Stump Grinder Slant 6 Starter

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joetemus

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My neighbor has a slant 6 powered stump grinder that I am trying to get running. It's super cobbled and homemade, but the cool part is that it has a slant 6 engine on it to power it. Only problem is, the starter is so weak, it barely turns the motor over. I am looking to get a high torque mini starter if possible, but the 2 from oriellys the parts guy sold me dont fit. I need a 3 bolt.

Starter Part # 1889100
Starter Head Casting #G1889067

Any idea if there is an equivalent I can use? No idea what the engine is out of, as well as the bellhousing. Maybe just a new standard starter would be enough.

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Those old starters got slow when the bushings at each end wore, allowing the armature to actually physically drag on the outer field magnets, creating huge amp draw .
This got really bad when the engine was hot .
If it works, carefully take it apart and look at the armature, there should be witness marks on the armature.
Replace the bushes, - and the brushes if nec.
Should be good to go .
 
You sure it is not battery/ cables/ connections? Or maybe the solenoid? I'm pretty sure you cannot swap a mini onto that style mounting. That is not a "normal" (should say common) starter used on slants. Used on older, some trucks, industrial.
 
joetemus said:
My neighbor has a slant 6 powered stump grinder that I am trying to get running. It's super cobbled and homemade, but the cool part is that it has a slant 6 engine on it to power it. Only problem is, the starter is so weak, it barely turns the motor over. I am looking to get a high torque mini starter if possible, but the 2 from oriellys the parts guy sold me dont fit. I need a 3 bolt.

Starter Part # 1889100
Starter Head Casting #G1889067

Any idea if there is an equivalent I can use? No idea what the engine is out of, as well as the bellhousing. Maybe just a new standard starter would be enough.

View attachment 1716102852

View attachment 1716102853
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I think those direct drive starters are used with a 172-tooth flywheel. If that is the case, then the usual starters for 130/143 tooth flywheel will not interchange. Just something to check.
Also, can you post more pictures of the stump grinder? I like it!
 
I’ve had good luck taking those old starters apart. You can and clean everything with a scotch brite and some cleaner. Like post 4 clean the connections.
 
The one Charlie linked to is about your only choice other than having the old one rebuilt. There is no three bolt high torque mini starter for Mopar that I know of.
 
my5thmopar said:
I’ve had good luck taking those old starters apart. You can and clean everything with a scotch brite and some cleaner. Like post 4 clean the connections.
Click to expand...
Me as well. As long as the commutator is not torn up and the brushes worn out, take it apart, make certain dust/ debri/ rust is not causing the armature to drag the field, blow it out good with air, grease up the bushings, clean up the commutator with some sandpaper and put it back together.

Good example is my old Farmall 100 (Super A) Built in the late 40's / early 50's I think it is original--and it was converted to 12, so it's a 6V starter on 12
 
We have an electric motor rebuilder in town that will fix a starter or alternator for $30. They mostly rebuild electric swimming pool pumps, alternators, starters, fan motors, i woukd start there!
 
I'm just now putting my '64 D100 back together and realized that I have the same 1889100 starter (including the same G1889067 head casting) on my slant 6. I've returned three different starters to Summit before I figured out what the heck was going on.

I've been digging into this starter and can't find many cars & trucks that used this one. Fwiw, my truck (which my grandpa bought new down in Charleston when I was two) has been in our family since it rolled off the lot. So I know it's the original motor and whatnot. Most 225s had blue or red painted blocks, but mine is one of those with the yellow engine. I've been told that different Mopar plants made the slant 6s and they each had their own color scheme. I also know that there were/are fewer of the yellow-painted 225s, like mine. Makes me wonder if that had something to do with the type of starters used.
 
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I just recently saw someone who had an old /6 starter in the classified. I don't remember if it was here or moparts.
They were selling as a core that they'd gotten as a spare but it had been sitting for years. Was pretty cheap as I remember.
 
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I have two 1964 Dodge trucks (slant 6 and 318 poly) and they both use a 3-bolt starter, they were used on manual transmission engines. They can be hard to find at local parts stores, but Rockauto.com has them. Search Rockauto for a 1964 D100 225 then pick a starter for a manual transmission.

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There is no mini starter that interchanges for that. Those starters have worked fine for sixty plus years. I would replace it or rebuild it since that is your only choice.
 
Give that used starter a good soaking (spray) of WD-40 inside and out, then blow it all out.

Then run it up on the bench with a fresh good battery and a set of jumper cables.

That will loosen it up with no load on it, helps to clean up the armature and brushes and cycle the solenoid multiple times.

Good Luck, would like to see that stump grinder in action.

☆☆☆☆☆
 
64sweptline said:
I'm just now putting my '64 D100 back together and realized that I have the same 1889100 starter (including the same G1889067 head casting) on my slant 6.
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Yup, trucks with the 225 engine and the big clutch got this direct-drive starter. Rebuilders used to call this the "Chrysler tin-can starter" back when they had occasion to talk about this starter.

64sweptline said:
Most 225s had blue or red painted blocks, but mine is one of those with the yellow engine. I've been told that different Mopar plants made the slant 6s and they each had their own color scheme.
Click to expand...

That's not it; see here.

64sweptline said:
he yellow-painted 225s, like mine. Makes me wonder if that had something to do with the type of starters used.
Click to expand...

Nope…
 
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