stiff clutch pedal help

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beerboy

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just bought a 1973 340 duster #s matching 4 speed, clutch pedal is stiff as heck, not fun driving in traffic. guy said I should put a center force set up in, that would lighten up the pedal. I need a real answer here as I am getting different opinions from different shops, one said it must be a comp clutch and I should get a ram set up, that a center force is a ladies clutch, one says maybe the pedal itself can be lightened up. want something that feels like the stock pedal, as this thing is a bear to drive, any thoughts out there ? thanks much
 
In 1970 I had a brand new aar cuda, when I came to a stop light my leg would shake from holding it in, thats the way they came new, if you cant drive it sell it. Or put a auto in it.
 
THEY WERE NOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Look up under the dash and see if the over center spring is installed. It's huge. You can't miss it
 
it was a while ago, but I know the clutch pedal in my 70 was no where near as hard to push down as this one and it was pure stock. I can actually hear the sound of the spring as I push it down. I know alot guys with 4 speed cars and theres are no where near this kind of pressure.
 
I put a centerforce clutch in because I got tired of the very stiff borg and beck style pressure plate. The new clutch is like a new car, very easy to push in. I am very impressed with it.
 
can the under dash over center spring be changed? looks like a heavy diameter wire spring, but have nothing to compare it to. would a different spring help? instead of replacing a clutch that does work as it should? thanks
 
Most of the effort comes from the pressure plate. How old are you, if you don't mind me asking.

Your clutch could also be normal. If your driving history is automatics or modern car manuals with their easy hydraulic clutches, an old mechanical clutch linkage will feel stiff.
 
Changing the clutch will be Easyer than changing to a auto? Centerforce clutch will be a lot easyer to hold!
 
I am 59, in good shape, and I know my 1970 duster was not like this. I also have some friends with older muscle cars, mostly Camaros and there clutches are no t near as hard to press in as this.I bought the car from a guy in a n upstate n.y rural area, where there were stop lights every 50 miles. I live near buffalo , and I would not want to be in a traffic jam with this clutch. you can actually hear the sound of the springs when you press pedal down, any how if I can,t get used to it, guys are saying its because its a 3 finger borg and beck plate, so I either deal with it or go to a ram , or centerforce set up, as this a street car only, no beating or racing !! thems my choices
 
Some aftermarket Borg/Beck style HEAVY DUTY clutches were a bear,,
my girlfriend/wife, couldn't hold the pedal down during a long red lite...
that's the way it was..

Diaphram (Centreforce) style clutchs will require less pedal pressure..

I saved enuff broken borg/becks, that I made a jig,, and started assembling my own press plates, with modified parts to last longer.. until centerforce came along..

hope it helps
 
beerboy said:
I am 59, in good shape, and I know my 1970 duster was not like this. I also have some friends with older muscle cars, mostly Camaros and there clutches are no t near as hard to press in as this.I bought the car from a guy in a n upstate n.y rural area, where there were stop lights every 50 miles. I live near buffalo , and I would not want to be in a traffic jam with this clutch. you can actually hear the sound of the springs when you press pedal down, any how if I can,t get used to it, guys are saying its because its a 3 finger borg and beck plate, so I either deal with it or go to a ram , or centerforce set up, as this a street car only, no beating or racing !! thems my choices
Click to expand...

GM cars typically used diaphragm clutches when new which don't take as much force to operate as a B&B.

The Centerforce is a diaphragm also and the big spring under the dash must be removed. Sounds like that's what you might want. You could always call Wayne Brewer or Jamie Passon for their opinions.

One problem with buying old cars is it's like a box of chocolates, you don't know what you have until you bite into it. No telling what's in there now until you look. You might remove the inspection cover (if there is one) and have a look. Post a pic even. Not doubting your memory, but it could be just a little rusty.

I keep threatening to convert to a 4 speed (have all the parts) and bought a "new" Centerforce over the summer. It looks like it was bolted down in a store display but it's obviously never been used and the price was right. No actual experience with it yet though.

Oh yeah one more thing, take the Z-bar out and make sure the nylon bushings are in good shape and greased. Every little bit might help. Sometimes they go steel-to-steel and start wearing the pivots. You can get all that stuff new.
 
rklein383 said:
I put a centerforce clutch in because I got tired of the very stiff borg and beck style pressure plate. The new clutch is like a new car, very easy to push in. I am very impressed with it.
Click to expand...

X2, did the same. Old school Borg and beck are stiff. Centerforce duel friction with helper spring removed pushes with half the effort.
 
I run dual friction centerforce in my race car , it engages nice 6500 to 7500 rpm hole shots are no problem . I just recently pulled the engine to freshin it and the centerforce with over 400 runs showed little wear ( im gonna reuse it ) for my money street or strip the CF is the best clutch out there ....... LOL since when does a clutch have to be hard to engage to be a mans clutch . These clutches are rated to 850 hp as per centerforce , but if you need more they have a dual disc unit that handles over 1200 hp .
 
It may be the pedal is binding. Disconnect the linkage from the clutch fork and check for binding. A little grease makes a difference. You can also modify linkage and zbar to make it a little easier.
 
what do you guys think of the ram clutch? the shop I am going to have do this is recommending the ram. waaddaya think? not looking for something my arthritic kneed wife can drive, just not a unit that only a gorilla with 2 left legs can drive in heavy traffic. lol
 
beerboy said:
what do you guys think of the ram clutch? the shop I am going to have do this is recommending the ram. waaddaya think? not looking for something my arthritic kneed wife can drive, just not a unit that only a gorilla with 2 left legs can drive in heavy traffic. lol
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Depends on the pressure plate. Diaphragm pressure plate will press easier than 3 finger pressure plate. RAM makes both styles. I went with the centerforce duel friction because a buddy of mine has been launching his duster w a stroker @ 4500 for 2 seasons now with no issues. I figure if it can withstand that kind of abuse, it should last me a really really long time normal street driving
 
I had a 10.95 that sounds like your clutch. It was a factory 440 HP clutch and pressure plate to fit on the 10.5 flywheel. Real sweet clutch but man, was it stout. It actually broke through the tube on the Z-Bar. McLeod recommended a diaphram clutch to me, untill I said I wanted to do up to 7,000 power shifts. I figure if you shift below that, go with a McLeod or Centerforce diaphram clutch. As others have said, plenty of holding power and much lighter pedal effort. I would not scrimp on a cheap clutch unless you want to get real good at changing them.
 
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