Steering spins to lock at idle

[Conrad]

I put in a refurbed firm feel box, and when the wheels are off the ground and engine is idling, the wheel will spin all the way to lock. The mechnanic I took the car to for suspension work says its not supposed to do that - says the box is bad. I just wanted to make sure that diagnosis is right as I've never heard of this. He's a great mechanic, but a GM guy and not all that familiar with Mopars - so I wanted to verify this info.

 

[bcuda452]

is this a mopar style box p/s box? Ive had that happen on a couple of cars and the power valve on top of the box needs to be moved ever so slightly to neutral the box so as to eliminate the bias. What ever you do , do NOT take the bolts out for any reason..... normally a slightly loose bolts and tap with pliers

 

[TrailBeast]

There is a centering adjuster built into most power boxes.
On the factory box it's the side to side location of the little part the hose connects to with small bolts holding it on.

This part adjusted side to side.
Loosen it slightly and tap it side to side with the car running and you'll figure it out real quick.
Pretty surprized a mechanic doesn't know that.

 

[Conrad]

Awesome. Thanks for the information and pic!

This forum has a great feature (vBulletin) that shows related threads, but only after you post the message. That led me to discussions about 'self steering' and 'valve adjustment'. It was new to me but I see now that this is fairly common. If nothing else, at least can do that myself after the suspension parts are installed.

 

[6pk2goDemon]

When testing the adjustment of the valve, don't stick your arm thru the steering wheel spokes to start the car....

 

[AJ/FormS]

I usually do that with a helper and the wheels off the floor. The helper needs to have a FIRM grip on the wheel( no wifey). Depending on which way you tap it the steering wheel could go either way, and the helper has no idea which way it will go.
Oh yeah, engine at low idle. Watch out for hot headers.If you do it just right, it wont leak P/S fluid. Wrong and you may have a fire. Keep extinguisher handy. Maybe do outside. Can be done with wheels on floor.

 

[TrailBeast]

When testing the adjustment of the valve, don't stick your arm thru the steering wheel spokes to start the car....

We had a tractor that would do that when you hit a fair sized bump or small ditch.
That thing would break fingers if you didn't keep them on the outside of the steering wheel.
I also don't think I have ever seen a wheel turn so fast either.

 

[mderoy340]

Do it with the wheels off the ground. Adjust the block until the steering wheel does not move either way when starting engine.
If that's a new box from Firm Feel it should have been adjusted when they bench tested it. If it is new I would call them and tell them you have a problem and you want to adjust it. Letting them know might help if you have to return it.

 

[TrailBeast]

Yea, we probably almost can't stress enough to just slightly loosen those bolts or fluid can go everywhere.
Just guessing maybe a 1/4 turn or so at the most. (but not enough so you could move it by hand)

 

[Matto]

You should call firm feel if you have any issues, before you adjust anything and possibly void the warranty.

 

[Inertia]

There is a centering adjuster built into most power boxes.
On the factory box it's the side to side location of the little part the hose connects to with small bolts holding it on.

This part adjusted side to side.
Loosen it slightly and tap it side to side with the car running and you'll figure it out real quick.
Pretty surprized a mechanic doesn't know that.

Excuse me Trailbeast,,

The valve body you circled does in fact need to be tapped,, but to be clear,, it needs to be tapped forward or back...


If the vehicle pulls to the left,, the fitting needs to be tapped forward..
If the vehicle pulls to the right,, the fitting needs to be tapped rearward...

And as mentioned, don't loosen the bolts too much,, or let it hit either stop hard, or you may blow out an o-ring..

Personally, I prefer the front wheels off the ground..

Don't put your arm thru the wheel to start it,, serious injury could occur..

From FSManual..

Start engine. If unit is self-steering tap valve
up or down to correct. When tapping valve ""down,"
hit valve body on end plug. When tapping valve '"up,"
tap on head of screw attaching the valve body to
main valve body. Do not hit control valve body.
CAUTION: Do not turn hard against ends of travel.
This will generate high pressure and may blow out
the ""0rin gs since the valve body screws have not
been finally tightened.
(20) With steering wheel in straight ahead center
position, start and stop the engine several times, tapping
the valve body up or down as required until
there is no movement of the steering wheel when the
engine is both started or stopped.
(21) The valve is now centered. Tighten the two
screws attaching valve

hope it helps

 

[TrailBeast]

Excuse me Trailbeast,,

The valve body you circled does in fact need to be tapped,, but to be clear,, it needs to be tapped forward or back...

Details, details, sorry about that.

 

[gdrill]

Well. Thanx again FABO. I dug up another old thread, albeit too late, and learned a little about power steering. I assembled my big block Coronet a while ago, but never hooked up the power steering. I wasn’t at a point to deal with it. Anyway, last night I put the belt on. I learned immediately that you don’t want your arm though the steering wheel! Yes, I reached in through the window and fired it up. instant right turn to lock! Fortunately my column is floor shift or it could have shifted into gear when it spun me around! Besides other possibilities. Anyway, all good. So I find this thread but I can not get the valve body to move enough to center. Something is wrong. Done for the night. Today I removed the valve body. Wouldn’t you know it. I screwed up long ago putting two units into one. I had to switch bodies for the return line. I never knew anything about any of it! Yup, should have done some research. Anyway today I installed a replacement valve body, lever and spring. Pics below should explain it all! First pic is the carnage! Damaged lever, broken spring and broken tab from not having the lever lined up! Did I mention it’s a big block? Rather tight, but at least it’s a B-body! I got really lucky and centered it upon install too!!! Now I just have to let the manifold cool so I can tighten the inner bolt.