SUCCESS! Broken Dipstick Tube Removal Write up

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streetdak

streetdak

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So, I posted a help thread the other day when I found out my dipstick tube was cracked. Needless to say, I tried to remove it and it snapped like I had figured.

Well I've done this once before in my old 318, and I used the same method I did that time, with successful results. So I figured I should take a few pics and write up a lil tutorial on how I've been able to get it done for those in need.

Now I believe this will work the majority of the time, however I must say it may not work for everyone, and I think this will be most successful if you have not mangled or altered the remaining broken tube while attempting to remove it.

This write-up uses the Mechanical Fuel Pump as a Piviot. Please use caution, may not work for those with electrical fuel pumps, however may give some tips for those of you on a way to come up with your own tool.

First tip, remove the alternator and set it aside, reveling just the mechanical fuel pump with clear vision of where the dipstick tube enters the block.

You need to find either a long bolt or some all-thread (redfish suggested the all-thread so kudo's to him) that will basically fit in the remaining tube in the block. It has to fit tight enough that you can feel it start to thread with a 1/2 to 1 full turn of the bolt.

TIP, I used a stock battery hold down bolt, just happened to thread right in. It is about 8 or 9 inches long Not sure of the thread size, maybe someone can clear that up for me.

longbolt.jpg


(Now if your going to use all-thread, make sure you use 2 nuts to "double nut" the all-thread to create a bolt head.)

Once you find the correct sized bolt or all thread, start threading the bolt into the broken tube with just about 2 or three turns. Then back the bolt out.

Slide 3 things over the bolt. This is what worked for me
1 Deep 18mm socket 3/8 drive
1 Regular 18mm socket 3/8 drive
1 5/8 closed end of a combination wrench.

These are going to create your leverage to remove the tube, so make sure they slide over the bolt but not over the head.

With all the "Spacers" slid over the bolt, carefully insert the bolt in the broken tube. Start the thread again, and then continue to thread the bolt into the tube until the wrench is lying on the upper neck of the mechanical Fuel Pump. Make sure the bolt threads nicely and doesn't strip, you should feel resistance when "tapping" the bolt. You should thread the bolt at least 3/4 of an inch in to the tube.

The wrench should be fairly taught as a pivot resting on the upper arm of the mechanical fuel pump.

tool.jpg


Last step would be a simple couple wacks of the hammer on the end of the combination wrench while carefully keeping the combination wrench seated on the fuel pump arm.

It needs a decent initial whack to dislodge the tube but don't be a he man!
Once initially dislodged, a few taps will remove the remaining broken tube out of the block.

brokentube.jpg


Good Luck, and take your time, any questions please ask, I know this may be a little confusing and i'll try to take some more pics of the process.
 
I actually used a long masonry drill bit and was able to get it to "grab" onto the broken tube end and then was able to pull on it until it popped out.
 
Glad you got it out.
A slide hammer made of a 3 foot piece of all thread and about 10 inches of 1/2 inch schedule 80 black pipe works best for me.
The all tread is flexible enough to be used under the hood of any vehicle, any engine.
 
Hey guys, this is a great write up but unfortunately, it did not work for me. I'm working on my 72 Plymouth Satellite Wagon with a 318. I think the previous owner has done something to the dipstick housing and it's either really wedged in there beyond being able to pull it out or they must have put some sort of adhesive or epoxy in there. I have spent 2 days banging and pulling on an all thread that goes in the broken shaft pretty well, well over an inch but I just can't pull it out. at this point I'm worried about damaging something else, I have been using the alternator bracket for leverage and not the fuel pump so hopefully that's all good. But at this point I think there are probably some metal shavings in the oil pan so I will drain and fill new oil before I start the car. I'm pretty much all out of ideas at this point. I really don't feel like pulling the oil pan off as I'm not even sure that I can push it out from in there. I feel like I have 2 options at this point.

1. Either find a machine shop that can take the new dipstick shaft and machine the tip down as much as possible and then hope that it can go down through the existing shaft or use a Dremel and grind down the outside of the new shaft tip and then make 2 cuts in it from the ridge to the end about 1" or so and have it collapse and hopefully that will make it fit inside the existing shaft. Then use some sort of adhesive or maybe JB Weld to seal it from the the outside.

2. Leave it as is and just put a bolt or leave the all thread in there so it doesn't leak oil and live without a dipstick and take the alternator out every time I want to check the oil.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

- Amar
 
I always drop the oil pan and use a Nut Driver (You know, the screwdriver with a socket end). I believe I used the 8mm one, and just use it to tap the broken piece of the dipstick tube back up out of the block.
 
I borrowed my buddies slide hammer with a cone shaped threaded end on it and had it out in two taps of the slide
 
Local hardware stores have split collar clamps that could be mounted very low on the tube. drill and add a couple of threaded push bolts. Never tried it but I think it would work.
 
amar67 said:
Hey guys, this is a great write up but unfortunately, it did not work for me. I'm working on my 72 Plymouth Satellite Wagon with a 318. I think the previous owner has done something to the dipstick housing and it's either really wedged in there beyond being able to pull it out or they must have put some sort of adhesive or epoxy in there. I have spent 2 days banging and pulling on an all thread that goes in the broken shaft pretty well, well over an inch but I just can't pull it out. at this point I'm worried about damaging something else, I have been using the alternator bracket for leverage and not the fuel pump so hopefully that's all good. But at this point I think there are probably some metal shavings in the oil pan so I will drain and fill new oil before I start the car. I'm pretty much all out of ideas at this point. I really don't feel like pulling the oil pan off as I'm not even sure that I can push it out from in there. I feel like I have 2 options at this point.

1. Either find a machine shop that can take the new dipstick shaft and machine the tip down as much as possible and then hope that it can go down through the existing shaft or use a Dremel and grind down the outside of the new shaft tip and then make 2 cuts in it from the ridge to the end about 1" or so and have it collapse and hopefully that will make it fit inside the existing shaft. Then use some sort of adhesive or maybe JB Weld to seal it from the the outside.

2. Leave it as is and just put a bolt or leave the all thread in there so it doesn't leak oil and live without a dipstick and take the alternator out every time I want to check the oil.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

- Amar
Click to expand...


If the threads are holding, you need to adapt to a real slide hammer and pull it out. Before you pull a pan.
 
Update... So I have tried pulling and yanking on the 12" all thread I have screwed into the broken tube. I pulled so hard using the alternator bracket as for leverage I actually have started to chew up the alternator bracket. I took it to a machine shop and asked if he can either trim down the new tube'd diameter enough to wedge it in the old tube or maybe even take the all thread and weld the end of the dipstick to the end of it and I'll just use the all thread as a dipstick. The all thread stays in there very well and it goes in about 3/4". The guy at the machine shop suggested I just leave it as is with the all thread in there and don't mess with it. He said it's not worth it. He says he builds race engines all the time and never puts dip sticks in there as they are prone to blowing out. So for now I'm riding around with a nice shiny all thread sticking out from the block between the alternator and A/C compressor. Guess it will be a conversation starter at the local cruise in... :)
 
12 inch piece of all thread is your problem. Look at it this way... If you pulled the oil pan to access the tube from underneath, would you create a way to push the tube out or use a drift and hammer to drive it out ? Push/pull aint the method. Knock it in, knock it out. Slide hammer knocks in reverse. I use a piece of 5/16 all thread about 3 feet long. I have a 10 inch piece of 3/4 inch schd' 80 black pipe I drop on the all thread because its heavy, then a heavy flat washer and a nut.This creates a slide hammer. If I was a body man I might have a actual slide hammer to use.

Back in the 80s Fords V8s had the dip stick tube at rear and no tether or bracket. To stand by the fender and pull the dip stick out was the proper way. To stand at the front of a Town Car ( about a half mile away it seemed ) reach and pull the dipstick from this angle would break the tube all too often.
I don't know how many times my homemade slide hammer has saved the day at several shops and for many fellow workers, for many years.
 
RedFish said:
12 inch piece of all thread is your problem. Look at it this way... If you pulled the oil pan to access the tube from underneath, would you create a way to push the tube out or use a drift and hammer to drive it out ? Push/pull aint the method. Knock it in, knock it out. Slide hammer knocks in reverse. I use a piece of 5/16 all thread about 3 feet long. I have a 10 inch piece of 3/4 inch schd' 80 black pipe I drop on the all thread because its heavy, then a heavy flat washer and a nut.This creates a slide hammer. If I was a body man I might have a actual slide hammer to use.

Back in the 80s Fords V8s had the dip stick tube at rear and no tether or bracket. To stand by the fender and pull the dip stick out was the proper way. To stand at the front of a Town Car ( about a half mile away it seemed ) reach and pull the dipstick from this angle would break the tube all too often.
I don't know how many times my homemade slide hammer has saved the day at several shops and for many fellow workers, for many years.
Click to expand...

Good point, I did buy a 2' all thread and was considering making some sort home made puller out of it and some scrap metal. But after talking to the machine shop guy, I decided to let it be. maybe I'll go get a 3' section and give your version of a home made slide hammer a try.

Thanks for the info!

- Amar
 
I will add what worked for me.....I simply used a 5/16-18 tap in the tube and tapped a half inch or little more...with a bottoming tap...as it will bring 99% of the chips out of which there is hardly any.....then I used a 5 or 6 inch long 5/16 bolt with a couple of deep sockets over it and used it like a puller....the tube came right out.....then used the micro attachments on my shop vac to clean hole and changed oil...
I did try the pry bar way and could not get it to budge....the way I did it worked like a charm...
 
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