Stop in for a cup of coffee

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How's this for a kick in the. nuts. Little woman went to OKC to to see the grandkids on Sunday. Goes to bed Monday night with a headache. Doesn't wake up Tuesday.. 911 call.. She's doa when they get there.. WTF!

Wanna talk about ******* up your world.

Me and the critter gots lots of adjusting to do.

My heart aches for you man. Gettin' a little misty here. Peace to you brother.
 
It's a God thing. No sooner than I finish typing my condolences, a knock on the door. It's 8:15 in the morning here. My neighborhood Jehova's Witness visitor. I have never seen the woman without a smile on her face :D. Annnd she brought her hot red headed friend.
 
Another long distance bicycling event in town today. AIDS/Lifecycle Ride, fund raising ride for HIV research. Starts in San Fran ends in LA. This is NOT your usual bicycling event :rofl:.
 
You'll have to explain that. or maybe not....

Catching up on work today and also clearing stuff left from yesterday.
Just noticed I forgot to order some speedometer pinion seals when I ordered a bunch of other stuff. :BangHead:
 
So I'm thinking about just ordering a set of new LCAs. The T-bars are stuck in the ones on the polara. Soaking again in PBblaster.
 
yesterday dealt with the loose wheel bearing adjustment.
Tried a different approach.
1st was to tighten to spec. 90 inchpounds.
Next doubled the spec to be be sure it was seated good.
Then loosened and retighted to 90 - 100 in pounds.
Lets see if this holds.

Also noticed the new Hillman cotter pins don't like be bent back and forth as much as the old ones. I know your not supposed to reuse them so its not the worst thing in the world. But still...
 
looks the same as the one I have. You may find it slips on tough to remove bars.
When I torqued up the assembly screws one broke. I had to drill and tap a new hole. Switch them all out for grade 8 of the right length. Some shoulder but not so long as to interfere and at least 2 diameters worth of threads engaged. IIRC its 1/4-20 which I don't think has a mil-spec version.

Then hit with a big hammer as hard as you can. Maybe an air hammer would be good. Never tried that but could be useful when there is no room for a proper swing.
 
looks the same as the one I have. You may find it slips on tough to remove bars.
When I torqued up the assembly screws one broke. I had to drill and tap a new hole. Switch them all out for grade 8 of the right length. Some shoulder but not so long as to interfere and at least 2 diameters worth of threads engaged. IIRC its 1/4-20 which I don't think has a mil-spec version.

Then hit with a big hammer as hard as you can. Maybe an air hammer would be good. Never tried that but could be useful when there is no room for a proper swing.
yeah, I switched mine out to grade 8s years ago after stripping on of the bolts. It's holding and not slipping, hitting on it with a 12 lb sledge. May jump up to a 20 pounder.
 
yeah, I switched mine out to grade 8s years ago after stripping on of the bolts. It's holding and not slipping, hitting on it with a 12 lb sledge. May jump up to a 20 pounder.
Geez! Best I can ever get in there is an "engineers hammer". Even a cross pien smithing hammer is hard to swing under the car. Even so the stricking surface of the t-bar remover is dented a bit.
 
Geez! Best I can ever get in there is an "engineers hammer". Even a cross pien smithing hammer is hard to swing under the car. Even so the stricking surface of the t-bar remover is dented a bit.
I've got room, no exhaust and its up on the lift.
 
Unload the bars and break the lower ball joint loose.
Adjusters are completely taken out, lower ball joints, spindles, tie rods, and uppers are all off the car already. Keep in mind, this thing sat up to the rockers in clay for nearly 2 decades and a lot of stuff is stuck.
 
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Here it is...(what Mark posted link for)
 
wow, they're forecasting 4-8 inches.... OF RAIN (yeah I know Karl)
 
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