Speedmaster heads part 2. Plus intake work

-
99E6BA7B-D8E0-4ED6-8FEE-E28D61BD9750.png
130CD3D4-9BED-475F-AC48-44853F4AD636.png
Ok small update. It is very hard to sneak in my flex camera in a dual plane and take pictures of port alignment. I could see it as what I would call fair on the port I checked for both being out of the box. Here’s a couple of pictures I could take. Not exactly what you desire but easily fixed you can see the beginning of the pushrod hump.
 
031C10F0-40F6-47D0-B91B-C3A9AFE2DB21.jpeg
CB02C967-B350-47C0-9FFF-D3C20DB88606.jpeg
21632B09-1694-40E3-B2B5-6DF6D28D8ECA.jpeg
FECE6108-CE20-474A-BA90-706BEF24F0B6.jpeg
16412D7C-8137-447F-94F9-2CBBCFB21D37.jpeg
Ok then I removed the Speedmaster intake and threw on the ugly Torquer intake that came on the 340 he will be using. This thing is ugly enough to scare the wet out of water but the numbers are slightly better than the Speedmaster. In all fairness someone radius blended the top of the plenum which had to help. The runners aren’t touched. I took a few pictures to show that. I updated yesterday’s sheet so the Torquer Intake numbers are on the fair right column for comparison. I haven’t worked with small runners like this in quite awhile. Usually I use red shop rags to block off the other runners when flow testing. These runners are so small I cut some of my old white socks in three pieces and it was still tight getting one in a port.
 
E411D6B2-20A3-4A42-9A90-8904B6185544.jpeg
ECAE8006-3999-4132-B3B6-26C5D37CB417.jpeg
69656E07-92AF-4F36-A6F3-DA3C579391E3.jpeg
3FB63AFD-1587-4B99-AE14-736D77ADF5D1.jpeg
Ok guys back to porting work. I usually don’t go about it this way but I wanted to show you how much I push the pushrod pinch wall back the whole way to the bowl not just at “the pinch”. Look at these pictures then in the next post how it should be. Doing this really affects how wide we can make the Short side. Keep in mind at this point just past the pinch the roof is slooping down, the floor is slooping up, and the common wall is slooping in. We need area.
 
AC8CB5CF-7D8A-4C9B-BC01-496994A1C02B.jpeg
2B83A541-C51C-437C-8A02-ECA510790F56.jpeg
FFC6CB67-EC0D-4121-86A6-BB31A1ECF976.jpeg
0B7FCCDA-BAFB-494A-AA16-31681881B03E.jpeg
I don’t know why I don’t see guys turning their head in every position when porting. I love standing it on its end to shape this wall. It always gives me a better angle of how far I gotta go. Look how big our entry into the bowl is getting and I didn’t really touch the roof or floor yet. Back to work.
 
Last edited:
I'm waiting patiently to see the bowl work in the exhaust side, that set, just like the set I have here, have a very pronounced throat cut, and it's quite abrupt where it stops..
 
I'm waiting patiently to see the bowl work in the exhaust side, that set, just like the set I have here, have a very pronounced throat cut, and it's quite abrupt where it stops..

This head was very quiet to start with and with a little shaping had fantastic air speed numbers. I decided last year I wasn’t even going to touch their valve job on the exhaust side. I didn’t want to mess anything up. Lol.
 
What rocker arms are you planning on using? And do you plan on correcting the geometry on your own or entrusting that to others?
 
What rocker arms are you planning on using? And do you plan on correcting the geometry on your own or entrusting that to others?


He got a set of stock Mopar adjustable ones on the 340 he bought. From what I heard they work out pretty good on a small performance hydraulic cam.
 
B9B71006-40B1-4D69-91C3-941A123DA406.jpeg
E67AC93E-2C16-4EDC-9188-3E65F414D9F0.jpeg
E8386CF2-9F95-45EA-9F35-397225CDEAD5.jpeg
C9D6E288-E54E-406B-9F2C-6638FF93C351.jpeg
26B86864-3543-4378-8FAE-6A3BF165D4B2.jpeg
Not a lot to show but I have made some progress. By now I know Edelbrock, Speedmaster heads pretty well so instead of grinding on one port, flow testing, grinding some more, testing I went ahead and finished all the pushrod pinch and head bolt hump removal on this whole head. Here’s a few pictures and a few of the short turn which is nice but small from the factory. You can see that just by removing the headbolt hump and pushing the pushrod wall over the whole way to the bowl the short side is also forming. I’ve done zero shaping of it so far. All I do is I hit every part of the port from the entry to the bowl with a burr to remove the factory casting. I will also remove any bad casting work in the bowl and shape the casting around the valve guide. I do the whole port because when I place my 15.00 Walmart lights in various places the whole port shines and lights up better than the factory casting that is dull. While I’m grinding one port I sometimes see something even on another port that I missed. I’m out of my favorite Edelbrock intake Gaskets so I opened the entrance up some but it looks like I have about .015-.025 to go and will finish that up next week when they come from Summit.
 
How big is the intake runner size when done the heads look great


Honestly I couldn’t tell you as I rarely pour them. If I like the air speed I see and flow numbers that’s all I need. These are only 2.02 valves and planned cam is .510 or under. I did pour my best set of 2.08 heads I’ve ever done and They were 194 cc intake runner and flowed 318 cfm. I have a post on a set I moved the pushrod over on but they aren’t done yet. I will be pouring rubber molds on them when they are done and I will be starting the 2021 race season with that engine. I have the shortblock already built.
 
Ok not much progress but I upgraded from an iPhone 6 to a 12 and wanted to check out my camera. Got a buddy coming over tomorrow to check flow number for a big block edelbrock victor heads so I gotta switch my flow bench over from small block head adapter to big block. I hope they don’t suck the paint off my walls. Lol.
A0714B36-34C7-4F15-B638-53CC6AB177E0.jpeg
E3D35187-DD08-4AE1-9ECE-52D514810134.jpeg
9FA1E83F-3E75-4FBB-B528-E0B087BEFB54.jpeg
76C444F1-B862-4C2D-8A2C-CCEDFF6BE95E.jpeg
 
I would love to hear the numbers you get on the victor big blocks. Ootb, or ported? (Reading the small block thread to learn things, but i have a set of the big block max victors).
 
I would love to hear the numbers you get on the victor big blocks. Ootb, or ported? (Reading the small block thread to learn things, but i have a set of the big block max victors).


They are ported and I’m pretty sure he did them himself. He has a beautiful 9 second duster. I’ll try to get some car pictures and shout be posted here tomorrow.
 
I would love to hear the numbers you get on the victor big blocks. Ootb, or ported? (Reading the small block thread to learn things, but i have a set of the big block max victors).


Rather than post this here I started a post on the Victor heads in the big block area. Really impressed with that head and his work.
 
Ok finally back on my stuff. Not a lot of progress today but my intake gaskets arrived from Summit and I’m a buff job with a sanding roll to have the intake face of the head matched up to my gasket. Just a quick picture of a stock head and one on my sons head that I pushed both wall over. Take a look at how much more area the short turn has. Just wanted you to see a side by side before I start shape it. Going to try to hit it hard tomorrow.
CB2CFF08-2B37-4AAC-B78E-9014BFAFDFAC.jpeg
FDAC906C-B2FB-4984-B8C9-20E7BFBA905C.jpeg
 
I like the missing head bolt boss.

anything I can do for area saving me from having to cut the short side down any is good in my eyes. This heads don’t have much to start with. At least it gives you something to shape.
 
anything I can do for area saving me from having to cut the short side down any is good in my eyes. This heads don’t have much to start with. At least it gives you something to shape.
That move makes a very nice stable port slowing the air down around the S/T.
 
Ok guys excuse the subject change here but my intakes are almost where I’m satisfied with them on Ethans heads and I want to be able to flow the exhaust side to when I throw it on my flowbench so here we go. I probably get more PM messages on the exhaust side than anything but then again I’ve posted less pictures of that side. I get what do you mean by bell shaped, what valve angles do you like, how do you increase airspeed (which I go by more than flow numbers on the exhaust side, etc, etc. first off there is of course more water on this side for cooling, and closer too. Darren Morgan drove into our heads at his theory classes aim for a quiet port but at the same time a fast one. Target for a minimum of 325fps. To do this we shape and widen the bowl which then allows use to widen the badly needed short turn. Push the short turn towards the port exit so it’s not crowding the valve seat. Slightly lay down and radius the short turn and blend into the bowl. Open the exit to the sizing of your header and blend. A lot of times I don’t reread these long posts and fix issues so please excuse that.
 
-
Back
Top