steering column rebuild

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moparfanatic56

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I am in the process of trying to refurbish my steering column but have an issue getting the shaft out. Unfortunately I do not have a manual but i have watched a couple of videos. My question is does the pin on the lower end of the shaft come out if so how. I tried putting a socket over one side and putting in a vise to press it out but it did not seem to budge and I did not want to mushroom it. Also does the pinwheel shaped part on the upper end come off also and are there any complete rebuild kits available. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
Let’s start by telling us what year column your working on
 
yea that would probably help. It is a 72 dart that was originally a auto on the column but previous owner put in a floor shifter and used the original column. He did remove the column shift cover and replaced it with a floor shift cover. I am going to put a 4 sp in it.
 
Yes that pin comes out. I remove mine just as you described it. But I have a very large vise. It’s in there tight. Just rebuilt this 72 Duster column.

0A9FEF1B-03B7-4EF8-A028-EF9D3EA07E0E.jpeg
 
On the pin at the coupler end of the shaft there’s no need to remove it unless it’s worn or damaged. The lock plate wheel can be removed by removing the pin then the shaft will come out the bottom end of the column tube. There is a service tool that will press the pin out for removal of the lock plate but would be hard to come by. You could beat the lower pin out like SGbarracuda stated and remove it from the top.
 
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cudascott said:
On the pin at the coupler end of the shaft there’s no need to remove it unless it’s worn or damaged. The lock plate wheel can be removed by removing the pin then the shaft will come out the bottom end of the column tube. There is a service tool that will press the pin out for removal or the lock plate but would be hard to come by. You could beat the lower pin out like SGbarracuda stated and remove it from the top.[/QUOTE
I looked for a pin on the locking wheel but did not see one but will look again.
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cudascott said:
On the pin at the coupler end of the shaft there’s no need to remove it unless it’s worn or damaged. The lock plate wheel can be removed by removing the pin then the shaft will come out the bottom end of the column tube. There is a service tool that will press the pin out for removal or the lock plate but would be hard to come by. You could beat the lower pin out like SGbarracuda stated and remove it from the top.
Click to expand...
Who said I beat the pin out Pal? Before you start talking **** about someone else you should have your facts straight! I’ve done my way for some 50 years! Without special tools.
 
No need to remove that pin, pop a couple clips and the column just about falls apart.

I even did mine with the coupler still attached (C-Body with heat shield)
2015-09-19_001.jpg



Alan
 
Someone should do a full tutorial on this, there are some weird wedge parts in some of them.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
Who said I beat the pin out Pal? Before you start talking **** about someone else you should have your facts straight! I’ve done my way for some 50 years! Without special tools.
Click to expand...

sounds like you need to chill pal! I wasn’t saying you
done anything wrong take your bull **** somewhere
else
 
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There is a video series posted on here, it's for E-bodies but it basically shows step by step how to rebuild column. To get the lock plate off, you have to pop that outer sleeve/cover off, and you will see the pin. You have to be careful not to collapse the shaft during the whole process...
 
I have to agree with dont remove the cross pin at the bottom unless its worn. If it must be replaced, find a press. you might drive the old one out with a big hammer but... getting the new one centered with that big hammer will not be easy ( been there done that ).
Wheel lock ring has a tapered pin through it but if you haven't removed the thin sheet metal cover, you dont see the pin. With the wheel centered straight ahead or master spline on top that pin drives out toward the drivers window or right to left. With that and upper bearing off, shaft will go out the bottom of the column. When you put it all back together, make sure that the master spline at wheel end is aligned with V notch in lower edge of box coupling.
 
Thanks to everyone especially plumkrazee70 for video links they were very informative and answered all of my questions.
 
So if your going to rebuild the coupler with a kit. How are you going replace the pin? How are you going to check it for wear without removing it? I’ve seen pins that look good until they are revived, then you can see the wear. I guess you can half *** the rebuild and put new coupler shoes on a old pin?
 
Is removing the pin at the bottom that big of a deal? I've always just used my trusty bench vise for removing and installing.
 
Thanks again to all. I did get it apart and all parts are at the powder coater. What is a good source for all of the internal parts bearing, washer, mounting inserts and such.
 
Detroit Muscle Tech' has a kit that covers some of it. Too many variations in lower bearings to include those.
 
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