Steel or composite intake gasket

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ValiantOne

ValiantOne

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I've been doing a gasket kit resealing of my motor which is a 68 273.

My Fel Pro kit came with both steel and a composite intake gasket. The existing gaskets were steel. Do I have to use the steel ones when re assembling?

If so how in the heck does the water crossover seal? Does steel on steel do it? Or is some goop in order?

If not is there any reason to go with the composite? Mo' betta? Worse? Indifferent?

I've done a few intakes but never one with steel on steel like this. Just want to do it right!

Thanks,

CE
 
You certainly wouldn't use the steel if you were installing a different aluminum intake.
I don't use the steel at all. You will need sealant at 4 corner water ports.
 
Thin steel gaskets can sometimes be harder to get to seal. I would tend towards the composite if it is a steel core with a plastic coating.
 
You can use whichever gasket that you think you can get to seal better....
 
When using stock intake, I use steel gaskets. It worked when Ma Mopar built them.
 
They (whoever they are) say you should only use the steel gaskets when using cast manifolds.
I just ran a small bead of RTV right inside the dimpled area around the coolant and intake ports both and it's been solid for years. (with an aluminum intake)

The composite gaskets sometimes make it hard to get the bolts started.
 
TrailBeast said:
They (whoever they are) say you should only use the steel gaskets when using cast manifolds.
I just ran a small bead of RTV right inside the dimpled area around the coolant and intake ports both and it's been solid for years. (with an aluminum intake)

The composite gaskets sometimes make it hard to get the bolts started.
Click to expand...

Thank you. I think I'll try that with the rtv.
 
Anyone know what the half moon shaped port just above the exhaust crossover is?

The exhaust crossovers are CRUSTY! I chipped away most of it in the manifold. Will it hurt if the stuff in the heads falls down inside when I am chipping at it? (intake runners have been plugged with rags to keep out the crap)
 
That crud will work it way into the oil pan and the really small bits can get past the screen on the oil pickup. The first place they go is right into the oil pump; so any tiny rust bits can potentially damage your oil pump. Put something in the valley to catch it, and clean it all out.

I believe the u-shaped thingie is just an expansion relief in the head to help keep the heads from cracking in that area with the high temps of the exhaust gases flowing through.
 
nm9stheham said:
That crud will work it way into the oil pan and the really small bits can get past the screen on the oil pickup. The first place they go is right into the oil pump; so any tiny rust bits can potentially damage your oil pump. Put something in the valley to catch it, and clean it all out.

I believe the u-shaped thingie is just an expansion relief in the head to help keep the heads from cracking in that area with the high temps of the exhaust gases flowing through.
Click to expand...

I didn't think the crossover passages had any access to the crankcase??

Thanks

Oh I just re read that. I didn't mean let it fall in the valley! I meant if it falls back down the crossover tube/port. I thought it would just come out of the exhaust manifold.

Thanks
 
Did you remove the plate from bottom of intake to clean it all ? 2 rivets are spiral fluted, ( Drivet ) meaning counter clockwise turn with a small punch and hammer will back them out.
 
ValiantOne said:
Oh I just re read that. I didn't mean let it fall in the valley! I meant if it falls back down the crossover tube/port. I thought it would just come out of the exhaust manifold.Thanks
Click to expand...
OK... I figured since the intake was off, going into the valley was the issue... LOL
 
if one of the 2 exhaust valves that feed the crossover is open the carbon could go into the cylinder-rotate engine to make those 2 valves closed-and use a vacuum cleaner
 
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