speedometer cable removal

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prodart340

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ok,so I need to ask the correct way to remove the cable from the rear of the dash cluster in a 74 swinger,,,,,,thanks in advance, mike
 
Hard to describe. You reach up behind the dash and pinch the cable connector where it enters the speedo. There's a hook that keeps it connected and when squeezed correctly, releases it. You could also pull the cluster out a ways so you can see what you're doing.
 
That keeper is best described as 1/2 of a wooden clothes pin. Cable housing being the other half. Yall taking notes ? LOL Happy Holidays
 
Taking notes.
Looks like I gotta replace the one in the 71 swinger, it's sometimes makes a terrible oscillating noise around 50 mph.
 
Taking notes.
Looks like I gotta replace the one in the 71 swinger, it's sometimes makes a terrible oscillating noise around 50 mph.

If you disconnect it at the speedo and get it sticking out under the dash you can grab the drive end with a needle nose plier and pull the cable out.
I use white lithium grease and my fingers to lube it up going back in. Here's the thing though... the housing turns a nearly 90 degree bend under the drivers seat. The cable wears completely through the housing right there eventually. Anyway the cable is difficult to push through around that corner with greasy fingers. It takes only a minute to disconnect it from trans and straighten it out a little. The collecter nut at trans end needs to be little more that finger tight.
 

In most models there is just one screw holding the fuse box in place. I remove that so fuse box moves, push the little button to remove head light switch knob and stem, then remove headlight switch bezel so the switch will move too. Of course I had to remove neg' battery cable so lights on doesn't drain battery. Anyway...That extra bit of work gives me ample space to get my left arm/hand up in there to the back of the speedometer.
The downside is not being able to clean the instruments input port without pulling the inst' panel. Short of pulling the inst panel the best you can do is route the cable up to the instrument as straight as possible. Bias forces from the cable is what kills the these instruments. Good luck
 
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