Stock 360. Add Cam and intake.

-
Rice Nuker

Rice Nuker

Let the Coal Roll!
Joined
Jan 29, 2010
Messages
2,263
Reaction score
53
Location
U.S.A.! Near Jackson CA
I was considering adding a mild cam to my 125k mile good running 360 factory 1974 duster that I have on a rotisserie.. Dont know if it has any rebuild. I will add cam, lifters, oil pump and intake, headers. Oil pump is insurance against poor oil pressure.

What is the max lift I can run on cam with old factory valve springs? I was considering .474/.494 rating with 260/268 duration lunati voodo. I will mainly be using this engine to flog, burn fuel and oil, burn tires, and shake down my suspension. Life expectancy preference is 5 - 10k miles.

Any experienced opinion welcome.
Thanks!
.
 
if your valve springs have 125k on them...they really need to be changed out ......
 
Sounds like it really doesn't matter to you what happens so.....
A cam under .500 lift........Floggggg it !!!!!!!!!
 
I have a .450-260' mopar performance cam in a low compression 318 with a edelbrock performer and thermoquad. Runs real good and pulls hard in a '70 dart. Don't think you need to go much bigger than that. If you call the tech line at comp or somebody like Hughes, they usually will set you up with what you need.
 
I think the cam would work well, but you need springs. the hughes 1110s are pretty good single, you might get away with the comp 901 single springs, but you will be pushing it but still way better than worn out stockers!!!!
 
As of late I have decided to overhaul this engine with mild performance with a econo budget and some tlc. Considering that I need an engine for 2 years or so that is fun to run and reliable, I am changing gears a bit.

I have a new RPM (not air gap). I have new dougs full length. I have a new MP dist and probably will run GM HEI or FBO ECU. Carb will be a rebuilt large or regular TQ with square to spread adapter, possibly switching to a QF later if needed. Running 3.55 SG and 727 with stock converter in a stiff suspension duster factory no ac manual steering.

I plan to have the block dipped and all oil galleys cleaned, checked for cracks or issues. New cam bearings and freez plugs. I guess typical machine shop cleaning process.
I am prob going to mill / square the deck too.
I am hoping the cylinders and pistons are good enuff to run stock bore / factory pistons. Having the bores honed.

If bore / pistons cannot be stock, I will get KBs and recondition the rods.

What suggestions would you all have for stock J heads, stock pistons?

Should I mill the heads allot? I plan to surface heads, install 2.02 valves, have the ports cleaned up and 5 angle valve job only. I reckon that would be a good bet on the heads. What is a common price for the above head work?

So, what basic stuff would you do to the heads and block?
 
What's your budget?

First thing I'd recommend doing is measuring the combustion chambers to see how large they are. You will need a burette, some engine oil and a piece of glass.

This is the first step in calculating your compression ratio.
 
frosty_the_punk said:
What's your budget?

First thing I'd recommend doing is measuring the combustion chambers to see how large they are. You will need a burette, some engine oil and a piece of glass.

This is the first step in calculating your compression ratio.
Click to expand...

x2
 
Okay cool. Understood. Thanks for the replies.

My budget out the door is 2K.
I already have the headers and intake / carb.

I actually have not been to the machine shop in 15 years and it was in a far away state so I have no ideas as to the costs. Reckon I need to tear down the engine and get the block and heads to the shop to see what condition they are in. Maybe I can get the machine shop to CC the heads.

I already have the headers and intake / carb.


frosty_the_punk said:
What's your budget?

First thing I'd recommend doing is measuring the combustion chambers to see how large they are. You will need a burette, some engine oil and a piece of glass.

This is the first step in calculating your compression ratio.
Click to expand...
 
Hood clearance could be a big issue with the adapter for the TQ.
Purchase new rods as it will be cheaper than recon'd stock rods. It will also be stronger and lighter.
Writhe stock pistons, your looking at a head mill of about .060 which is a good bit to do. With the move to a larger valve, the gain will be small. The big gain is when you at least bowl port the heads. The increased area under the valve that remains stock to the smaller valve reall does t help performance to much.

If it were I doing this, and doing it on the cheap as a short term engine is described above. I myself would do this:

New rods and slugs in the overbored and home plates finished block with trued decks. True the heads surface and plan on a mill to yield a pump gas friendly ratio. This way milling is held to a min. A sime refurbishing of the heads with the new valve spring that match the cam would be used. Skip the 2.02's.
 
I am East of Sacramento and Folsom, West of Placerville CA so if anyone has any solid rec on a machine shop, that would be very much appreciated.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top