Sway bar on street strip car yes or no

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'68cuda416 said:
So now we're going to shift direction to ARB'S (anti roll bars) ? It sure doesn't sound by the OP's vehicle description, albeit it limited, that he has a hard leaving, body twisting drag car and long before I would consider a ARB setup I think sub frame connectors should be installed.
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gottem .
 
B3422w5 said:
they make anti roll bars for such cars. Much sturdier and thicker. The two bare little resemblance in functionality regards a high horsepower, lopsided leaving drag car
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so far , mine doesnt leave hard enough to get lopsided !--------------lol
 
Yes, Leave it on for the street. and take one link out on one side for the track. That is what I did with SS springs.

These cars have a bad lean on the street without the stabilizer bar.

Once I put the caltracs on and able to control torque weight transfer I just left it hooked up.

The difference I saw was with 002-003 SS springs. Then you need to remove a link because you had no adjustment. With SS springs you also have to level the front while the rear was on a jack in the center. When you leave it down the car will lean due to the larger spring pack on the right rear. One turn up on the left front levels it for the street and take the one turn back out of the left front for the track.

You don't need to do this for the Calvert mono leafs. set-em and forget-em. Leave the bar on if its dual purpose with calverts.
 
A stock "handling" rear bar, no. There are drag racing rear bars, designed to eliminate twist on launch, but they seem to be used primarily on factory four link rear suspensions, (malibus, chevelles, fox mustangs, etc).
I don't think he needs one of those for a full culvert rear suspension either.....
but I would never give a flat-out NO, without knowing more about what his car is doing, or why he's asking. Maybe it leaves like that black 1960 impala?
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Yes, Leave it on for the street. and take one link out on one side for the track. That is what I did with SS springs.

These cars have a bad lean on the street without the stabilizer bar.

Once I put the caltracs on and able to control torque weight transfer I just left it hooked up.

The difference I saw was with 002-003 SS springs. Then you need to remove a link because you had no adjustment. With SS springs you also have to level the front while the rear was on a jack in the center. When you leave it down the car will lean due to the larger spring pack on the right rear. One turn up on the left front levels it for the street and take the one turn back out of the left front for the track.

You don't need to do this for the Calvert mono leafs. set-em and forget-em. Leave the bar on if its dual purpose with calverts.
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So after the OP listens to everyone's answers of how to make a car go slower and add weight for no reason maybe you all will chime back in when his time slips are embarrassing and he cry's for help
 
33IMP said:
A stock "handling" rear bar, no. There are drag racing rear bars, designed to eliminate twist on launch, but they seem to be used primarily on factory four link rear suspensions, (malibus, chevelles, fox mustangs, etc).
I don't think he needs one of those for a full culvert rear suspension either.....
but I would never give a flat-out NO, without knowing more about what his car is doing, or why he's asking. Maybe it leaves like that black 1960 impala?
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How many Mopars with Cal tracs you seen leave like that twisted to hell black Impala? Come on now.....
 
Anto Roll Bars are a "if you have problem A then install these to hopefully correct problem A" nobody that I have heard of installs them on a Cal trac setup "just because"
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Yes, Leave it on for the street. and take one link out on one side for the track. That is what I did with SS springs.

These cars have a bad lean on the street without the stabilizer bar.

Once I put the caltracs on and able to control torque weight transfer I just left it hooked up.

The difference I saw was with 002-003 SS springs. Then you need to remove a link because you had no adjustment. With SS springs you also have to level the front while the rear was on a jack in the center. When you leave it down the car will lean due to the larger spring pack on the right rear. One turn up on the left front levels it for the street and take the one turn back out of the left front for the track.

You don't need to do this for the Calvert mono leafs. set-em and forget-em. Leave the bar on if its dual purpose with calverts.
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I had a 9 sec small tire 002/003 Duster street strip car. Ultra consistent car, wheelstander, hard leaving.
Never ever ran any sway bar on the car. Zero need. Unsure why anybody would use one( a sway bar )Mopar
 
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41F14791-3B2D-48CC-A576-52045EBD2013.jpeg
There is a place for the BIG over the axle splined bars. I know this is apples to hand grenades comparision, but a big bar really helped this car.
 
Pie, fry, large coffee. Yall got that in there?
 
Hmmm.. I have rear sway bars on both my cars and although I havent had them to the track yet I can tell you they both track very straight while doing long burnouts . And they handle like a dream ! I would trade a tenth for the enhanced driving experience.
 
mbaird said:
Hmmm.. I have rear sway bars on both my cars and although I havent had them to the track yet I can tell you they both track very straight while doing long burnouts . And they handle like a dream ! I would trade a tenth for the enhanced driving experience.
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most cars( on flat road) track very straight doing a burnout, assuming posi is working without a sway car.
Frankly, a sway bar is used in cornering/ body roll has little if anything to do with a straight line.
Find it hard to believe people are even wanting to debate that point.
If I had a car that was seeing strip duty first thing I would remove would be any sway bars
 
Well after rereading the OP it appears his car is set up more for drag than street so its a moot point .
 
mbaird said:
Hmmm.. I have rear sway bars on both my cars and although I haven't had them to the track yet I can tell you they both track very straight while doing long burnouts . And they handle like a dream ! I would trade a tenth for the enhanced driving experience.
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Save your money....I doubt an 8-9 second 1/8th mile pass is going to get you excited......keep your rear sway bar on the car and enjoy your enhanced driving.
 
'68cuda416 said:
I don't recall the OP ever asking about an ARB
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??

Sway Bar = Anti Roll Bar

Or are you talking about a Sway Bar/Anti Roll Bar setup specifically for Drag Racing?

If so, you're right he never specifically mentioned using it for Drag Racing.
 
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autoxcuda said:
??

Sway Bar = Anti Roll Bar

Or are you talking about a Sway Bar/Anti Roll Bar setup specifically for Drag Racing?

If so, you're right he never specifically mentioned using it for Drag Racing.
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swaybar= swaybar…front or rear
Anti roll bar= specific drag racing heavy duty dedicated piece, rear only
 
Thank you to all , i am not going to install one in the rear. Was reading were it helped plant the car to the track on take off . With that being said i never had one on a drag car before and they all ways went straight off the line. Thanks again
 
We don’t know near enough to answer the original question. Does he run 13’s or 9’s in the 1/4 mile?

Cal Tracs has a great customer service reputation. Call them and they will tell you what to do in your situation

many GM Drag cars use a rear bar.

I didn’t mean to disconnect both ends and let it fall to the track.
1WildRT said:
Why? Makes exactly zero difference.... Disconnected at one end is disconnected period...
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not really. Unless it is frame mounted with bearings there will be some stiffness to the motion, and if it is connected on one end that will pull there and not the other end.
 
413 said:
We don’t know near enough to answer the original question. Does he run 13’s or 9’s in the 1/4 mile?

Cal Tracs has a great customer service reputation. Call them and they will tell you what to do in your situation

many GM Drag cars use a rear bar.

I didn’t mean to disconnect both ends and let it fall to the track.


not really. Unless it is frame mounted with bearings there will be some stiffness to the motion, and if it is connected on one end that will pull there and not the other end.
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GM's are not Mopars thankfully and yes they need more help to work than badass Mopars do.
 
413 said:
We don’t know near enough to answer the original question. Does he run 13’s or 9’s in the 1/4 mile?

Cal Tracs has a great customer service reputation. Call them and they will tell you what to do in your situation

many GM Drag cars use a rear bar.

I didn’t mean to disconnect both ends and let it fall to the track.


not really. Unless it is frame mounted with bearings there will be some stiffness to the motion, and if it is connected on one end that will pull there and not the other end.
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13's or 9's makes no difference......that has no bearing on when someone would decide he/she needs a anti roll bar
 
'68cuda416 said:
13's or 9's makes no difference......that has no bearing on when someone would decide he/she needs a anti roll bar
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Yeah, Sure. because the set up is all the same right? And it don’t matter what gender the driver is. FI
 
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