocker arms and the retainers.
Interference between your retainers and the guides or seals???
I hope its just an exhaust leak....
i've checked for exhaust leak. thats not it. i believe my issue is coming from bad valve train geometry and using "used" stock rocker arms. i'll be checking the geometry as soon as my new roller rockers show up.
i really believed we had the same problem. my stock rockers are beat up which makes me think i have a short pushrod or oiling issue. so i was just curious about if you used stock heads or not (i found no wear or weird spots on my pushrods). i'll double check the lube system and geometry as soon as the new rockers show up. short block was all new. timing gear/chain and all. cam is a .480 lift including the lift from 1:1.6 rocker ratio.
tick was only slight on first start up but slowly got worse after 1500 miles. which is why i think its a rocker wear issue. thanks for all the info. i'll definitely check everything out that you mentioned, before i destroy the new rocker arms.
i really believed we had the same problem. my stock rockers are beat up which makes me think i have a short pushrod or oiling issue. so i was just curious about if you used stock heads or not (i found no wear or weird spots on my pushrods). i'll double check the lube system and geometry as soon as the new rockers show up. short block was all new. timing gear/chain and all. cam is a .480 lift including the lift from 1:1.6 rocker ratio.
tick was only slight on first start up but slowly got worse after 1500 miles. which is why i think its a rocker wear issue. thanks for all the info. i'll definitely check everything out that you mentioned, before i destroy the new rocker arms.
sledger46
Well-Known Member
Did you use the hollow pushrods with the magnum heads? Did you use the AMC/oil thru the pushrod lifters? Did you assemble the heads with beehive type factory springs or did you use standard (LA 360) style springs and retainers? Check and make sure the rockers aren't brushing up against the retainers/springs as they go through their motion.
Does the tick change with engine temperature or engine loading?
Does the tick change with engine temperature or engine loading?
The newest tick shows up under slight throttle from a stop then goes away. And the tick gets less under heavy engine load. Oil pressure is good, even at idle.
I used EQ magnum heads and the springs were stock (for those heads). A friend checked spring pressure and clearances with the lift of the cam so thats good.
I need to check lifter preload too, make sure thats correct. after installing the heads i did measure for pushrods and got ford boss 302 7.650" long pushrods. thats incuding .030 for the lifter preload.
But yes i used hollow push rods and the jeep 4.0L lifters
I used EQ magnum heads and the springs were stock (for those heads). A friend checked spring pressure and clearances with the lift of the cam so thats good.
I need to check lifter preload too, make sure thats correct. after installing the heads i did measure for pushrods and got ford boss 302 7.650" long pushrods. thats incuding .030 for the lifter preload.
But yes i used hollow push rods and the jeep 4.0L lifters
just to update. i got my new rockers and i dropped a pedestal while installing them. couldnt find it any where so i'm going to take the intake off tomorrow to make sure its not in the engine.
while shining a flash light looking for it, i saw a few marks in the pushrod hole that matches some marks on the pushrods. so i'll be dremeling out the push rod holes. pretty sure that's what caused the wear in the original rockers. so you were right, EQ heads are not set up for an LA block install either. thanks for the thread and the knowledge by the way.
while shining a flash light looking for it, i saw a few marks in the pushrod hole that matches some marks on the pushrods. so i'll be dremeling out the push rod holes. pretty sure that's what caused the wear in the original rockers. so you were right, EQ heads are not set up for an LA block install either. thanks for the thread and the knowledge by the way.
Gotta learn somewhere, best of luck.
67 gt
A Wog boy who loves his Mopars !
I haven't had any issues with my EQs with the pushrods rubbing up against any casting but i do run a solid and Crane guide plates.Dont know if it has any thing to do with that or just been lucky on the clearance side of things.
sledger46
Well-Known Member
Something to think about...are the pushrods you are using 3/8" versus 5/16" diameter? If the pushrods have a bigger diameter I can see possible interference problems cropping up.
I seem to remember Magnum pushrods being 5/16" and Boss Ford pushrods being 3/8".
To me the magnum valve train has always "seemed" noisier then the LA shaft mount setup.
I seem to remember Magnum pushrods being 5/16" and Boss Ford pushrods being 3/8".
To me the magnum valve train has always "seemed" noisier then the LA shaft mount setup.
just to update, i used ford boss 302 7.605.....not 7.650 pushrods. i wiped several cam lobes. pretty sure the stock springs were to blame. went ahead and installed new lifters and cam. used the same push rods......and yeah, it was the pushrod length and not the springs. tick showed up again so i bought some 7.650 rods and installed them. tick is still there but not getting worse.
gonna buy those hughes roller lifters and a roller cam. came back to this thread to get an idea of what length pushrods were used for those huges roller lifters since i saw someone in this thread used them.
gonna buy those hughes roller lifters and a roller cam. came back to this thread to get an idea of what length pushrods were used for those huges roller lifters since i saw someone in this thread used them.
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