Starter Problem and a few others

[roaddevil]

Hey guys, first things first:

I'm working with a Blueprint 408 Stroker Engine, paired with a B&M 10632 Flexplate and a Boss Hog Night Stalker 122-tooth converter. This setup connects to a 904 TF non-lockup transmission, which is driven by a 90s-style 10-tooth Durango/Ram mini starter.

To make the starter fit, I had to grind down a small hump on the oil galley. After that, the starter fit perfectly without any tension.

So far, everything should be set up correctly—right?

The problem:​

The engine feels really hard to turn over by hand, at least in my opinion. Today, I tried starting it again. At first, it sounded completely normal but then suddenly stopped running—maybe an idle or timing issue?

I attempted to start it again, and this time, I heard a horrible noise, as if something was blocking the engine. I initially suspected a starter issue, and sure enough, the second starter broke as well. So yeah, this happens the second time :-(

I've never been able to get the engine to run properly.

Any ideas on what could be causing this?

---

 

[Plymouth 65]

Too much initial timing can cause the engine to kick back and break the nose off the starter, just like your pictures. 65

 

[Kendog 170]

Happened to me when installing dizzy. Buy this and repair it. Real easy to do. Hope you figure it out.
NOSE CONE FRAME for MINI STARTER MOPAR DODGE PLYMOUTH (HOUSING only for repair) | eBay

 

[roaddevil]

okay lets see, i get another starter tomorrtow.

 

[Bobzilla]

The problem:​

The engine feels really hard to turn over by hand, at least in my opinion.

Let's clarify this statement a little before you replace the starter or nose cone part of the starter. Do you mean turning it over with a ratchet or breaker bar at the front on the crank bolt? If so, have you done this before with other engines, for comparison or experience? By hand with all the spark plugs installed you are fighting the compression stroke of the cylinders.

Just want to make sure before trying again. I do agree with the other posts that radically advance timing at the distributor is a likely cause, as long as nothing else is binding up, like a transmission converter not fully seated into the transmission before transmission installation.

 

[roaddevil]

Let's clarify this statement a little before you replace the starter or nose cone part of the starter. Do you mean turning it over with a ratchet or breaker bar at the front on the crank bolt? If so, have you done this before with other engines, for comparison or experience? By hand with all the spark plugs installed you are fighting the compression stroke of the cylinders.

Just want to make sure before trying again. I do agree with the other posts that radically advance timing at the distributor is a likely cause, as long as nothing else is binding up, like a transmission converter not fully seated into the transmission before transmission installation.

i took the plugs out and still think it is heavy to turn (yes on the crank bolt ), at least i can turn it over without something blocks. Lets see. I give it one more try before i take the new installed engine out and dissasemble it :-(

 

[Bobzilla]

i took the plugs out and still think it is heavy to turn (yes on the crank bolt ), at least i can turn it over without something blocks. Lets see. I give it one more try before i take the new installed engine out and dissasemble it :-(

Don't jump to disassembly right away.

Do you remember when you installed the transmission onto the engine, did the torque converter turn freely by hand when you went to install the bolts securing the flex pate to the torque converter?

Did you have to pull the torque toward the engine about an 1/8" to a 1/4" to get the bolts in?

 

[roaddevil]

Don't jump to disassembly right away.

Do you remember when you installed the transmission onto the engine, did the torque converter turn freely by hand when you went to install the bolts securing the flex pate to the torque converter?

Did you have to pull the torque toward the engine about an 1/8" to a 1/4" to get the bolts in?

yes i guess i had to pull the torque converter towards the Engine.