Steering Column Rebuild

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I got the whole switch with new wiring from Van's. I think I paid $146 + shipping. My wiring was all cobbled up. Switch works great. Amazing how a simple function can make your driving so much more enjoyable.
 
Good luck on getting those spade connectors released from the old plastic plugs. I see the design and procedure to get the clips released, but I am 0 for 4 on these in the engine compartment. Seems the ones I want to replace are melted or fused into the plastic sockets. Even cutting them out proved they were stuck to the plastic with no clip retention. Maybe interior clips are less likely to "fuse".

Errata: There are no "Packard 56" Spade connectors on my 65 column, but they are the square style that has a sort folded over male pin. Thy all came out of the cavity easily with a slender jewelers screwdriver. How does the metal shaft come out of the bearing after the circlip is removed? Disregard..hammer time! ;-)
 
OK, going back together..Im stumped. What holds the cast bearing case to the smooth column? I see the square headed bolts and they dont secure anything, they just pass through the cast case? Seems if I bolt everything back up, I could pull the steering shaft right out of the column with bearing retainer attached if it wasnt secured to the steering box.
 
OK, going back together..Im stumped. What holds the cast bearing case to the smooth column? I see the square headed bolts and they dont secure anything, they just pass through the cast case? Seems if I bolt everything back up, I could pull the steering shaft right out of the column with bearing retainer attached if it wasnt secured to the steering box.
Those square headed bolts are what hold it together. You have to back them off quite a ways and then slip the housing onto the tube. Get it oriented correctly and when you tighten the nuts for the square bolts, they wedge themselves into the corresponding slots in the tube.
 
What kind of grease do you pack in the steering coupler?
 
Those square headed bolts are what hold it together. You have to back them off quite a ways and then slip the housing onto the tube. Get it oriented correctly and when you tighten the nuts for the square bolts, they wedge themselves into the corresponding slots in the tube.
cudamark, Thanks for answering this question. I thought I did, but my response apparently disappeared in cyberspace. As I recall, the square headed bolts have one side a bit longer (look closely). That is the side that fits in the slots in the column tube. They don't actually wedge, but more tilt outward into the slots as you tighten the nuts.

pishta,
I didn't mean that the factory steering connector for a 65 was a "56 terminal" type. That was just one I bought as a possible replacement. I ended up getting the correct connector (below), which is similar to a Ford "mini-term" type (but don't know the name or find them anywhere). Most of our cars use the 56 terminals, which are more standard. They are found on most GM 60's cars, and even current appliances like washing machines (at least 1,2, or 3 pins), plus standard spade connectors sometimes fit. To release the male pins, squeeze along the long side, focusing on the bottom (curved needle-nose pliers help), while wiggling the connector. New-style male pins usually have a side latch. The bulkhead male pins are often melted into the housing, especially later models that routed the 12 awg ammeter wires thru the pins (stupid design, B-bodies didn't). Sorry to digress, but I am working on that now, redesigning my engine harness.
 
Figured out those square heads. Got it back together to find my custom shaft is too long! Hahaha, back to the sawzall! Oh yeah, is there a retaining nut on the back of the turn signal cam bolt? Mine doesnt want to auto-cancel, seems too stiff after I lubed it too?
 
Thanks for resurrecting this. I learned more in 5 years. The pins on the early turn signal switch connector are termed "twin-lock". They were also used on Fords. The connector later changed, perhaps when they put the key switch in the steering column (1971?). You might find the twin-lock connectors on motor-homes thru the 1980's. They seemed to use up old stock in those and full-size vans.
 
The plastic wire coupler that mate the wiring harness to the column wiring is available at classic industries.
 
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