Supporting engine with trans removed

-
block of wood on the steering cross link... never had a problem
car can be moved back and forward... no steering... suits me well enough move it back to get engine crane away from garage door opening unit in the roof if pulling out motor.
tuck wood into the 90* corner of the pan/bowl rest on cross link if not pulling out motor
choose appropriate thickness to facilitate the kinda droop you want...

droop it on thin wood give access to easily take off bell/trans, jack it back up and sit it in the same position it would be in which the trans on the back, with a block of thick wood

not saying its right..... but have not suffered from any wrongness in 20 years of doing it and same engine mounts....
standard K, A body Pan, long 6 cylinder engine... works ok

Dave
 
Also make sure the car is high enough to remove the trans from under the car once out.

I used 2x6s under the plastic ramps and a 2x4 as a stopper to raise it.
That extra 2", real 2x6s, made all the difference.

That was with a 4 speed, lowered on a jack, then placed on floor to slide out.
 
Thanks Matt, I just finished making another set of cribs, hopefully that's enough or im off to lumber yard lol.
matthon said:
Also make sure the car is high enough to remove the trans from under the car once out.

I used 2x6s under the plastic ramps and a 2x4 as a stopper to raise it.
That extra 2", real 2x6s, made all the difference.

That was with a 4 speed, lowered on a jack, then placed on floor to slide out.
Click to expand...

20251125_094315.jpg
 

Dave999 said:
block of wood on the steering cross link... never had a problem...
Click to expand...

Ditto.

A support bar won't hurt and does give you some more room as you don't have anything in the way supporting the pan (don't wreck your paint) but is unnecessary in my opinion. I remember pulling my A833 4 speed back in the day with no floor jacks and the bare minimum of tools, laying on my back. Was I stronger or dumber? I don't know. :) A few days ago I got my wife to help me lift the A833 onto the 4 1/2 ft high transmission jack so I could roll it under the the 4 post lift. I knew my back would complain if I did it. Maybe I'm a bit smarter now. How things change.

ps I found out that the engine had come to rest with the oil filter on the frame rail. I guess that works too.
 
Thanks Matt, wrestling with the damn thing right now! Floor jack is maxed and im 1/8" away from getting rear ps crib in!! Ps "droops" lower than ds.
Cribs are 2x4, 10"w× 19 1/2". Rear tires are 245×60.
Paint is original color, ZZ1, I think it's called Poly Gold? Maybe Spanish gold, I cant remember. You actually broke the ftag down for me before me and dad went to CO and got it.
matthon said:
I need to do that.
What are the dimensions of yours?
Might be a bit too skinny for my rear 275s though.

Btw, your car is awesome. Is it factory 67 Gold Metallic?
Click to expand...
 
Place a floor jack underneath the oil pan. The jack allows you to adjust the height of the engine precisely as you align the transmission for removal and reinstallation.
 
Steve, are you pulling the trans because it needs repair?
Or are you putting in a converter that will work better with your cam?
 
A little of both Todd. It has a slight flare between shifts, could use a slight bump in stall and i haven't gone thru it(other than filter) in 13 years we've owned it.
Ive no idea what stall it is now and am thinking maybe a new tc slightly above stock 340?
S'cuder said:
Steve, are you pulling the trans because it needs repair?
Or are you putting in a converter that will work better with your cam?
Click to expand...
 
4spdragtop said:
A little of both Todd. It has a slight flare between shifts, could use a slight bump in stall and i haven't gone thru it(other than filter) in 13 years we've owned it.
Ive no idea what stall it is now and am thinking maybe a new tc slightly above stock 340?
Click to expand...
I like the idea of the new converters the are tight for cruising but flash higher to get right up in the power band. But I have no idea how to match a cam and converter to get a combo in which they each complement one another.
 
Yeah I know nothing about tc's other then there are 2 chunks to installing them lol. Can't remember the cam specs, but pretty sure the pwr band is like 3-6500....doh...
S'cuder said:
I like the idea of the new converters the are tight for cruising but flash higher to get right up in the power band. But I have no idea how to match a cam and converter to get a combo in which they each complement one another.
Click to expand...
 
I pulled my engine and trany out from the top last fall and I will never do that again ! I run headers and by the time I was done jacking around with the header, starter , trany lines etc it would have been far quicker to just lift the body up and pull engine/trany/kmember and suspension. Like I have been doing for years . Got lazy and thought it would be quicker this time… wrong !
Well the balance job was wrong on the new engine so I had to pull it again last week . This time I did it the factory way .

IMG_2880.jpeg


IMG_2885.jpeg


IMG_2889.jpeg


IMG_2886.jpeg
 
4spdragtop said:
Yeah I know nothing about tc's other then there are 2 chunks to installing them lol. Can't remember the cam specs, but pretty sure the pwr band is like 3-6500....doh...
Click to expand...
That's gotta be a beast blasting down the 407 at 140 KPM! Right in the sweet spot. Not sure how much I'd want to be dicing with the ricers with my vintage tin, though. The right converter could definitely help in around-town cruising. I'm not the right guy to ask which one.
 
Thanks Todd, Ive been nursing it mainly for breakin. Havent had it over 80(mph) yet lol. I've been impressed with the reliability....so far. Sounds like an exhaust leak on pass side, trans leak and ps leak lol. With all the oil, not a chance of any rust starting lol.
Next meet-up I'll bring it, now that I trust it lol.
S'cuder said:
That's gotta be a beast blasting down the 407 at 140 KPM! Right in the sweet spot. Not sure how much I'd want to be dicing with the ricers with my vintage tin, though. The right converter could definitely help in around-town cruising. I'm not the right guy to ask which one.
Click to expand...

20251120_172056.jpg


20251120_172117.jpg
 
If you are looking to have your torque converter redone Steve, I used J&K Torque Converters in New Hamburg and they did a great job. They can adjust the stall speed for you within reason.
 
Dana67Dart said:
I would cut a 2x4 the width of the inner fender and hang it from there. If you want to distribute the load better cut some 6 inch long pieces and put a towel down on the fender first then put the 2x4 on edge on them. Fit and screwed together before installation would be a good idea.

In my drawing the 2x4 is not on edge but it would be MUCH stronger on edge OR a 4x4. The back of the engine is probably 1/2 to 2/3 of the total weight of the engine so 200 to 300 lbs

View attachment 1716482144
Click to expand...
This is what I built!

IMG_5298.jpeg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Similar threads

Muswagon
Supporting the engine?
Replies
20
Views
3K
Dale Davies
D
Y
Supporting Torque Converter with Engine Out
Replies
12
Views
1K
YO7_A66
Y
Samsquanch
supporting engine in car without 904 transmission installed?
Replies
15
Views
1K
Inertia
Inertia
crewchief
Supporting auto transmission
Replies
11
Views
1K
CudaFactHackJob
C
plumkrazee70
Supporting motor with out trans
Replies
6
Views
718
Inertia
Inertia
Back
Top Bottom