hey guys i just had a brain storm idea and it is kinda odd but i like different, nok i have a couple 383 shortblocks sitting around and a demon to be fixed was going with a 416 alumium headwanting 550 600 hp, i know what this requires, a lot of money and machine work cause i have one stoke stroke 340 with the good heads, then i thought hey 383 block crank and rods are good to alot of power and they rev great if it has the right stuff, ah ablout 10.5 to 1 maybe some 440 source heads i know i will have to get them redone but have a great machine guy, good intake ,headers and carb with a 4 speed of course , and good cam selection and boom same hp and tq with alot less money, no 2 grand stroker kit and something diff nobody else wants to do, but i want to stay with stoke stroke, i know stroker equals easy power but i like the factory stroke , anyone got ideas, numbers, combos, or thoughts, seen a set of cnc procomps on ebay for 1500 are they anygood or same as 440 source?:blob:
Stoke stroke 383 horsepower
- Thread starter 345man2
- Start date
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they require off set rockers on the intakes...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/chrysler-mo...Parts_Accessories&hash=item256ca618d1&vxp=mtr
set with rockers
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Rocke...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ab3b5bb33&vxp=mtr
rockers only
http://www.ebay.com/itm/chrysler-mo...Parts_Accessories&hash=item256ca618d1&vxp=mtr
set with rockers
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Rocke...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ab3b5bb33&vxp=mtr
rockers only
OK, look. The 383 is just a small block in a big package. The 383 stroke is only .070" longer than the 340, 3.38" vs 3.31" and is actually smaller than the 360 at 3.58". So, I think you are looking at about the same amount of money to get the 383 to 550-600HP as if you tried it with a 360.
Stock Stealth heads will limit the 383 to about 500 HP and you will have to spin the stock stroke 383 to maybe 7000 rpm. If you want to spend the dollars, the standard Stealth heads can be ported to 340-350 cfm which will increase their power potential to nearly 800 HP in the right builders hands. The CNC Procomps would be a better deal.
The stock rods will take those high rpms for a period of time but they are now 40 years old and have many cycles on them already.
Remember, cheap is cheap and a 600 HP 383, built cheaply (if even possible), will grenade (inevitable).
Stock Stealth heads will limit the 383 to about 500 HP and you will have to spin the stock stroke 383 to maybe 7000 rpm. If you want to spend the dollars, the standard Stealth heads can be ported to 340-350 cfm which will increase their power potential to nearly 800 HP in the right builders hands. The CNC Procomps would be a better deal.
The stock rods will take those high rpms for a period of time but they are now 40 years old and have many cycles on them already.
Remember, cheap is cheap and a 600 HP 383, built cheaply (if even possible), will grenade (inevitable).
moparlover
Well-Known Member
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/155_0209_383_engine_restore/index.html 455hp with iron heads
changes to that build i would make
1.eddy heads flow better out of the box than the stocks, almost as good as if you pay $1500 to get stock heads CNC ported. right out of the box.
2. use a GOOD set of roller rockers. go for HS or Jesel if you want to really hop it up.
Hughes at a minimum. i would not go with 440source setup
3. big block heads are cheaper to get flow out of than the small block heads. the int/exh ports are bigger, valves are bigger, etc.
4. bottom end absolutely go with forged crank, forged rods, forged pistons if you plan on 600 hp
5. upgrade the oiling system. external pump like they did here
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_0711_mopar_383/viewall.html
here's some numbers:
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/hrdp_0801_mopar_intake_manifolds/viewall.html
if you want it to be bullet proof, quality machining/blueprinting/clearance checks are mandatory
it's not gonna be super cheap, but they are nice little engines if done right
changes to that build i would make
1.eddy heads flow better out of the box than the stocks, almost as good as if you pay $1500 to get stock heads CNC ported. right out of the box.
2. use a GOOD set of roller rockers. go for HS or Jesel if you want to really hop it up.
Hughes at a minimum. i would not go with 440source setup
3. big block heads are cheaper to get flow out of than the small block heads. the int/exh ports are bigger, valves are bigger, etc.
4. bottom end absolutely go with forged crank, forged rods, forged pistons if you plan on 600 hp
5. upgrade the oiling system. external pump like they did here
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_0711_mopar_383/viewall.html
here's some numbers:
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/hrdp_0801_mopar_intake_manifolds/viewall.html
if you want it to be bullet proof, quality machining/blueprinting/clearance checks are mandatory
it's not gonna be super cheap, but they are nice little engines if done right
were getting some good ideas nowand my mind is spinning and that is good, thinking of a mostly street engine but two or three times a year strip job, and i know this is crazy but i like the short stroke idea and high rpms, i know i am crazy , im the same with my 340, cant bring myself to stroke it, i just flip a switch and make up the hp
Salty Dog
Well-Known Member
I love IQ's post, how true.
Moperlover has a great idea as well. Cheaply doing a 383? Would a stroker kit be out for it would be a big jump in cubes.
Otherwise, I kinda like what they say.
Moperlover has a great idea as well. Cheaply doing a 383? Would a stroker kit be out for it would be a big jump in cubes.
Otherwise, I kinda like what they say.
he seems like a smart guy and got some great advice, and made me think bout aybe some good i beams, like to keep stoke stroke unless crank is junk by some chance, kb pistons, and heads are up for grabs, nothing extreme but preetty good
Salty Dog
Well-Known Member
Ahhhhh, sorry, just re-read no stroker. Sorry.
OK, so, a 383 it is!
Well lets see, a lighter rod is a good start and it'll be stronger to boot. That is a plus. Better higher comp. slugs are next. Which ones to use?! Which ones to use?!?!?!
I guess, really, from here, what we would all need to know is a few things about what you yourself want to do or achieve with the 383 and the cars performance level you want to get out of it. This would make suggestions easier.
Lets start with;
Is there a time you want to run or power level you want to get to.
Trans being used
rear end gear and tire size
What is too far for this build?
I'd say in general from the first post that a basic parts list could look something like;
750 carb, RPM intake, standard headers (?) with 3.91 gears and a 26-27 inch tire. A cam is a tricky thing, somewhere between 230 and 244 @ .050 duration with a decent lift and ported heads. Doing the OE iron would be cheapest with stock valves I think. Converter to match cam and car.
OK, so, a 383 it is!
Well lets see, a lighter rod is a good start and it'll be stronger to boot. That is a plus. Better higher comp. slugs are next. Which ones to use?! Which ones to use?!?!?!
I guess, really, from here, what we would all need to know is a few things about what you yourself want to do or achieve with the 383 and the cars performance level you want to get out of it. This would make suggestions easier.
Lets start with;
Is there a time you want to run or power level you want to get to.
Trans being used
rear end gear and tire size
What is too far for this build?
I'd say in general from the first post that a basic parts list could look something like;
750 carb, RPM intake, standard headers (?) with 3.91 gears and a 26-27 inch tire. A cam is a tricky thing, somewhere between 230 and 244 @ .050 duration with a decent lift and ported heads. Doing the OE iron would be cheapest with stock valves I think. Converter to match cam and car.
k thinking pump gas compression, either ported iron or procomp or 440 source redone by american that knows what a mopar is lol, intake dont know, like the light rods, prob kb pistons, got the carb either 750 hp or a 926 carb shop, cam i am in question on, going to be a 4 speed with 3.91 gear prob, 26 /12 tires and would like to be in the 550 horse range and it dont hurt my feeling a bit to turn it 7 grand is what i am after, big block with some r's what you think
I've been fooling with a 383 for a bit now, and have some suggestions. Do a BUNCH of checking/measuring before buying pistons. 383's are a pain to get compression out of, and don't tell me "they were 10.0 to 1 stock" because they sure weren't. I have flat tops with NO valve reliefs, and milled closed chamber heads, and just touch 10.0 to 1, BUT, you run out of room for a big cam, (needed for your HP goals). OK put in a piston with big notches, compression goes in the toilet. I would also skip the 750 cfm. carb. MM did a build off a stock one, and even at 9.2 to 1, with stock heads/cam, a 950 HP made more HP/torque right from the bottom of the dyno pull. I ran a 750 DP on a stock 2bbl. engine, and it ran beautifully.
If I were to try a dedicated 383 build with 500+ HP in mind, I would go to a 300+ cfm cylinder head, and shoot for a piston with 10-10.5 to 1, up to 11.0 if you use aluminum heads, being you want to stay pump gas. Good rods, stock steel crank is fine. good intake, like the M-1. 850-950 carb. cam in the 250 degree @ .050" range, solid lifter, .575-600" lift. Good valve gear. large tube headers, good ignition. Good luck.
I have flat tops with NO valve reliefs, and milled closed chamber heads, and just touch 10.0 to 1, BUT, you run out of room for a big cam, (needed for your HP goals). OK put in a piston with big notches, compression goes in the toilet. I would also skip the 750 cfm. carb. MM did a build off a stock one, and even at 9.2 to 1, with stock heads/cam, a 950 HP made more HP/torque right from the bottom of the dyno pull. I ran a 750 DP on a stock 2bbl. engine, and it ran beautifully.If I were to try a dedicated 383 build with 500+ HP in mind, I would go to a 300+ cfm cylinder head, and shoot for a piston with 10-10.5 to 1, up to 11.0 if you use aluminum heads, being you want to stay pump gas. Good rods, stock steel crank is fine. good intake, like the M-1. 850-950 carb. cam in the 250 degree @ .050" range, solid lifter, .575-600" lift. Good valve gear. large tube headers, good ignition. Good luck.
moper
Well-Known Member
No matter what you start with, to get hp costs. You're buying different parts, but you have to move the same amount of air in and out. You'll have anywhere from $7K-$9K regardless of the block choice.
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