Stand recommendations.

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Vamisk

Vamisk

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This is how far $60 got me with Harbor Fright. Does anyone know of a preferred stand that can actually keep its chin up to a B/RB?
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I bought an HD one from Summit many years ago and it had a good lean to it with a B/RB on it. It did have 4 legs with casters, so it was a less nerve wracking, but I was careful when rotating the motor around. Handles an LA much better
 
I used the same one on my RB did not even come close to that lean, bring it back. Still was a bit nerve wracking.
 
HF stuff is cheap. (to buy and built) The metal they use is undersized and soft. If you need a 750# capacity you better get a 1500 or 2000# capacity to get the job done. Parts store stuff is better depending on manufacturer. Tool truck stuff is better but quite expensive.
 
A welder and 20 bucks or less worth of steel will turn a cheap HF stand into as strong as you will ever need
 
toolmanmike said:
I wonder what bent. The arms or the plate?
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Nothing bent it's just pulling down on the whole stand because the arms have no way to reach the upper bellhousing bolts no matter how I mess with it. It's an Rv 440 with six pack rods so it's a little heavier then normal but surely it's nowhere near the load limit.
 
Vamisk said:
Nothing bent it's just pulling down on the whole stand because the arms have no way to reach the upper bellhousing bolts no matter how I mess with it. It's an Rv 440 with six pack rods so it's a little heavier then normal but surely it's nowhere near the load limit.
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I see. You need to re position the arms. They always need to bolt to the top bolts on both sides. The center of the pivot tube needs to be centered and just above the crank centerline for good balance.
 
toolmanmike said:
View attachment 1715189668 I see. You need to re position the arms. They always need to bolt to the top bolts on both sides. The center of the pivot tube needs to be centered and just above the crank centerline for good balance.
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Unfortunately repositioning the arms into a position to reach the top bolts is simply not possible, I might get one arm in a top bolt but then two others have nowhere to hang because they cant reach anywhere else. I feel like this stand was made for a small block Chevy.
 
Vamisk said:
Unfortunately repositioning the arms into a position to reach the top bolts is simply not possible, I might get one arm in a top bolt but then two others have nowhere to hang because they cant reach anywhere else. I feel like this stand was made for a small block Chevy.
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True that.
 
Did you try to flip the plate with the arms 180? Think I had to and add washers.
 
If you mean flip it so that the horizontal slots are on the bottom/top yes I did. I've seen pictures of people successfully mount a B/RB but i cant seem to work it out.
 
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Been a few years remember it was a pia for some reason. I do remember I took the head off the stand and mounted it to the engine then put it back in the stand.
 
Think all four arms were facing up like in that other picture
 
halifaxhops said:
Been a few years remember it was a pia for some reason. I do remember I took the head off the stand and mounted it to the engine then put it back in the stand.
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That's what I like about those stands. My gear head doesn't come off. You have to line it up hanging from the chain.
 
That's a good idea, I'll try that when I get a chance, it's going to be easier then trying to man handle a dangling engine around.
 
Think I had to add washers on the block side of the bolts to get it to clear the crank also.
 
Vamisk said:
Nothing bent it's just pulling down on the whole stand because the arms have no way to reach the upper bellhousing bolts no matter how I mess with it. It's an Rv 440 with six pack rods so it's a little heavier then normal but surely it's nowhere near the load limit.
Click to expand...

I have a couple and had to drill holes way out on the plate to get to the lower bell bolts
 
I bought a Lakewood stand 30 years ago and it has handled small block mopar, small block ford to Hemi's.
 
toolmanmike said:
HF stuff is cheap. (to buy and built) The metal they use is undersized and soft. If you need a 750# capacity you better get a 1500 or 2000# capacity to get the job done. Parts store stuff is better depending on manufacturer. Tool truck stuff is better but quite expensive.
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That's what I did (bought the heavier stand even though I only use it for small blocks)
Nice and stable.
 
This worked for me (not a HF unit), would have been nice to lower the engine some more. I have seen people use the arm as a spacer and not an extension by using one bolt not two. I think I may try that next time.
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Alan
 
halifaxhops said:
Been a few years remember it was a pia for some reason. I do remember I took the head off the stand and mounted it to the engine then put it back in the stand.
Click to expand...
Okay fellers looks like I've been riding the short bus this whole time
20180621_083131.jpg
 
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