diymirage
HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
Best i can tell, yes
Summit brand smallblock rods Any good
- Thread starter 318boy
- Start date
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Yes
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
I put Scat rods in my 273. It was cheaper to use them than it was to have my old ones reworked. My machinist checked the Scats and they all weighed exactly the same. Big ends were all exactly the same weight and so were all of the little ends.
To the OP @318boy , if you use the aftermarket rods, look at the big end and see if they are chamfered only on one side. If so, that chamfer needs to be turned towards the outside of the rod journal on each side. Another way of saying that so it might make sense is the flat sides need to be facing each other in the middle. For example, cylinder 1 rod chamfer faces the front of the engine and cylinder 2 faces the rear of the engine.
To the OP @318boy , if you use the aftermarket rods, look at the big end and see if they are chamfered only on one side. If so, that chamfer needs to be turned towards the outside of the rod journal on each side. Another way of saying that so it might make sense is the flat sides need to be facing each other in the middle. For example, cylinder 1 rod chamfer faces the front of the engine and cylinder 2 faces the rear of the engine.
318 rods will handle 400hp all day long.
JDmopar ‘s oath is what I’d do. Re doing OEM rods is probably more expensive than new rods.
318boy
Member
Just ordered Scat rods , might as well keep everything fresh and dont want to go overboard with the stock stuff and possible extra crank balancing with added weight
thats 100% vaid. probably cheaper to buy new if the stockers need work.
It’s been that way every time for me.
i actually meant to quote your post. lol. yup! i agree. like that with most things these days.
Bobzilla
Well-Known Member
Awesome. Thanks for posting this.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Their stuff is on point. I recently used a scat rotating assembly (rods/crank) for the big block in my boat. Every measurement was perfect in every way. Other than cleaning the oil off from shipping, nothing was needed.
Although back in the day we did all kind of **** with stock rods, today I would not recommend it. Why would anyone want to cheap out on one of the most important and stressed components in your engine. What is the total cost difference in the entire build. I'll be rebuilding a 340 soon that I built 25-30 years ago maybe longer. Used stock rods then but just never trusted it above 6000. It will not have stock ones now. That's just me.
Have had my stock rods to 6800 many many times. The OEM is a forged rod and it is darn good, heavy duty next to other makes. The rod itself is heavy. A lot of weight can come off. That process is expensive and time consuming. This is where the next level rod is cheaper, easier & makes sense in that route. Otherwise, the power it can handle is pretty stout.
I don’t see the re use of the OEM rod as cheaping out.
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
Exactly. Using OE rods certainly isn’t cheating out because it’s expensive to do them.
I turned OE rods 7500 for a long time and never hurt one.
The weakest link is the 3/8 bolt and nut rather than a 7/16 cap screw. Other than that, the OE SBM rod is pretty bitchin’. Oh, and the cost lol
True true! There a beefy rod that can loose a lot of weight and in letting a pro shop doing so, it’s expensive as “F!”
If one choose to try it themselves, I’m sure it would be a big PIA. It would really only require a set up to weigh and balance the rod and a die grinder and some bits to do the work. I know it’s a lot of work, but that’s the choice now isn’t it?
Work vs EZ button
If one choose to try it themselves, I’m sure it would be a big PIA. It would really only require a set up to weigh and balance the rod and a die grinder and some bits to do the work. I know it’s a lot of work, but that’s the choice now isn’t it?
Work vs EZ button
Yep the rod bolt size! And we sprayed a stock rod hi-comp, roller cam 440 motor to almost death and I would guess with the spray 900 horses, and the shifter stuck more than once in 2nd and who knows how far that puppy went, but my point is why redo the stock rods and save only a couple of dollars vs better new rods that haven't been twisted to 9000 grand. Anyone out there with a current price on rebuilding the rods and new arp bolts. What's the total cost of doing the motor? Just a guess min. 5k so saving 4%. So, in my world saving 100-200 bucks or so when rebuilding a motor is cheaping out.
I agree with that to a point and that’s if you yourself don’t mind doing the work on the stock rods and the flip is, if you have the money for it.
Ether way, a factory rod, NOT RACE ABUSED, is a good rod candidate for high performance use.
Ether way, a factory rod, NOT RACE ABUSED, is a good rod candidate for high performance use.
I agree the rods are good just too small a bolt. And how do you know where they came from. Although I haven't broke one but I have seen them break, mostly bolts and then you lose the block and all the machine work, the heads and maybe the car when you oil the track/street. It's just my 2 cents. But either way I wish everyone the best on their builds.
I had a set redone last year - ARP bolts fitted, resized and set up for floating pins, $300 to the machine shop & $100 for the arp bolts.
The Scat I beams are around the $800 mark to purchase locally.
I would imagine the gap between buying new vs having the stock rods rebuilt would be much less in America.
Was there a rod weight in the box?
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
When I had the rods resized in my 360 by a local machine shop, he charged me 11 dollars a rod plus the price of ARP rod bolts. About $200 bucks out the door. They still were a pressed pin rod. I think I prefer a floating pin like the 340’s were.
I probably shoulda had a set of 340 rods resized, at the time…
I probably shoulda had a set of 340 rods resized, at the time…
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