spot weld cutter?

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thanks for the info. O reilly ( o really) can order one, 2 day delivery, $31 plus tax ! ha
the one on feebay comes out of hongkong, be here by Jan 6 at the latest!!!

I wonder why I ask why sometimes!!???Ha

thanks for the info. I probably have one some where in a tool box!!
 
In a mill / drill machine one would run a cutting oil or water based coolant on the tool and set a feed rate that takes the heat away with the chips. The end effect is extended tool life. This aint easy to do with hand tools. Good luck with it.
 
I used the Blair cutter with the spring-loaded center point. It looks like a mini woodworking hole cutter. Circular with teeth along the cutting edge.

Locate the spot welds, (sometimes using a light grinding pass or roloc scotch-brite pad), center punch the center of the weld, drill using the punch mark as a locator, stop drilling when you are through the top layer of metal, separate layers with whatever works best for you, chisel, old screwdriver, etc.

best to have extra cutters and center point on hand, depending on how many welds you are cutting. I used it to replace my floors and front clip on my 69. several hundred welds. personally, I wouldn't use anything else.
 
I admit to doing my stuff somewhat crude. like floor pans i cut off with cut off wheel, get it where I can get a sharp chisel under the old pan where its spot welded to the subframe, after off, I grind down the subframe.
I have some rear frame repair to do and will be easier to cut out some spot welds with the "tool"! luckily just a small number of welds! luckily I just work on my stuff and NOT a real resto guy!!!!! ha
 
KosmicKuda said:
I used the Blair cutter with the spring-loaded center point. It looks like a mini woodworking hole cutter. Circular with teeth along the cutting edge.

Locate the spot welds, (sometimes using a light grinding pass or roloc scotch-brite pad), center punch the center of the weld, drill using the punch mark as a locator, stop drilling when you are through the top layer of metal, separate layers with whatever works best for you, chisel, old screwdriver, etc.

best to have extra cutters and center point on hand, depending on how many welds you are cutting. I used it to replace my floors and front clip on my 69. several hundred welds. personally, I wouldn't use anything else.
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The Blair is the Shizzit !! Works great !!
 
When I removed sheet metal affixed to thicker metal, like the trunk floor to the frame rails. I used pneumatic chisel. Otherwise, I used a spot weld cutter.
 
The 7 buck HF demands a stout center punch or better a small pilot hole.
 
barbee6043 said:
who would you guys recommend for a quality and affordable spot weld drill/cutter ????
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I don't know if you have looked at my 66 dart thread , But after using one of the "good " expensive $35-50 Blair cutters and waiting forever on the tips to be shipped to me,after about 50 or so cuts(yes I used lubricating oil to help cutting and heat). I swapped over to the dreaded harbor freight junk. I did use 4 bits and some trans fluid as cutting oil plus both sides of the bits taking my car apart. but in harbor freights defense they cost about $7.99 and I still can use the last one. the others need new cutters and 1 needs a spring loaded tip so it was easier to just get another one.
I hit the metal with a flap disk and center punched each spot-weld to keep both the Blair and the HF tools in the center, I did approx 500+ spot welds(I quit counting after doing the inner and outer cowl,apillars and drivers inner fender.) from front inner fenders all the way back to the rear tail panel. I think the only panels I didn't use the cutters on was the passengers inner fender,trunk lid and the radiator core support. so IMO if your only going to cut a couple hundred or so I'd go with the harbor freight. Of course the Blair cutters did come in a week after I got 90% of the car apart.
 
thanks for the input. like I said, not having to do huge area. yes I had an air chisel decades back, before the wife (X) convinced me to get rid of ALL my stuff! ha ( wow I miss her!) I used the heck out of that air chisel.

basically got the rear stuff off with the cold chisel and hammer, cut off wheel.

figure I will do same up front where I have to patch the subframe just east and west of T bars!

90 mi trip to H F.
 
paraffin as in candle wax works very well as a cutting lube. just get the tool hot enough to melt the wax and touch it to an old candle. continue hitting the candle between cuts and best yet its NON TOXIC.
 
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