808-dartGT
Well-Known Member
Is there any specific tricks or procedures to follow to adjust slack in a steering box ( no power) on 1964 Dart GT 225 ? Thank you!
I didn’t even think about that ... this forum is awesome! You guys make my work so much easier! Thank you!Go slow. Take your time. Steering boxes with a lot of miles often wear more in the center. That means if you adjust it perfect with the wheel in the center it might bind up near the ends.
How would you check with inch-pound torque wrench?Yup, what Mike69 said. Sometimes they wear in a way that makes it nearly impossible to adjust. The FSM way is to check the torque it takes with an inch-pounds torque wrench to rotate. I'd say go about an 1/8 turn at a time, check for binding in the box after adjustment w the wheels off the ground. Note the adjustment where you started, track the # of turns.
How would you check with inch-pound torque wrench?
You do that with raised car?The way I do it is loosen the pitman adjustment way up, the nut and screw on top so there is a lot of play in the steering wheel. Then loosen the big nut on the input shaft coming from the steering wheel. tighten that till it feels a little stiff that way there is no play in the worm screw. Tighten it up turn it to make sure there is no binding. Then tighten the pitman shaft up (make sure it is centered) till there is very little play and drive it if it doesn't center it self loosen it up a little.
I don’t have one, what kind of resistance should I look for?You have to take the horn button off, and put it on the nut holding the steering wheel, IIRC. Do you have a Factory Service Manual?
Normally no I don't think it really makes a difference, what makes the difference is the wear in the box, if it's worn bad it wont handle good, if the pitman shaft binds up on center it's just as bad as having a lot of play. There's a fine line to get it to handle good.You do that with raised car?
You do that with raised car?
It’s not listedYou may find a free download here. If your specific car is not listed you could use a close model.
MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals
now I wonder if I should buy new box instead...If you're going to remove the metering valve to, say, replace the o-rings you'll need to have the front end off the ground to adjust it when tightening it down. Just a couple thousandths of an inch off will send the wheels to full stop quickly!!
It’s not listed
now I wonder if I should buy new box instead...
Thank you very much for the link, I was not aware of adjusting meshThere are two adjustments that have to be done correctly and in the correct order. See here.
If you're going to remove the metering valve to, say, replace the o-rings you'll need to have the front end off the ground to adjust it when tightening it down. Just a couple thousandths of an inch off will send the wheels to full stop quickly!!
There are two adjustments that have to be done correctly and in the correct order. See here.
Your talking power box he's talking manual box ! Big difference.
I fried to loosen up big nut on a input shaft, it wouldn’t budge, is there better tools than punch an a hammer?I'm talking any box, he's talking any box! No difference! Same two adjustments, made the same way, in the same order.
I’ll spray some and leave it overnightYes—the official spanner as shown in the FSM.
But I'd keep on trying with a hammer and punch, maybe after cleaning up the threads and applying some good penetrant on both sides of the lockring.
How do you account for the added friction of the steering column bearings? I always took the FSM inch / lb torque to turn specifications to be with the torque arm directly on the steering box input shaft.You have to take the horn button off, and put it on the nut holding the steering wheel, IIRC. Do you have a Factory Service Manual?