Stiff front end looking at aftermarket solutions

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Agreed.
I alway left a 2100 rpm, but my new torque converter, even tho it stalls a lot higher, it a lot tighter.
In otherwards my 3000 stall converter started grabbing or pulling on the car around 2000 rpm My new converter was torquing the **** out of it a 2100.
I have a two step that does nothing but turn a light on, on my dash. That is were I stall each time. Had to turn it down so that the light came on at 1500.
The problem with leaving the line at 1500 is that my reaction times were in the toilet. Had to learn how to leave all over again.

That slo mo video was me trying to find out why it would hop at the starting line. I found the problem. the rear offset shackles were binding on a bracket on the frame.
this is what i found and had to fix.

off set shackle bind..PNG

There's alway something trying to trip you up.
 
lol i just re read that.
It makes it sound like I'm agreeing that you don't know crap either.:D
What i was agreeing was. " They want all the travel they can get.":thumbsup:

@AJ/FormS
 
Ok so here is my thinking on this front end update.
The upper control arms saved me 2 pounds per side. no big deal in weight reduction. BUT.

I feel, at launch, the car will act like it has lost 60 pounds, per side, of weight.(It's not going to run a .10 quicker because i DID NOT lose 120(60 per side) of weight) It took 120+ pound to lift the suspension before i started. And as you seen in the last video it only took 60 pound to raise it afterwards.
I really think it's going to plant the back tires much harder........or maybe not........ but it has to raise the front end up faster.....
and i'm sure i gained another inch in rebound or up travel with the deletion of the rebound bumper.(Has 1/4" thick urethane rebound bumper now
IMG_2167.jpg

What do you think? am i nuts! or does this make sense to someone else.
 
Cudafever said:
First off, this is a E-body but still wanting opinion of ease and price of what aftermarket front end you when with on your mopar. And what you might do differently next time
My front end got disc front brakes and new urethane bushing all the way thru some 15 years ago.
I'm a drag racer and thought about posting up there, but felt here would give me more answer.

Here is a short video that show just how stiff it really is. complete stock suspension right now.
fixed video
Click to expand...


Was trying to get the dead video on the first page to work. Thanks to the Add Man the fixed it for me!!!!!!
 
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I should have knocked out the lower control arm bushing and greased it. but it moved freely and so i didn't.
not going to worry about it unless i decide to install a /6 torsion bar. then it will get some attention.
New rubber brake lines and bleeding the brakes is next.

 
Cudafever said:
The bushing are factory bushing that i hollowed out the rubber and pressed in urethane bushings(also 20+years ago)
Click to expand...

That would definitely cause issues. Poly bushings don't flex like rubber ones do so if you swap out the rubber for poly you need to have a way to guarantee that there is no friction between the poly bushing and the cam-bolt that holds it to the car. This is why poly LCA bushings must be used with hollow greaseable LCA pins so the bushings can rotate freely on the pins as the LCA moves up and down. Also why you see grease fittings on aftermarket UCAs that come with poly bushings.

Looks like you found the problem though and are on the right track... that's the extent of my advice lol I don't have much experience drag racing, my '70 Duster is being built for road racing.
 
I made the front end a ton free er but expected the bounce test to be a little bit looser than it was.
/6 t-bars would help that a lot.........but going back together the way it is for now. and hope it work like i want it to.
 
OK So after my last video........... i decide to take it back apart as i didn't like the sound of the lower control bushing squeaking.
It a urethane bushing that is really really dry.
WHAT'S THE BEST LUBE FOR A URETHANE BUSHING................
What chemicals are bad for cleaning urethane??????

IMG_2266.jpg
 
So i cleaned the urethane bushing in the lower control arm and used some 400 grit emery cloth on the sleeve and polish it vary smooth. Then lubed it up and installed. Amazed that it still fits in there tight after 20 years of abuse.
Bolted everything back together and did another bounce test with no shock installed again.

Decided not to post that video as i want to take it for a drive and video that as well. With hopefully a good end result.
When that's done and Edited, i will post it up here.
 
Cudafever said:
Agreed.
I alway left a 2100 rpm, but my new torque converter, even tho it stalls a lot higher, it a lot tighter.
In otherwards my 3000 stall converter started grabbing or pulling on the car around 2000 rpm My new converter was torquing the **** out of it a 2100.
I have a two step that does nothing but turn a light on, on my dash. That is were I stall each time. Had to turn it down so that the light came on at 1500.
The problem with leaving the line at 1500 is that my reaction times were in the toilet. Had to learn how to leave all over again.

That slo mo video was me trying to find out why it would hop at the starting line. I found the problem. the rear offset shackles were binding on a bracket on the frame.
this is what i found and had to fix.

View attachment 1715479651
There's alway something trying to trip you up.
Click to expand...

I just got into this thread, looks like ur rear springs are too long to me !!
 
famous bob said:
I just got into this thread, looks like ur rear springs are too long to me !!
Click to expand...
Mother mopar says there ok.
If they were much shorter, the spring eyelet might rub the subframe.
Agree they are back there a ways.
IMG_2280.jpg
 
Front end is level with me in it(right front is 3/8 of a inch higher, good enough until i get it on the alignment machine)...........ironically the Gangster Lean that i have always had in no longer there. Left to Right Rear is only 3/8" of a inch different with me in it. Favoring the RR of course.
Also lower the front another inch, still off the lower bump stops.
Car look completely different.

Still haven't got a video together yet one coming soon

Today i got done, what i should have done yesterday.
Worked at our local track, new Scoreboard up, and running conduit. So nothing got done on my car.

Hope to be able to sneak it out someday this week after work to test a few thing as well as this new front end.
 
I may post up a video at the Drag Strip when that time comes................

Other then this, that should put a period on this thread

 
Here is the video of my front end. Im at the track but here is no timing equipment and no prep on the track
Got a bit of slip the first time. dropped from 15 pound to 14.5 and ran that way the rest of the day. First ones are under the car and then several from the front of the car.
 
I had to search this thread down to find out what brand of control arms i bought back then.
I also smashed 5 videos, of this project down to a 5 minute one of it.
And decided to post it up while i'm here.
Oh and the suspension parts are RMK

 
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