joes68340s
Well-Known Member
Hi, what cams are being run in stroker motors. I am building a 410 stroker for the street. I am looking for something mild, not to lopey.
Stroker Cams
- Thread starter joes68340s
- Start date
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3
340srule
Guest
When i built my 416 last year,i used a Lunati voodoo series cam .494int/.513ext...i think its a great cam not to wild but not tame either,the duster ran a best of 11.29 with it,this season i'm running their .533/.552 cam with a best of 11.04 so far...
Works good in a stroker on a lite car with at least 3k stall and 3.91 or steeper.
Crane
Part Number: 690911 Grind Number: F-248/3602-2-8
Engine Identification:
Start Yr. End Yr. Make Cyl Description
1964 Up PLYMOUTH-DODGE-CHRYSLER 8 ROUGH IDLE, PERFORMANCE USAGE, GOOD MID-RANGE HP, LIMITED OVAL TRACK, BRACKET RACING, AUTO TRANS W/2000+ CONVERTER, 10.5 TO 12.0 COMPRESSION RATIO ADVISED. BASIC RPM 3500-7000
Engine Size Configuration
273-360 C.I. V
Valve Setting: Intake .026 Exhaust .026 HOT
Lift: Intake @Cam 3602 @Valve 540 All Lifts are based
on zero lash and theoretical rocker arm ratios.
Exhaust @ Cam 3735 @Valve 560
Rocker Arm Ratio 1.5
Cam Timing: TAPPET @.020
Lift: Opens Closes ADV Duration
Intake 38 BTDC 66 ABDC 284 °
Exhaust 79 BBDC 35 ATDC 294 °
Spring Requirements: Triple Dual Outer Inner
Part Number 99838
Loads Closed 112 LBS @ 1.650 or 1 21/32
Open 318 LBS @ 1.140
Recommended RPM range with matching components
Minimum RPM 3200
Maximum RPM 7200
Valve Float 7800
Cam Timing: TAPPET @.050
Lift: Opens Closes Max Lift Duration
Intake 21 BTDC 47 ABDC 103 248 °
Exhaust 62 BBDC 16 ATDC 113 258 °
Crane
Part Number: 690911 Grind Number: F-248/3602-2-8
Engine Identification:
Start Yr. End Yr. Make Cyl Description
1964 Up PLYMOUTH-DODGE-CHRYSLER 8 ROUGH IDLE, PERFORMANCE USAGE, GOOD MID-RANGE HP, LIMITED OVAL TRACK, BRACKET RACING, AUTO TRANS W/2000+ CONVERTER, 10.5 TO 12.0 COMPRESSION RATIO ADVISED. BASIC RPM 3500-7000
Engine Size Configuration
273-360 C.I. V
Valve Setting: Intake .026 Exhaust .026 HOT
Lift: Intake @Cam 3602 @Valve 540 All Lifts are based
on zero lash and theoretical rocker arm ratios.
Exhaust @ Cam 3735 @Valve 560
Rocker Arm Ratio 1.5
Cam Timing: TAPPET @.020
Lift: Opens Closes ADV Duration
Intake 38 BTDC 66 ABDC 284 °
Exhaust 79 BBDC 35 ATDC 294 °
Spring Requirements: Triple Dual Outer Inner
Part Number 99838
Loads Closed 112 LBS @ 1.650 or 1 21/32
Open 318 LBS @ 1.140
Recommended RPM range with matching components
Minimum RPM 3200
Maximum RPM 7200
Valve Float 7800
Cam Timing: TAPPET @.050
Lift: Opens Closes Max Lift Duration
Intake 21 BTDC 47 ABDC 103 248 °
Exhaust 62 BBDC 16 ATDC 113 258 °
Joe, can you help define your words of,
Otherwise, a flying blind guess would be, http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA-20-741-9&autoview=sku
Also, could you describe the cars parts, auto, manual, rear gear, etc....
Otherwise, a flying blind guess would be, http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA-20-741-9&autoview=sku
joes68340s
Well-Known Member
My plan is a daily type driver, 3.23 gears,auto, it will be 410 stroker. I want it to look as close to stock as posible. I dont want a large lopey cam, I would like to run my stock 340 manifolds if possible. This needs to be a drivable car that I can let the wife drive. I dont need another race car. 68 Barracuda Formula S , I am still considering Heads also. It still will see the track a few times a year. Thanks
Then cam wise I would not go much more than the stock 68-70 340 cam profile. You can maybe benifit from a little more lift, but keep the durration down and stay hydraulic. It should still make decent power and have very good low end torque.
As for the heads. I would do a set of J heads or X iron heads if that is what you have? Go with 2.02 intakes and at least 1.60 ex. Do stainless valves and if you replace the guides you may want to step down to the 5/16 stems for less weight and a little better flow. But with what you are talking I would not waste a lot of $$ on aftermarket heads. Also be very carefull on the compression for the street. Once you bore oversize and the stroker crank with a small cam you will have a bunch of combustion pressure and temp ie heat. So make sure you do maybe a dished Ross 9.5 piston and good head gaskets for the street.
Since you are staying with the iron ex manifolds and 3.23 this makes a lot of since. I also you not go to crazy on a convertor either. You should be in the ball park of the type ot torque a 383 magmum made in the day. So a 11" convertor from say a 69-70 car running a 383 in an A body would be an off the shelf good choice. But if you want a little more call Turbo Action or one of the other companies and tell them what you have and they can give a good reccomendation. Most likely in the 2200-2500 RPM tight style of convertor.
Should be a good street driver.
good luck!
As for the heads. I would do a set of J heads or X iron heads if that is what you have? Go with 2.02 intakes and at least 1.60 ex. Do stainless valves and if you replace the guides you may want to step down to the 5/16 stems for less weight and a little better flow. But with what you are talking I would not waste a lot of $$ on aftermarket heads. Also be very carefull on the compression for the street. Once you bore oversize and the stroker crank with a small cam you will have a bunch of combustion pressure and temp ie heat. So make sure you do maybe a dished Ross 9.5 piston and good head gaskets for the street.
Since you are staying with the iron ex manifolds and 3.23 this makes a lot of since. I also you not go to crazy on a convertor either. You should be in the ball park of the type ot torque a 383 magmum made in the day. So a 11" convertor from say a 69-70 car running a 383 in an A body would be an off the shelf good choice. But if you want a little more call Turbo Action or one of the other companies and tell them what you have and they can give a good reccomendation. Most likely in the 2200-2500 RPM tight style of convertor.
Should be a good street driver.
good luck!
moper
Well-Known Member
Stock type cams will not work over about 4000 rpm in a 4" arm engine. They just can't feed it. The 422 I have "in the wings" will have this crane number:
http://cranecams.com/?show=browsePa...-360 C.I.&partNumber=694561&partType=camshaft
In a 4" engine, "small" is 235°@.050. This 422 is iron 587 heads, and basic rpm range is 1500 to 5500 in an E body with 3.23s. The stroke eats up camshaft duration...lol. So dont be afraid to give it some. As a semi-comparable, the 505 (4.25 stroke) I just fired runs a custom by me solid lifter cam with 278° and 280°@.050 on intake and exhaust respectively. It's 10.4:1, runs factory sized port RPMs, and idles with a slight romp at 900 rpm on 93 unleaded. I havent tuned it yet, so I'm sure with tweaking it will settle down a little.
http://cranecams.com/?show=browsePa...-360 C.I.&partNumber=694561&partType=camshaft
In a 4" engine, "small" is 235°@.050. This 422 is iron 587 heads, and basic rpm range is 1500 to 5500 in an E body with 3.23s. The stroke eats up camshaft duration...lol. So dont be afraid to give it some. As a semi-comparable, the 505 (4.25 stroke) I just fired runs a custom by me solid lifter cam with 278° and 280°@.050 on intake and exhaust respectively. It's 10.4:1, runs factory sized port RPMs, and idles with a slight romp at 900 rpm on 93 unleaded. I havent tuned it yet, so I'm sure with tweaking it will settle down a little.
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