Steering Coupler Rebuild "How To"

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Cuda Al

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Cuda Al submitted a new Article:

Steering Coupler Rebuild "How To"

Since it regularly comes up I felt it was time to do a write-up on how to rebuild the steering coupler.

In my opinion the column needs to be removed from the car to properly rebuild the coupler.

For the purpose of this demonstration I'm working with a bare shaft as that is what I had available.
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Contents of the rebuild kit, the pin on the steering shave is good so I'm not replacing that (and this column isn't being used), not sure what the tiny pin is for and the roll pin is the one used in installing the column in the car.
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This assembly was still intact and took a little effort to pop the cover off. Once off I slid the shaft out and noted the orientation of the pieces, they were correct. Take a picture to remind you how they go.
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The grease in this one was bad and caked in gunk. Both the shaft and the couple were cleaned with brake cleaner.
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Now this is where the fun starts, as it comes out of the package the tabs on the cover are bent in the wrong direction.
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Using needle nose and lineman pliers all the tabs are bent the other way. About halfway down and to about a 45^ angle.
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The seal stretches enough to put it on over the pin on the shaft.
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For the purpose of the demonstration I use lithium grease as that is what I could find, typically I would use wheel bearing grease. I start by packing the housing most of the way up.
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then the shaft
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and the bits as they go on.
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slide the housing on fully and wipe off excess grease.
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Position the cover and clamp in place (enough to hold at first), you may to open the tabs a little to get the cover on fully.
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Once you are happy with the position start clamping them a little tighter, for the most part the cover will stay in place and you can repossession one of the clamps more over on corner and tighten it a lot. Start with the drift and punch the tabs into the housing.
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Only do the one corner, just the two tabs.
Then drive the tabs downView attachment 1715317428

Slide the clamp to the other corner and repeat.

Make sure to check the tabs as you go as to not pinch them.
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Once you have done one side the clamp isn't needed,
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Wipe it off and it is ready to install, no wire bail needed, this isn't coming apart!
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The key to this is prebending the tabs and clamping the assembly TIGHT.


Alan

Read more about this article here...
 
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The small pin goes in the top of the housing right below the seal. It keeps coupler from coming apart if the shaft pulled up.
 
The small pin goes in the top of the housing right below the seal. It keeps coupler from coming apart if the shaft pulled up.
Must have been something that was added later, the 67-69 columns I have done didn't have it.

Alan
 
Since I was working on a bare shaft I wasn't thinking about the orientation of the housing on the shaft.
The notch on the housing goes up, if your steering wheel isn't on yet, the master spline for the steering wheel is up.


Alan
 
Yes, the small pin may have been added in the later years. Now that you mention it I have seen them without it.
While were on the subject the finish on the coupler was bare steel, correct?
 
The notch is just above the splined hole.
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Alan
 
Great thread @Cuda Al

It's been moved to our "How To Articles" section. Thank You for the detailed write up...
 
For reference pg 21-8 1965 Plymouth service manual

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Thanks for the article. I'm going to rebuild my coupler. I ordered the parts from steer and gear, and I have removed the steering column. Is is necessary to remove the steering shaft from the column to rebuild the coupler?
 
Thanks everyone. Got the coupler cleaned up ready to reassemble with the new parts. Getting the new locking clamp on the new seal is a chore if you don't have four hands. None of the many clamps I have would fit on the coupler while I drove the tabs down. I was getting frustrated when the idea hit me to mount it up in the drill press. Worked like a champ!

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Hey Guys, Great info and forum...Thankyou !
I bought a 71 Demon about 1.5 years ago and not sure what is going on, but I have 2 of those steering couplers welded end2end to make up the distance needed from the end of the steering column to the manual steering box.
  • Also end of steering column shaft has what looks like a 1/4" drill thru hole that seems to serve no purpose.
  • Could this have been a power steering car converted to manual steering using the power steering column ?
  • If so what is needed to correct this? I have about a 6" gap between end of steering shaft and spline on manual steering box.

Thanks, Mike
 
Hey Guys, Great info and forum...Thankyou !
I bought a 71 Demon about 1.5 years ago and not sure what is going on, but I have 2 of those steering couplers welded end2end to make up the distance needed from the end of the steering column to the manual steering box.
  • Also end of steering column shaft has what looks like a 1/4" drill thru hole that seems to serve no purpose.
  • Could this have been a power steering car converted to manual steering using the power steering column ?
  • If so what is needed to correct this? I have about a 6" gap between end of steering shaft and spline on manual steering box.

Thanks, Mike
The steering shaft hole is for the pin that holds the shoes in coupler. Sounds like power steering to manual conversion was make on your car. There are companies that offer an extension for the shaft to steering gear.
 
The steering shaft hole is for the pin that holds the shoes in coupler. Sounds like power steering to manual conversion was make on your car. There are companies that offer an extension for the shaft to steering gear.

Hey, THANKS GSXcite for your response. Measured the length of the one coupler today and its about 3" long, the rough length of one of the aftermarket extensions from Summit Racing, Classic Industries etc, that you stated. my thought of the car having a power steering to manual conversion and your confirmation is appreciated ! Thanks for the help. Love this website! Take Care...
 
Hey, THANKS GSXcite for your response. Measured the length of the one coupler today and its about 3" long, the rough length of one of the aftermarket extensions from Summit Racing, Classic Industries etc, that you stated. my thought of the car having a power steering to manual conversion and your confirmation is appreciated ! Thanks for the help. Love this website! Take Care...
Glad to help. Don't know about the ones from classic or summit, but I know others are available that are specific to your application so you can use the proper coupler. Perhaps others will chime in with the name of the company, might be steer and gear .
 
great article Alan.
Can someone please confirm if a 65 Barracuda with power steering can use the later rebuild kits? Are the shoes the same size and does it require the spring? When we took my dad's coupler apart, there was no spring on the shoes.
thanks,
Karl
 
great article Alan.
Can someone please confirm if a 65 Barracuda with power steering can use the later rebuild kits? Are the shoes the same size and does it require the spring? When we took my dad's coupler apart, there was no spring on the shoes.
thanks,
Karl
Looking at the parts boot it appears the 65 is different that 67, not sure what the differences are, didn't see the spring in the 65 parts book.


Alan
 
Looking at the parts boot it appears the 65 is different that 67, not sure what the differences are, didn't see the spring in the 65 parts book.


Alan
Thank you Al.
the 65 exploded view does appear to show the spring.
 

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I don't bother with bending the tabs over very hard to get it right, instead I've been using this retainer
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Thank you Al.
the 65 exploded view does appear to show the spring.

It looks like the coupler in that diagram uses the two rectangular springs and shoes rather then the notched shoes and single spring. You have to be careful because some of those earlier couplers can't use many of the parts in the new coupler rebuild kits.
 
It looks like the coupler in that diagram uses the two rectangular springs and shoes rather then the notched shoes and single spring. You have to be careful because some of those earlier couplers can't use many of the parts in the new coupler rebuild kits.

100% agree, which is why I'm consulting the group who has expertise from doing it in the past.
I'm starting to think that the only good solution is to buy an aftermarket coupler for safety's sake if I can't purchase the correct rebuild kit and parts.
 
100% agree, which is why I'm consulting the group who has expertise from doing it in the past.
I'm starting to think that the only good solution is to buy an aftermarket coupler for safety's sake if I can't purchase the correct rebuild kit and parts.

You're in a similar boat I was in. My 66 Dart had the same coupler you're deadling with. Luckily, mine had the two rectangular springs and they were in good shape - as were the shoes and coupler body. I simply replaced the seal and installed a set screw to act as the small safety pin on later couplers.

Maybe try placing a wanted add for those two springs. Are the two shoes and body in decent shape?
 
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