Tame my 4-speed Stroker....

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100% FACT. Something has to give, or you **** parts out faster than you can replace them.

More RPM at launch isn't always better. Especially with something like a Pontiac. Or something making a big load of torque. Unless you can get way past peak torque when the two step comes off.

The clutch can't be abusing the tire. RPM, rotational inertia (like heavy flywheels) and an aggressive clutch will beat the tire to death, break parts and go slow if you can make it live.

Just some random thoughts from a life long bench racer.

More launch rpm gives you more power to work with, just need to know how to effectively harness that added energy.

Grant
 
More launch rpm gives you more power to work with, just need to know how to effectively harness that added energy.

Grant


LOL. Ok. The tire/chassis has to be able to take that RPM. Even Pro Stock and Comp don't leave that high.

Last time I knew it was 6000-6500 on the chip.
 
@weedburner : If I'm understanding how your clutch tamer works it basically controls how fast the clutch pedal is let out ie it allows the clutch to slip? If so I would assume a person would need to run a fairly aggressive clutch (non organic material) so that the clutch doesn't get glazed over from all that slipping right? My Centerforce Dual Friction **** the bed when racing a few weeks back and from what I can tell it was from getting too hot and glazing.


That's right. The clutch tamer controls how fast the pedal moves, and the throw out bearing. Like I said before...there is a big difference between slipping a clutch and the controlled application of the clutch. Two totally different things.

Sintered iron discs are designed for controlled application, not slipping. Again, two different things. If I was going to use a clutch tamer I'd probably use a rag disc, and just plan on changing the disc every 75 runs or so.

The material that Center Force uses (we used to call it Velve-Touch which was a brand name but it's the same stuff) actually detests being slipped.
 
@weedburner : If I'm understanding how your clutch tamer works it basically controls how fast the clutch pedal is let out ie it allows the clutch to slip? If so I would assume a person would need to run a fairly aggressive clutch (non organic material) so that the clutch doesn't get glazed over from all that slipping right? My Centerforce Dual Friction **** the bed when racing a few weeks back and from what I can tell it was from getting too hot and glazing.

The 'tamer only controls the pedal's return rate AFTER the clutch reaches it's hit point. The 'tamer's inner dial is the adjustment that determines where that hit point is. After the hit point, the 'tamer's outer adjustment then controls how long it takes to achieve full clutch clamp pressure.

Doesn't need to be aggressive, but ceramic/metallic does have more potential than organic. My car currently has dual friction, but has plenty of PP clamp to back it up.

Grant
 
LOL. Ok. The tire/chassis has to be able to take that RPM. Even Pro Stock and Comp don't leave that high.

Last time I knew it was 6000-6500 on the chip.

I have many customers with stock engines leaving @7700, a 7200 hit won't get you to the next round. They can leave that high because they don't rely on centrifugal assist as a factor for controlling the clutch hit.

That's right. The clutch tamer controls how fast the pedal moves, and the throw out bearing. Like I said before...there is a big difference between slipping a clutch and the controlled application of the clutch. Two totally different things.

They are totally different. The "controlled application of the clutch" that you seem to be talking about depends on rising centrifugal force to apply pressure needed for lockup, which also means that it requires a lower launch rpm to get the slipping required for launch. When "slipping a clutch" with the 'tamer, all the clamp pressure is already available at any rpm, you are just withholding some of that clamp temporarily at the throwout bearing to get the slipping required for launch. That's the key factor that allows you to leave at much higher rpm without overpowering the tire/chassis.

Grant
 
I don't anticipate earth shattering results. Suspension work is what's needed.
 
I don't anticipate earth shattering results. Suspension work is what's needed.

Far less suspension work required with a soft hit. It makes no sense to spend a lot of time/effort to control a harsh hit with suspension work when the harsh hit was the problem to begin with.

Grant
 
I think your idea of a harsh hit differs from mine.
I do believe the tamer is going to improve the hit, a softer hit.
 
I think your idea of a harsh hit differs from mine.
I do believe the tamer is going to improve the hit, a softer hit.


It's hard to type. It's easier to say. Like I've said before, I'm not a fan of the CT for two reasons. One is how it mounts. I'm not carving my car up to mount it.

The second is how it functions. Again, I can say it much easier than to type it. But I'm not a fan of keeping the pressure ring off the disc.

Also, if it worked as well as is claimed, and you can leave at valve float, every Pro Stock racer on the planet would have one. It would be less complicated to tune and you could leave at valve float. I don't see that happening. I have a hard time believing Greg Anderson and Jason Line are missing this ding beater tuning device.

For guys like Jpar, that don't want to spend the money on a clutch, and don't mind cutting and fitting to make the CT fit it's a much better way to do it than just letting the clutch beat the hell out of everything.

There are also guys who are screwed by ignorant rules that force them to use a pressure plate that isn't adjustable. The CT is the best option out there.

I'd bet right now I could go to you tube and find 50 videos of stick cars and 49 of them will be barking the tires in every gear change. Not only is that hard on parts, it's slower. Yet you can't get them to buy a clutch. Or even the CT. They never learn


For the umpteenth time, those are my views on the CT. Does it have a place? Yes. Is it the best way to get the job done. Not in my opinion. Is it better than just killing the tire. ABSOLUTELY.

If you won't buy a clutch or can't afford one, get a CT. You can lower your ET a bunch.
 
I think your idea of a harsh hit differs from mine.
I do believe the tamer is going to improve the hit, a softer hit.


Wish I'd have seen this before I posted. What is your definition of a harsh hit? I know guys still trying to run 3 and 9 way shocks and sticks. It's laughable.
 
just a fun video....If i can make it work.... Yeah i know its not a Mopar.
 
I had to check and make sure this was the race part of the forum, afraid to hack up the factory Dash...lol..
 
Send the T/A my way, I can help him out with that :)

Grant
I have to tell you there are some really smart people involved with both those cars that have been running stick cars for years. The orange car is a small block.:)
 
One nice thing is I have a good baseline on both of the tracks I go too. I haven't done any changes to timing or jetting since. If there's an improvement the time slip won't lie....
 
Not saying they are not impressive for the tires they run on, i'm saying if they changed their launch rpm and clutch hit to take full advantage of a good tire, those 120mph passes would be under 11.20.

Grant
 
Would have been nowhere to mount it in my race car either.

Some day you'll learn. I hope.
I know you're dying to turn this good thread which is about a clutch tamer into a battle....
You don't need to come from some high position saying that "I will learn!"
If you want it here it is - maybe one day you will learn how to fabricate on your race car and make brackets to make things work. And please don't even get me started in the whole what race car what time slip and all that craziness...
 
I know you're dying to turn this good thread which is about a clutch tamer into a battle....
You don't need to come from some high position saying that "I will learn!"
If you want it here it is - maybe one day you will learn how to fabricate on your race car and make brackets to make things work. And please don't even get me started in the whole what race car what time slip and all that craziness...


Evidently you just keep going without thinking. I was fabbing all my stuff long before you ever came along.
Your arrogance is appalling. My race car had FLOOR MOUNTED PEDALS that I made. All the clutch linkage as well as the throttle linkage, two sets of header, the 4 link twice because the first time I hung it like Art Morrison said to and they were wrong...want me to keep going??

You've got a long way to go to catch up to me. I don't have a mill, 2 lathes and a TIG welder in the shop just to take up space.

Grow up.


Edit: I forgot to meantion doing ALL my own machine work, all my own porting and all the tuning. Plus, other people PAY me to build their stuff.

You'll lose on this every single time.
 
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Well finally the first person I ever put on ignore. I finally had to do it so I can just get on with the thread I started here with this this clutch tamer. I totally lost my patience with this internet poser....
 
IMG_20190828_155402.jpg

I have my two step button connected to the back of my clutch. I'm sure I'll have to cut a couple of zip ties to slip the clutch Tamer bracket on. I'm just starting to do a little plotting and scheming under there. I swear I remember some member saying they were going to send away for some special bracket somebody made to make that two-step work...?
And not to worry I'll hang the damn thing from a string in the middle of my garage and build an a body around it if I have too...
 
Well finally the first person I ever put on ignore. I finally had to do it so I can just get on with the thread I started here with this this clutch tamer. I totally lost my patience with this internet poser....


Thank God you did. That's what's done when you don't have an answer.
 
They are fast, but they don't seem to take off very fast?

Exactly my point.

In another thread you are saying you wanted streetable and able to run 11’s.
These example are not only very mild mannered, but run well into the 11’s without worrying about having the killer 60’ times.

The FAST combos even look bone stock under the hood.

Just think how good they could run with headers, aftermarket intake and carb, good tires, etc....... you know...... the stuff you have.
 
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