Ok.
Suggestions for knock sensor location?
- Thread starter MazdaRX8/6
- Start date
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MazdaRX8/6
Active Member
The Haltech guy told me which specific sensor to buy and where to try and put it. I'm mounting my LS coils using those two holes on top of the head.
MazdaRX8/6
Active Member
The Google machine found this:
slantsixdan
=..=
All engines have a mechanical valve actuation system; guessing he means solid (vs. hydraulic). You have hydraulics, you said.
MazdaRX8/6
Active Member
Surely someone has put a knock sensor on a slant 6 before. I can't imagine this is a new idea.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
MazdaRX8/6
Active Member
Thanks. That was way back in 2016. I'm really leaning toward drilling into that rib above the center core plug.
Jarlaxle
Well-Known Member
I recall GM has put them under intake manifolds since the 90s.
That looks awfully close to the exhaust...it won't get too hot?
MazdaRX8/6
Active Member
At the risk of being a heretic or something worse, I'm back with more knock sensor postulations. I did a bit of real measuring of that internal rib above the center core plug and discovered (duh) that it contains a head bolt hole. But the head bolt hole is way deep. So deep that I am going to drill and tap the bottom of the hole for my knock sensor. Doing an exhaustive internet search, it seems that right about there is nearly the ideal location. Right under the two intake ports so heat will not be a problem. As you can see from these measurements, there is room to spare for the knock sensor to share a dry hole with a head bolt. The head bolt hole is 1.330 deep. The head bolt only goes about .750 into the head. Obviously, I will torque the head bolts down before installing the knock sensor bolt. Also, it might be noted that if someone were to cut the deck or head substantially this idea might not work. I'm using long rods and Chrysler 2.2 pistons so they will come all the way to the top of the deck. We shall see if it works.
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WHICH pistons, exactly? I ask because none will come all the way to the top of the deck. They will all require the block to be decked to get zero deck height. As an example, the long rod motor on my stand out in the shop needed .055 milled off the block to get the pistons to .007" in the hole at TDC.
MazdaRX8/6
Active Member
MazdaRX8/6
Active Member
Silvolite 1292-STD. 1.571" CH plus 7.005 rod gives me 8.576" compared to stock which is 1.750 CH plus 6.699 gives me 8.449. I'm .150 in the hole now. I am not trying to get zero deck, no point in that. But if I needed to cut the .024 to get zero deck I still have room for a 8mm (5/16' .3215) bolt. Plenty of room. Am I missing something?
Those have the same compression height as mine. In fact, I still have the brand new set I mocked up first in the block. They set up the same at .007" below the deck. The only difference is, the 1292 has a dish and my current pistons are flat tops with one long valve relief. You'll need to cut more than .024 to get zero deck. They'll probably sit similar to mine at "around" .060 in the hole. Still a lot better than stock. How would I know if you're missing anything? What are you supposed to be missing?
There are what I have in my engine. Same compression height as yours.
www.summitracing.com
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MazdaRX8/6
Active Member
Thank you. I did the calculation and I am thinking I need the dish to run pump gas. I calculated 9.4:1. I don't really want a radical cam to run higher compression. I am still in the planning stage so I can change now if I get better information. I just know I want the long rods and short pistons to decrease weight and ring drag. I'm looking for fun and snappy.There are what I have in my engine. Same compression height as yours.
DODGE Silvolite 1293.STD Silv-O-Lite Cast Pistons | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Silv-O-Lite Cast Pistons with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Pistons at Summit Racing.
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My high compression with the engine in the car now was an accident. The head was accidentally milled crooked and to get it back straight required a total of about .180". The chambers went from 58cc to 34cc. I had no alternative but to utilize that head. So I had to choose a cam with a 70 degree intake valve closing event. It's pretty gnarly, but it worked out because it runs really well.
lot of small block chevys are down by the crank.....
that looks like a bosch sensor
make sure the wires are shielded high voltage will f-with those
that looks like a bosch sensor
make sure the wires are shielded high voltage will f-with those
MazdaRX8/6
Active Member
I've had a hard time getting good information on the best location.
Man, you go ahead and drill the block. But I tell you what. Danged if I wouldn't TRY the cylinder head first.
I was thinking where the bell housing bracket
Was by the starter
Was by the starter
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