Stop in for a cup of coffee

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Its bubbling...
6A52A330-7044-4722-A843-B3C7040EAF80.jpeg
 
Ddaddy said:
Another little secret is that almost all of the 5 pin stock replacements are actually a 4 pin internally and the 5th pin is a dummy. That makes the second part of the dual ballast useless and can confuse the hell out of someone trying to solve an ignition problem. Because they are 4 pin internally, they also carry the ignition advance controls that the original 5 pin didn’t.
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Despite my successful cold start this morning, I will get a spare control module. Comparing diff ones. I want a black case as I believe it should have been originally. Other than that doesn.t matter too much. Biggest functional diff is some are supposed to be better at high rpm . Not really an issue for me.

Looks like 4 vs 5 pin not a secret anymore. Hardly any 5 pins available. Guess most are only making 4's since they work for either.

This is from Spectra:
4 Pin module The replacement module you have purchased is equipped with 4 pins. Chrysler production modules now have 4 pins compared to the 5 pin original module and is the current application design for your vehicle.

Similar info from BWD:
5-pin vs. 4-pin: All Replacement modules for Chrysler applications have 4-pin connectors. Early O.E. modules had 5 pins while current Chrysler production also has 4 pins. THe New 4pin modules are correct replacements for both O.E. types (except Dodge Trucks with heavy duty emissions cycle carburetor with electronically controlled vacuum kicker).

I did look and the one on it is 5 pin. Not sure, but I think it's from AZ and as far as I can tell their Duralast is actually the Airtex module-which I think someone recommended against... Probably get the BWD that shows in stock at my local Pep Boys for $20. ​
 
Tooljunkie said:
Im not sure of your particular size,but this is the sku for the adapter i posted earlier. View attachment 1715152159 It will take some measuring to verify correct part,weatherhead or fairview have decent online lookups.
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thats actually the very size I need. Thanks! I know why I couldnt find it earlier, its not stocked locally. have to order it. So ordered! thanks
 
Its not that difficult, get a little rammy with a cheap 10-32 tap and one little click and its game over. The alum cooking off is making the air taste funny.

Gotta drop the rest of the driveshaft,f250 has a driveline noise. Rear 2 are perfect.
Guess its the front one.
 
Tooljunkie said:
Its not that difficult, get a little rammy with a cheap 10-32 tap and one little click and its game over. The alum cooking off is making the air taste funny.

Gotta drop the rest of the driveshaft,f250 has a driveline noise. Rear 2 are perfect.
Guess its the front one.
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im curious as to how this works, I may use it when we break pivot balls for clutches.
 
Tooljunkie said:
Its not that difficult, get a little rammy with a cheap 10-32 tap and one little click and its game over.
Click to expand...
Not just cheapos. Any small 4 flute tap. They are very hard/brittle and not that much steel. If they bind up and stop and you don't. As you say, 'game over'. Soft aluminum will trick you. First cuts you get rolling and think it's so easy you'll just keep going. Till all of a sudden a chip catches like a big gumball and snap! LOL. Gotta back off and clear chips same as steel and use oil. Recently introduced to 2 flute 'gun taps' Definitely the way to go on smaller sizes.
 
Tooljunkie said:
The alum cooking off is making the air taste funny.
Click to expand...
Never heard of this before, but just looked it up. ​
Very interestin. Will dissolve steels, but not aluminum or brass. Hmmm. So do you just rinse it off to stop the process? Could you do a rinse of this for rust removal?
 
zkx14 said:
Despite my successful cold start this morning, I will get a spare control module. Comparing diff ones. I want a black case as I believe it should have been originally. Other than that doesn.t matter too much. Biggest functional diff is some are supposed to be better at high rpm . Not really an issue for me.

Looks like 4 vs 5 pin not a secret anymore. Hardly any 5 pins available. Guess most are only making 4's since they work for either.

This is from Spectra:
4 Pin module The replacement module you have purchased is equipped with 4 pins. Chrysler production modules now have 4 pins compared to the 5 pin original module and is the current application design for your vehicle.

Similar info from BWD:
5-pin vs. 4-pin: All Replacement modules for Chrysler applications have 4-pin connectors. Early O.E. modules had 5 pins while current Chrysler production also has 4 pins. THe New 4pin modules are correct replacements for both O.E. types (except Dodge Trucks with heavy duty emissions cycle carburetor with electronically controlled vacuum kicker).

I did look and the one on it is 5 pin. Not sure, but I think it's from AZ and as far as I can tell their Duralast is actually the Airtex module-which I think someone recommended against... Probably get the BWD that shows in stock at my local Pep Boys for $20. ​
Click to expand...
Buy what you think is best. Spray paint black.
Or if you really want, I saw an old Chrysler one on ebay today. (no I didn't buy it, I was looking for old cap & rotor and it just happened to pop up)
 
Mattax said:
Buy what you think is best. Spray paint black.
Or if you really want, I saw an old Chrysler one on ebay today. (no I didn't buy it, I was looking for old cap & rotor and it just happened to pop up)
Click to expand...
Well, since I don't know that any work better than another, the black one IS the best. LOL
 
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