Suspension parts list. What's missing?

-
NukeSec1

NukeSec1

DUSTinguished
Joined
Apr 23, 2010
Messages
186
Reaction score
0
Location
Illinois
2 Upper ball joints.
2 Lower ball joints.
4 inner and outter tie rods.
2 connector sleeves for tie rods.
2 lower control arm torsion bar bushings.
4 upper control arm bushings
4 new upper control arm bolts
??? the bushings on the K Frame to the tie rod that goes to the lower control arm?
Sway bar bushings.

Am I missing anything? The K frame is going to be removed and cleaned, painted and reinstalled. Do I need the torsion bar removal/installation tool? Or can I fabricate something to get the job done?
 
If you loosen the torsion bar all of the way, take off the nut that holds the lower arm, and remember to remove the clip at the back of the torsion bar, the whole assembly will slide back and then you can separate the bar from the lower arm. You need no special tools for this. You're tearing the whole thing down, anyway, you don't need to remove the bar first. You only need the tool if you are trying to leave everything else assembled.
 
sounds like you got everything....Those

"??? the bushings on the K Frame to the tie rod that goes to the lower control arm?"

are strut rod bushings. lol

what year car is this for? and what are your plans for it?
 
I have a book on Mopars suspension(not a actual Mopar book)that shows a pair of aftermarket shackles clamping the torsion bar being used as a torsion bar removal tool.
 
NukeSec1 said:
2 Upper ball joints.
2 Lower ball joints.
4 inner and outter tie rods.
2 connector sleeves for tie rods.
2 lower control arm torsion bar bushings.
4 upper control arm bushings
4 new upper control arm bolts
??? the bushings on the K Frame to the tie rod that goes to the lower control arm?
Sway bar bushings.

Am I missing anything? The K frame is going to be removed and cleaned, painted and reinstalled. Do I need the torsion bar removal/installation tool? Or can I fabricate something to get the job done?
Click to expand...

Even with a stock type front end rebuild with rubber bushings you should install Moog p/n 7103 offset bushings. Don't install them per the instructions in the package.

Install them per these instructions:

Moog7103bushingInstall.jpg
 
Bump stops 2 upper , 2 lower. stabilizer end link kits.
and this " ??? the bushings on the K Frame to the tie rod that goes to the lower control arm? " is strut rod bushings
 
autoxcuda said:
Even with a stock type front end rebuild with rubber bushings you should install Moog p/n 7103 offset bushings. Don't install them per the instructions in the package.

Install them per these instructions:

Moog7103bushingInstall.jpg
Click to expand...

So other than positive caster, what is the benefit of doing this? Will the tires wear better? Will it cause them to prematurely wear? I'm not a suspension geometry engineer. However I do have my masters in being clueless at times. LOL!
 
Thanks for the peer check on the parts list everybody. I did overlook a few items (and forgot the proper names). This will be for my sons '73 Duster and it will see mostly street use as well as a few trips to the track. Sorry I forgot to mention that in the original post. The pitman arm? Does it differ for a P/S box and a manual steering box? We are undecided at this point as to which box we are going to use. I'm leaning toward the manual steering box at this time.
 
nukesec1 it is to give you more caster which will help the car track straighter and beter alignment settings or more adjustment when setting.camber or the in and out of the top of the tire will give you tire wear. and with the off set bushing will let you set the ride height were u like it beter. toe in or out will wear tire too. but the alignment will take care of that.
 
Pitman and idler arms can be a real puzzle, depending on what year model components are used. The ball stud ends where they connect to the center/drag link flipped from pointed up to pointed down. The splined shafts changed at both ends of the steering gears too. I can't keep those differences sorted in my memory. I suggest you measure input shaft diameters on steering gears and measure hex nut size on the output shafts before purchasing or installing a different steering gear.
 
alsdemon said:
nukesec1 it is to give you more caster which will help the car track straighter and beter alignment settings or more adjustment when setting.camber or the in and out of the top of the tire will give you tire wear. and with the off set bushing will let you set the ride height were u like it beter. toe in or out will wear tire too. but the alignment will take care of that.
Click to expand...

Ok, this is what grabbed me about your response...."more caster which will help the car track straighter and better alignment settings, etc....). Because we all know how sloppy and unresponsive the stock steering is in these older Mopar cars. This makes sense to me now, positioning the upper ball joint over the lower to provide more caster. I've driven a few friends Mopar products and afterwards thought "Wow, what sloppy steering."
 
RedFish said:
Pitman and idler arms can be a real puzzle, depending on what year model components are used. The ball stud ends where they connect to the center/drag link flipped from pointed up to pointed down. The splined shafts changed at both ends of the steering gears too. I can't keep those differences sorted in my memory. I suggest you measure input shaft diameters on steering gears and measure hex nut size on the output shafts before purchasing or installing a different steering gear.
Click to expand...

The project car ('73 Duster 340/auto car w/ P/S) vs the parts car ('73 Duster /6 3spd car with manual steering). All being the same, the steering boxes should drop in with little change. Am I right?
 
Torsion bar boots, cam bolts, and new torsion bars, if you are keeping the old torsion bars mark them for left/right and front/rear and don't scar them. New shocks.
Don't forget a couple of cans of PB blaster!!
 
NukeSec1 said:
The project car ('73 Duster 340/auto car w/ P/S) vs the parts car ('73 Duster /6 3spd car with manual steering). All being the same, the steering boxes should drop in with little change. Am I right?
Click to expand...

The power steering column is shorter than the manual one and has a different spline count. If you swap the box from the parts car, swap the column as well or use the power to manual coupler from Mancini's. FWIW the '73 up manual steering pitman arm is getting hard to find and quite pricey. :angry7:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top