spring relocation and mini tub.

[mattsmopars]

Hello to every one.I don't post much,i usually just surf the used parts for sale and pick up a few things here and there.I am restoring a 67 dart 270.I am planning on moving the spring in with the relocation kit,then doing a mini tub.I was wondering if i need to go ahead and cut my axle housing down or if its better not to?I was thinking that i will have to cut one down some to keep from running lots of back spacing.I would also like to run cal trac bars as well.Any help and or pictures would be great help to me.Thanks, Matt

 

[crackedback]

PM me an e-mail. I have a mini tub powerpoint presentation that someone else did. Pretty good deal. I have some picture of my latest job on a my Duster. Shoot me a phone number too! I'll be happy to answer any question you may have.

Construction paper/Poster board. Get some to make templates. Makes the job tons easier. Office depot, office max, hobby story

One thing I would do is make a good template of the tub curvature prior to cutting anything out. This way you can trim the stock floor/trunk pan tight to the tub and not have big patch panels.

Draw 3 lines (12, 10 and 2 o'clock postions) on the vertical sections of the tub and onto the floor pans to keep them aligned once they are out. Makes it much easier to re-align them once removed.

When cutting the frame rail flange off, cut the floor pan/flange in sections, one at a time between the spot welds. This keeps the entire floor pan edge from springing up and out of control. Cut the frame lip off between the welds, tap the floor down, clamp it, tack it back in place. It will take less time than cutting the entire rail lip off because you won't be fighting the pan/frame rail joint the entire length.

I just did one side of my Duster. Stock a-body 8 3/4 rear, had 7" to the inner well before, 10" afterwards. For me to put a 15x10 wheel on would require about 8" of backspace. Would look like a stock wheel from the side. I'm going to cut down a B body housing. If you are going to cut down a housing... GET THE WHEELS/TIRES YOU WANT TO RUN FIRST! Get them centered in the well after tubbing and measure for your housing width. I like to have the wheel centered over the width, 10" wheel gets roughly 5-5.5" of backspace.

It pretty easy if you take your time and think through what you are doing.

 

[EP87]

PM me an e-mail. I have a mini tub powerpoint presentation that someone else did. Pretty good deal. I have some picture of my latest job on a my Duster. Shoot me a phone number too! I'll be happy to answer any question you may have.

Construction paper/Poster board. Get some to make templates. Makes the job tons easier. Office depot, office max, hobby story

One thing I would do is make a good template of the tub curvature prior to cutting anything out. This way you can trim the stock floor/trunk pan tight to the tub and not have big patch panels.

Draw 3 lines (12, 10 and 2 o'clock postions) on the vertical sections of the tub and onto the floor pans to keep them aligned once they are out. Makes it much easier to re-align them once removed.

When cutting the frame rail flange off, cut the floor pan/flange in sections, one at a time between the spot welds. This keeps the entire floor pan edge from springing up and out of control. Cut the frame lip off between the welds, tap the floor down, clamp it, tack it back in place. It will take less time than cutting the entire rail lip off because you won't be fighting the pan/frame rail joint the entire length.

I just did one side of my Duster. Stock a-body 8 3/4 rear, had 7" to the inner well before, 10" afterwards. For me to put a 15x10 wheel on would require about 8" of backspace. Would look like a stock wheel from the side. I'm going to cut down a B body housing. If you are going to cut down a housing... GET THE WHEELS/TIRES YOU WANT TO RUN FIRST! Get them centered in the well after tubbing and measure for your housing width. I like to have the wheel centered over the width, 10" wheel gets roughly 5-5.5" of backspace.

It pretty easy if you take your time and think through what you are doing.

Crackedback I'm getting ready to do the mini tub/ spring relocation thing on my 70 Duster and the frame flange was one think I wasn't sure about.
So your saying to cut the floor and flange back to the rail between the spot welds, tack them together then cut the rest of the lip and floor off to the rail and then weld the entire lenght? Which sounds like a good plan, I just want to make sure I understand.

I'm going to PM you for that powerpoint if you don't mind. Thanks Richard

 

[cudaspaz]

Here's a couple pics of my 67 cuda with stock A body rear anmd mini tubes, spring relo.
I've got 7.5 inch backspace.

Some guys don't like the deep backspace but I think it's looks pretty cool especially when you see the wheel from the side, then walk around to the back and go...... Damn!!

 

[EP87]

Here's a couple pics of my 67 cuda with stock A body rear anmd mini tubes, spring relo.
I've got 7.5 inch backspace.

Some guys don't like the deep backspace but I think it's looks pretty cool especially when you see the wheel from the side, then walk around to the back and go...... Damn!!

That is one trick looking cuda. Love the color.
Did you narrow the rear at all? I wouldn't mind going with that much back space
if I didn't have to narrow it just mini tub and relocate the springs.

 

[ocdart]

PM me an e-mail. I have a mini tub powerpoint presentation that someone else did. Pretty good deal. I have some picture of my latest job on a my Duster. Shoot me a phone number too! I'll be happy to answer any question you may have.

Construction paper/Poster board. Get some to make templates. Makes the job tons easier. Office depot, office max, hobby story

One thing I would do is make a good template of the tub curvature prior to cutting anything out. This way you can trim the stock floor/trunk pan tight to the tub and not have big patch panels.

Draw 3 lines (12, 10 and 2 o'clock postions) on the vertical sections of the tub and onto the floor pans to keep them aligned once they are out. Makes it much easier to re-align them once removed.

When cutting the frame rail flange off, cut the floor pan/flange in sections, one at a time between the spot welds. This keeps the entire floor pan edge from springing up and out of control. Cut the frame lip off between the welds, tap the floor down, clamp it, tack it back in place. It will take less time than cutting the entire rail lip off because you won't be fighting the pan/frame rail joint the entire length.

I just did one side of my Duster. Stock a-body 8 3/4 rear, had 7" to the inner well before, 10" afterwards. For me to put a 15x10 wheel on would require about 8" of backspace. Would look like a stock wheel from the side. I'm going to cut down a B body housing. If you are going to cut down a housing... GET THE WHEELS/TIRES YOU WANT TO RUN FIRST! Get them centered in the well after tubbing and measure for your housing width. I like to have the wheel centered over the width, 10" wheel gets roughly 5-5.5" of backspace.

It pretty easy if you take your time and think through what you are doing.

Hey Crackedback - I jumped on the bandwagon and PM'd you re the Minitub PowerPoint presentation. Thanks in advance!!!

 

[crackedback]

I sent the PP presentation to everyone that requested it via PM or E-mail.

If you haven't received it, I'll be happy to resend it.

Rob

 

[mattsmopars]

Thank you crackedblock for the power point. I did get it to open with microsoft power point.It's great to have something like that to go back to.One other question when it comes time to put the band between the inner and outer wheelhouse should i use a new piece,or should i use a piece out of a parts car's inner whellhouse?Also thanks everyone for the great info and help.Matt

 

[AdamR]

Just use some scrap metal for the band. No need to find another tub to cut.

Heres the extra room I made when i did my Barracuda. It had a 275-60s on it with 4-7/8" backspacing. You gain about 3" so with a stock width rear 7.5" backspacing works best.

 

[crackedback]

Thank you crackedblock for the power point. I did get it to open with microsoft power point.It's great to have something like that to go back to.One other question when it comes time to put the band between the inner and outer wheelhouse should i use a new piece,or should i use a piece out of a parts car's inner whellhouse?Also thanks everyone for the great info and help.Matt

Glad you got it open.

For the fill piece, don't try to use another wheel tub section. I used old nasty A-body door skins. They are just about long enough to use one complete piece. I prefer to do it in 3 pieces. It's tough to get one panel to line up with all the cuts you may have. Plus I didn't overlap the end pieces, they are butt welded. If you have an oxy/acet torch anneal the metal to make it easier to work with. The panels I have a off a car that was BBQ'd, easier to form. Before you cut the tub in half, you can get the rear, hard angle bend done, by using the current tub as form.

DO NOT mess with the rear seat attachment tabs or seat belt mount area. Cut around it so it remains in the stock location.

Here's the front and rear of the Duster I just did. You can see where I ended the main tub, just below the sheetmetal screw on the front and right after the bend down in the rear. Then I made the remaining patches.
Front:

Rear:

On the tub templates for cutting the floor/trunk pans. Pay close attention to the rise/drop transitions of the pan in relation to where it was attached to the tub. The rear part has a step down moving towards the vehicle centerline. You may be able to trim more material away than the template will show. Try to sneak up on the trimming, don't do too much... DAMHIK. LOL

Good luck to everyone and I'll do what I can to assist with answers.