steering connection problem

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dancinwulf

dancinwulf

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Ketchum Idaho
I took the steering wheel off to replace both the starter switch wiring and the turn signal wiring harness and now it appears that the steering shaft is to short. I had to tap on it with a hammer to get the bearing to release is it a two piece shaft what could I have done to make it an inch short now. If I put the coupling into the steering box connector there is not enough shaft left out to put the steering lock ring back on let alone the steering wheel. Please help
 
The column is a sliding two piece device with a molded plastic "filler" to hold it originally in place. This plastic fractures in an accident, allowing the column to collapse. You surely fractured those and shortened the shaft.

There is a lot of controversy "on here" about whether you can pull it back out and be safe.

"Would I" do that? Probably
 
I think the main issue is having the internal bits of the box coupling centered in the travel available there. You don't want that box coupling to come apart at any time. It's bottle cap crimped top is a pain in the arse. So,,, My plan would be to get the top end of the column correct with snap ring, etc.., then get the bottom portion of the shaft set to box couplings bottom. Unibody flex should push it away from the bottom eventually. Suggesting a little too low would be better than too high.
 
67Dart273 said:
The column is a sliding two piece device with a molded plastic "filler" to hold it originally in place. This plastic fractures in an accident, allowing the column to collapse. You surely fractured those and shortened the shaft.

There is a lot of controversy "on here" about whether you can pull it back out and be safe.

"Would I" do that? Probably
Click to expand...
 
Thanks I worked on it yesterday and locked up the top end at the steering wheel end and tapped it back apart. It took some tapping but it came back out. Thanks I appreciate the advice
 
RedFish said:
I think the main issue is having the internal bits of the box coupling centered in the travel available there. You don't want that box coupling to come apart at any time. It's bottle cap crimped top is a pain in the arse. So,,, My plan would be to get the top end of the column correct with snap ring, etc.., then get the bottom portion of the shaft set to box couplings bottom. Unibody flex should push it away from the bottom eventually. Suggesting a little too low would be better than too high.
Click to expand...
 
Yes I agree that is a pain in the butt for sure. I got it all put back together and it takes a little force to move it back out so I don think it will collapse to easily I have it well down in the coupling box
so I hope I won't have any problems. Thanks for the help
 
When the snap ring is in the groove, should be all good.
And for others following along here... The combination of steering wheel diameter and forces transferred to such a small diameter snap ring will generate a burr on the shaft at that groove.
The hammer tap is not the way past this. Instead, try to get just a tiny gap between snap ring and bearing race before removing the snap ring. If the shaft does move up through that bearing race you'll know it isn't frozen to the shaft. Next step, remove the snap ring. Next step, use a small hobby/jewelers file to remove said burr from ring groove. Next step, polishing/emery cloth will clean all of shaft surface. Bearing should slide on and off effortlessly whether brand new or 100 years old. This never was a press fit .
 
Well I was thinking more that the rubber sleeve and all, had been sucked up out of it's socket, by an incorrect parts association,and that pulled the entire shaft up, and then the bottom was too short. That's what I was thinking.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Well I was thinking more that the rubber sleeve and all, had been sucked up out of it's socket, by an incorrect parts association,and that pulled the entire shaft up, and then the bottom was too short. That's what I was thinking.
Click to expand...
Well it was about 3/4 of an inch short so I pulled it back out which took some tapping with a hammer to get it to move and then put everything back in and test drove it double checking afterwards to see that
it was still centered in the culling, all looked good so I drove it again today about 40 miles and everything was staying in place fine so since it is only a weekend driver I am going to run with it for the time being.
Thanks for all the input I appreciate it.
 
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