Starter solenoid issues

[g413]

I’m the guy that ran my battery down to zero on my 64 Sport Fury with a 318 poly. As someone pointed out, Battery Tenders will not charge a battery that is completely discharged. So, the store recharged it and since then I have been disconnecting one terminal.

About 6 weeks later, I connect the battery and try to start it and I hear one click, which I’m sure was the start relay. I could not get a second click and the headlights would not work. I took the battery back again, but they said it was okay.

I reconnect the battery and headlights work. This time, I put a remote start switch directly from the red wire at the start relay, to the wire going to the solenoid. I pressed the button and get a spark at the positive battery terminal! I did not expect that. Again, the lights do not work. I disconnect and reconnect the battery, and the lights work again.

If I just touch the solenoid with 12 volts, it is like a circuit breaker trips the whole electrical system. Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery resets it. Does this make any sense?

Does it seem like I have a short in my solenoid?

 

[plymouth4onthefloor]

i highly recommend to do measures with a voltmeter under load, ask a buddy with experience. Dont make your car to a new parts grave! There is a connection problem, maybe with the batt terminals.

 

[plymouth4onthefloor]

if there is a terminal really hot, you have a voltage drop from a bad connection

 

[halifaxhops]

Some thing is loose at the terminal that is getting the spark at.

 

[RedFish]

Sounds like poor connections at battery terminals to me also.

 

[g413]

That spark at the positive terminal was freaky. I'm 98% my connections were tight, and I did jiggle the connection to see if the terminal was mushy in the battery. Just a week ago the store said the battery was good, but I'm not sure if they tested it under load.

 

[67Dart273]

I have seen clamps and battery posts that looked so clean you could eat off them and they would NOT LIGHT THE DOME LAMP

Get a battery post cleaner and clean them up.

 

[Inertia]

Clean the battery terminals AND the contact area inside the cable ends.
If the ends are after-market type that traps the wire, take the wire outta the end and clean and dress the wire, and its corresponding contact area on the clamp .
That should do it.
Cheers

General PDP Template

www.canadiantire.ca

 

[Oldmanmopar]

Clean the terminals . Cable to terminal and terminal to battery, Positive and Negative. Your problem will be solved.

 

[RedFish]

I have seen clamps and battery posts that looked so clean you could eat off them and they would NOT LIGHT THE DOME LAMP

Get a battery post cleaner and clean them up.

Just days ago, my junior opened a new package of the red and black painted replacement post terminals. Only parts/areas not painted was hardware and cross strap. One would think the hash marked cavity where wire lays would have been left bare. I never cared for those chunks of lead anyway, but... leave to the Chinaman to make bad worse.

 

[Cuda Al]

Check for parasitic drain.


Alan

 

[g413]

I will get around to cleaning these terminals this weekend. Thanks for all the suggestions.

I still have this old box with battery maintenance parts. The box is over 50 years old and stuff inside was last used on my 68 Roadrunner.

The amazing thing is that I knew right where this box was.

 

[g413]

I got around to the car this weekend. I cleaned the battery posts and the terminal connectors. I even wire brushed the ground connection on the engine. I was also going to brush the stranded wires where they attach to the connectors. When I went to loosen up the bolts on the positive terminal, they were already loose -- same on the negative terminal. I could have probably unscrewed them with my hand. I’m sure that contributed to my problems.

At that time, I made a decision to put on new terminal connectors as the existing ones were old and cruddy looking. I put a battery disconnect switch on the negative terminal just to help in case I have a parasitic leak. I’ll work on that later.

Solenoid and starter worked just fine and the engine started after 10 seconds. When I can fix a problem in less than one hour, I’m very happy.

I want to thank all you for pointing me in right direction.

 

[Inertia]

Glad you got it repaired, - you can stroke the wire strands with a wire brush to make better contact.
I think near 80%+ of my "no-start" service calls over 30+ years, was poor battery connection from lack of attention, or lights left on.
Good job .

 

[67Dart273]

I've used those clamp on repair terminals and while they do work "for awhile," they are a PITA. On the other hand I HAVE ALSO SEEN corrosion start and migrate into a cable on the factory made clamps and so back in under the insulation, where the cable can appear normal, the cable wire is compromised. The big clue to this is usually sparks, smoke, and heat.