Subframe Connector dilemma

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I have question, when installing them,don't you check the straightness and square of the car 1st?I was helping in an installation about ten years ago.I remember stringing the axles to make sure the distance between the front and rear axles were the same.Run a string from the center of the rear wheel on one side to the front wheel on the same side of the car.Also we made sure the car was level.
Thanks
 
cuda2ya said:
Hey I gaurentee to weld to the floor pans youll eventually crack the pans when the chassis twists to the torque It will cracknext to the weld. They will work OK for a while,but will crack.
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How bad do stock floor pans crack at the back of the front subframe mounts, and the front edge of the rear frame boxes, where they all tie into the floors? The point of subframe connectors is to keep the front and rear of the car from flexing, twisting and torquing... the stress points are where the front and rear subframes meet the un-framed body/floor pan. By virtue of the fact that we're talking about subframe connectors, we admit these are highly flexing areas, hence the need to install something to eliminate that flex.

Have any of us seen badly cracked floor pans? (from cars that WEREN'T raced every weekend from 1970 to 1977 :-D )

If those highly stressed areas aren't cracked from what the cars have been through, the contoured subframe connectors welded the entire length of the floor pan aren't going to crack the floors.

-Brad
 
I have a 66 Dodge Dart GT with it full mini tub and has HNRA roll bar in it ,8 3/4 with 3:91 posi drive shaft guard with a built 904 and this has a Brand NEW 360 =380 small block it has never been run..The guy that I built it for done did pass away and now Iam stuck with and would like to make a deal with somebody. I know I am not going to get all my money but would like to recoupe some of it. The body is nice but I missing the hood & deck lid . Have the front bucket seats. I can Post some pictures of it tomorrow Oh its has the big bolt disc brakes and the big bolt racing axles oh it has the frame connectors. I could come up whit the hood and deck lid. Maybe I will bring it to MOPARs at THE STRIP

I should move this over to the for sale page but do'nt know how
 
dart64gt said:
I have a 66 Dodge Dart GT with it full mini tub and has HNRA roll bar in it ,8 3/4 with 3:91 posi drive shaft guard with a built 904 and this has a Brand NEW 360 =380 small block it has never been run..The guy that I built it for done did pass away and now Iam stuck with and would like to make a deal with somebody. I know I am not going to get all my money but would like to recoupe some of it. The body is nice but I missing the hood & deck lid . Have the front bucket seats. I can Post some pictures of it tomorrow Oh its has the big bolt disc brakes and the big bolt racing axles oh it has the frame connectors. I could come up whit the hood and deck lid. Maybe I will bring it to MOPARs at THE STRIP

I should move this over to the for sale page but do'nt know how
Click to expand...

At least it has the one thing this thread is about, SUBFRAME CONNECTORS :toothy10:
 
I went with the "build your own" type out of some rectangular stock wide enough to slide over the frame at the rear but short enough not to go through the floor. Total cost was about $50.
Personal experience of handling improvements:
The car seems more "sure footed" - before the connectors were in it felt like it always had a low tire, but maybe that was just in my head.


Brad, My 73 /6 duster had some tears in the floor at the trans cross member spot welds among other places. Obviously not a race car, BUT the car did have a tow hitch on it and I found an old registration for a 14' boat in the glove box. So my 73 has seen it's share of beatings.
 
I know this is an older post but I thought sub frame connectors would give you better handling in the twisties like anti roll bars. From what I am now understanding is that these are to stop you car from twisting under flat out acceleration....I also don't likethe idea of cutting holes in a car.

To get better handling, other than the normal suspension bits, is there anything else I can do ?

Thanks
ian.
 
grassy said:
I know this is an older post but I thought sub frame connectors would give you better handling in the twisties like anti roll bars. From what I am now understanding is that these are to stop you car from twisting under flat out acceleration....I also don't likethe idea of cutting holes in a car.

To get better handling, other than the normal suspension bits, is there anything else I can do ?

Thanks
ian.
Click to expand...

It helps for both. Twisties stop the frame from twisting at the floor boards. And straight line, stops the body from "torquing" at the floorboards.
look up XVMotorsports.com stuff, they can give you ideas of other mods you can do
 
Just my .02, but I don't like to cut up floor pan for mostly street car. You can get the same effect with 2X2 or 2X3 rectangular tubing that lays up against bottom of floor pan. Welded to rear subframe and to front subframe. It has worked fine with my 408 Duster that has two years track and street duty also.
 
Also keep in mind that if you're considering autocross or other sanctioned road racing you should look at the rules before you go with any through the floorboard style frame connectors. In many cases this will put you in a different racing class, often in the open or unrestricted classes where competition will be fierce.
 
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