BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
I took apart the steering column on my 65 Dart to paint and lube. Hope the photos and details help.
Mine is a floor shift automatic, so the column is simple. Also, not collapsible like later Darts (69+?). The column tube is exactly 30"L. The steering rod is a solid 3/4"D rod, 36-3/16"L. A single ball bearing fits in a rubber ring that sits in a recess in the aluminum column head. The bearing is 19 mmID x 30 mmOD x 6 mmW.
I pressed the coupler pin out (shop press), but you may not need to since the bearing is held by a snap ring on each side. It is pressed on, but a screwdriver and hammer on the inner race will drive it off the shaft.
The inside of my tube had surface rust (did factory even paint it?). I cleaned it with a wire brush on a drill extension and sprayed rust converter primer and black enamel. I sprayed the outside with epoxy enamel ("appliance paint"). The end of my column was open. I understand there should be a plastic shield there. I cut a washer out of polycarbonate and set it w/ RTV to block air flow from the engine compartment thru the tube.
The tube presses into the head and is secured with two special square-head bolts. You must orient the heads so the long side fits in the tube's slots. The tapered cone is held tight by sheet metal screws. My shift lever was a bit corroded, but Scotchbrite and steel wool made it shiny. I sprayed clear laquer to ward off rust.
I used a coupler rebuild kit and ended up tearing the rubber seal when trying secure the coupler cover fingers. I used red silicone tape and RTV to seal it. Works, but a Frankenstein look. I recall that stupid coupler cover was always popping off on my 69 Dart. Not a slick design.
Finally, the connector was missing from the wire harness. Too many people don't know you can easily release the pins with a small screwdriver. No need to cut wires. If same as my Newport, it should be a 10 position housing for the 7 wires. Extra pins must be for options like cruise control. I searched for the connector, but nothing. A 74 Duster in JY had totally different connector. If I can't do better, I'll use the 8-positon connector and pins shown. That is a "Packard 56 Series Terminal" type used in the firewall connector and many other places in 60's Mopar and GM cars. The correct connector pins are shown in the photo (turn signal from 69 Dart). It looks like perhaps a "Metripak 630" type, but no idea where to buy. I hate having to crimp the wrong pins on. See http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/AutomotiveElectricalConnectors.htm
Mine is a floor shift automatic, so the column is simple. Also, not collapsible like later Darts (69+?). The column tube is exactly 30"L. The steering rod is a solid 3/4"D rod, 36-3/16"L. A single ball bearing fits in a rubber ring that sits in a recess in the aluminum column head. The bearing is 19 mmID x 30 mmOD x 6 mmW.
I pressed the coupler pin out (shop press), but you may not need to since the bearing is held by a snap ring on each side. It is pressed on, but a screwdriver and hammer on the inner race will drive it off the shaft.
The inside of my tube had surface rust (did factory even paint it?). I cleaned it with a wire brush on a drill extension and sprayed rust converter primer and black enamel. I sprayed the outside with epoxy enamel ("appliance paint"). The end of my column was open. I understand there should be a plastic shield there. I cut a washer out of polycarbonate and set it w/ RTV to block air flow from the engine compartment thru the tube.
The tube presses into the head and is secured with two special square-head bolts. You must orient the heads so the long side fits in the tube's slots. The tapered cone is held tight by sheet metal screws. My shift lever was a bit corroded, but Scotchbrite and steel wool made it shiny. I sprayed clear laquer to ward off rust.
I used a coupler rebuild kit and ended up tearing the rubber seal when trying secure the coupler cover fingers. I used red silicone tape and RTV to seal it. Works, but a Frankenstein look. I recall that stupid coupler cover was always popping off on my 69 Dart. Not a slick design.
Finally, the connector was missing from the wire harness. Too many people don't know you can easily release the pins with a small screwdriver. No need to cut wires. If same as my Newport, it should be a 10 position housing for the 7 wires. Extra pins must be for options like cruise control. I searched for the connector, but nothing. A 74 Duster in JY had totally different connector. If I can't do better, I'll use the 8-positon connector and pins shown. That is a "Packard 56 Series Terminal" type used in the firewall connector and many other places in 60's Mopar and GM cars. The correct connector pins are shown in the photo (turn signal from 69 Dart). It looks like perhaps a "Metripak 630" type, but no idea where to buy. I hate having to crimp the wrong pins on. See http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/AutomotiveElectricalConnectors.htm
