Strange electrical issue

-

straightlinespeed

Sometimes I pretend to be normal
Joined
Oct 21, 2012
Messages
10,630
Reaction score
4,399
Location
Uvita, Costa Rica
Hi guys, I have a strange issue going on.

I recently rewired my car with a EZ Wiring 21 circuit kit. I've also done a few upgrades such as headlight relays, and added HEI ignition. I've run all my grounds to 3 locations on the car.

So as Im driving my car, when I got to WOT, and put a huge load on the ignition system, my radio will shut off but then the radio turns back on, even though Im still at WOT. So its just that initial load of going to WOT that does it.

Everything else seems to work just fine, so far.

Do you guys have any idea what may be causing this very weird issue or where I can start to look?
 
Look to see if the initial torquing-over of the engine is moving a connector and breaking contact for a moment. How long does this 'radio-off' issue last?

Also, look at the voltage with a voltmeter when this happesn and see if it spikes up or down.
 
Hmmmm that is weird. 12V is 12V WOT or not.
I agree with above sounds like a bad connection....maybe something touching ground for a second? I'd be looking around the alternator maybe...
 
Look to see if the initial torquing-over of the engine is moving a connector and breaking contact for a moment. How long does this 'radio-off' issue last? Also, look at the voltage with a voltmeter when this happesn and see if it spikes up or down.

I'll take a look around, for anything that looks like it might be getting strained. It only lasts about 1 second just enough for the radio to turn off. It comes back on that quick. Im taking the car for a drive tomorrow so I'll pay attention to the voltage to see what it does.
 
I though my radio ground was a...ground. Turned out to be the radio dash light 12v+ circuit (but was a hard ground when I checked it with the car off) A/C cutout?
 
I though my radio ground was a...ground. Turned out to be the radio dash light 12v+ circuit (but was a hard ground when I checked it with the car off) A/C cutout?
OBTW....Your radio light is likely in parallel with the instruments lights, and with everything off, the low 'off' resistance of a bunch of instruments lights to ground will be pretty low.

And to the original post, the ignition circuit load does not typically change all that much with RPM's, and it does not know anything about throttle opening.
 
Check the ground to the radio,, run a temp separate wire for ground as a test..

I have not done this yet, but I plan to today. I know I tied the radio ground in with all of the other grounds from the dash. I hope this is the only issue and none of the other things do the same thing. I did check my voltage as I did this and it stayed nice and steady.

I though my radio ground was a...ground. Turned out to be the radio dash light 12v+ circuit (but was a hard ground when I checked it with the car off) A/C cutout?

I'm going to run its own ground wire and see if it takes care of this.

OBTW.... And to the original post, the ignition circuit load does not typically change all that much with RPM's, and it does not know anything about throttle opening.

Ok, I wasnt sure if you would see a draw like that. Good to know.

Factory radio? Problem could be radio itself. Or maybe it is the speaker??

No Steve, this is a brand new aftermarket radio.

One other thing I was curious about and not sure if this is a issue or not... On my volt gauge, it usually runs around 14v, maybe a tich under. I have a NOS voltage regulator in the car and was wondering if this might had been a race regulator because of the higher voltage.. I thought that it would typically be about 12.5-13v on the gauge.
 
The alternator should be putting out in the neighborhodd of 13.7 to 14.2 volts if all is well (maybe a bit higher if cold it is or lower if hot); so your gauge seems accurate. You may be thinking of the battery voltage with the car not running and nothing on; well charged and with any charge removed for an hour or so, the battery sill read 12.6 to 12.7 volts if in good shape.
 
The alternator should be putting out in the neighborhodd of 13.7 to 14.2 volts if all is well (maybe a bit higher if cold it is or lower if hot); so your gauge seems accurate. You may be thinking of the battery voltage with the car not running and nothing on; well charged and with any charge removed for an hour or so, the battery sill read 12.6 to 12.7 volts if in good shape.

Ok here is the other thing. I tied my volt gauge into just one of the 12v constant wires under the dash... So still no problem with that?? Just want to make sure.
 
-
Back
Top