Teenage budget build

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gunship

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I have a 360 that I am looking to build up for my 1973 duster. I am a teenager so money is short and I have no problem trading or using used or cheaper parts.
I do not have any specific HP goals just a nice street/strip engine, no need for A/C or power brakes.
I do not know a whole lot about what parts to use but I do understand engines. I was thinking either a 408 stroker motor or a full solid roller engine(or maybe I just don't know some of the downsides). any tips or combos?
 
Stroker and budget doesnt go together. Perhaps a budget number would help? Does your 360 you have run now? What kind of set up just stock? If this is primairly a street car and on a budget I would stay with a hyd flat tappet cam.
 
I guess I don't really have a set budget. I have a running 318 in the duster now so it is more like the more money the longer before I get the new engine done haha. the 360 is bonestock and as far as I know runs. I am in the process of tearing it down because I would like to start from scratch and have always wanted to build an engine. Im sorry I cant answer the budget question.
 
My advice to you is make sure the car is safe first before you go into the engine build process.
That means, are the brakes, tires, front suspension, rust issues especially in the frames and structural areas of the car good?
If so, then build a engine within the budget you can really afford, tell us how much money we're looking at.
Don't fall for the stroker engine hype unless you have a lot of money.
I don't care what any one says, they are not cheap to build, even on a budget.
I would just refreshen/rebuild the 360.
 
A budget should be in mind. With that said, if the car is running now then that gives you lots of time to work, scrimp and save for what you want out of the 360.

Come up with a plan for the build and work toward that goal. You can easily sink 5000 or better into a build. Forming a good plan on paper can be very helpful.

I have been researching a build for my car, option one has me right at 5 grand for one build I have in mind. Option two is still being tossed around, but I know it will be more.
 
Thank you very much for the advice on the stroker. when you say refreshing the 360 do you just mean Cam, intake, and headers?
 
Dartnut said:
My advice to you is make sure the car is safe first before you go into the engine build process.
That means, are the brakes, tires, front suspension, rust issues especially in the frames and structural areas of the car good?
Click to expand...

Great advice and this is something you can do as you are working toward your goal on the engine.
 
gunship said:
Thank you very much for the advice on the stroker. when you say refreshing the 360 do you just mean Cam, intake, and headers?
Click to expand...

refresh engine / bearings new pistons & rings (block needs to be checked / bores cleaned up before you know which size pistons to get)
get the heads cleaned up replace what valves are needed
new cam & lifters (springs on the heads will determine the limit on the cam, if you go too much lift you will need new valve springs as well)
headers
intake
rebuilt carb

tally that stuff up and maybe if you are lucky you can pull it off.

stroker kit add $2k for a decent one.
if you go with too big of a big cam you will probably need valve springs like i said as well as adjustable rockers so the price goes up
 
gunship said:
Thank you very much for the advice on the stroker. when you say refreshing the 360 do you just mean Cam, intake, and headers?
Click to expand...

What i meant by refreshing it was to measure the bores, pistons, crank, rods, and heads for wear and replace what it needs. Since you are disassembling the engine anyway, at least re ring, bearing, and new gaskets would be a minimum with a good cleaning inside and out. It would be nice to change the cam, lifters, timing chain and gears, and the oil pump too. Take the heads to the machine shop and have them cleaned and do a valve grind, check the valve guides for wear, and have the gasket surfaces checked for straightness.
in short, replace everything that is worn out of spec and is not machineable.
Buy a 4 barrel intake and carb, and if you want headers, don't buy cheap ones! Save your money and buy Doug's or TTI's.
Most importantly, get a good book on the subject, especially a factory service manual for your car.
That's the first thing i would buy, and will pay you dividends in the long run.
Good luck.
 
Thanks for the tip. I am really rethinking the stroker build. I planned on all of that. Any recommendation on pistons (brand, type, etc)? New crank or just reuse the old one? I have a .480 lift cam in the 318 Magnum that is in my car. I have been told that may be too much lift for stock valve springs. is there any truth to this? I figured I could get the answer in here rather than making another post.
 
The primary thing to make a 360 run well is to get rid of the low compression pistons.You can get a decent set of Kieth Black hypereutectic pistons in a flat top with valve notches for about $225. These will get you a zero deck and get you up tp around a 10 to 1 or 10.5 to 1 compression.That along with a good cam(dont go too big) and a set of valve springs and retainers. Do a decent performance valve job. Some headers,decent intake and carb should round out a good budget build. I've built a hundred of these combos that ran really well without spending a fortune, you just have to realize that you are not building a world beater or all out performance engine and you can make some decent power for under a grand.
 
My guess is that if the valve springs are stock they are not strong enough for that cam, especially if they have a bunch of miles on them. If you drive it like an old lady and don't rev it much you might be good though.
 
Tell us about the Magnum that is in the car...might not be a bad way to go...
 
Completely stock bottom end, summit racing air-gap style intake, edelbrock 4 barrel carb, 284 duration/.480 lift cam. I want to build the 360 so I can continue to drive my car while building an engine. Its basically my daily driver.

Any recommendations for a set of valve springs?
 
Budget, 360 and stroker do not belong in the same paragraph. If you build a budget 360 with a tight budget, you're going to have a tough time of it putting gas in even a stock stroke 360. I would build a moderate 318. JMO.
 
wow you are doing the exact same thing i am lol

pickin up my 360 four barrel tomorrow :O

anyho if the bottom end (block, crank, rods n pistons) are good clean em up n install new bearings and rings.. HAVE A MACHENIST CHECK THEM

look at comp cams thing called cam quest n pick out a cam with lifters n bla bla..

if you have a fourbarrel carb (spreadbore) leave that carb n intake on there they are actually real efficient for stock equipment and if not intake and four barrel should be on your list


motor mounts will be different too and boring over your motor will NOT get more power
 
also there are a lot of different 360s out there if you have the vin on the driver side of the block post it on here and i will tell you what you have internal wise i have a chrysler book

im leaving my bottom end stock and cam upgrade for now. power is made in the heads, bigger pistons dont do a whole lot unless your goin crazy with it.

also dont go over 9.5 compression ratio other wise youll have to bump up to premium
 
gunship said:
Completely stock bottom end, summit racing air-gap style intake, edelbrock 4 barrel carb, 284 duration/.480 lift cam. I want to build the 360 so I can continue to drive my car while building an engine. Its basically my daily driver.

Any recommendations for a set of valve springs?
Click to expand...

I'd call Hughes about valve springs. I think their 1110s would fit and would imagine they would easily handle that cam.

You know, Holley carb, real Eddy air gap and some EQ heads would really wake up that magnum...

Just sayin!

;)
 
Stroker and budget do not happen unless your budget is 10K.

A 360 on the cheap is the KB 107's in a block decked to meet a zero deck hieght, Edel. heads, intake and 750 AFB, use a new cam with the duration to mee t the RPM band you want to operate in. An example would be;

MoPars Purple cam @ 292/.509 with the above basic build , proper stall converter, 4.10 gears suspension to match, this will land you low 12's with tuning the engine and chassis.
 
I helped build a 408 for a 64 barracuda last winter and we didnt spend anywhere near 10k. I f you already have them block the stroker kit is 12-1300 dollars. Machine work is around 800 max. We did aluminum heads and all and it was only 4500.
 
I know where you're coming from, I'm 20 and I just built a 'new' 360 for around $2000 for my '70 Duster... 1975 360 LA block, stock crank+rods, factory Magnum heads, Lunati 60401 cam, KB-107 pistons, Edelbrock Air-Gap intake. This setup should be good for around 325 HP, if you got the money some better heads will go a long way (RHS iron or Edelbrock aluminum) and a bigger cam than I used could push you over 400 HP.
 
Just summing it up here to make sure I have it right.
Stock crank and Rods
Keith black pistons
New cam
valve job/polish and port heads
Air gap intake
New carb
 
sounds right and also youll have to pay for all fluids, headers, couple pizzas, and some beer for the dad ha
 
Luckily my dad doesn't drink and my friends buy their own food i just provide drinks while working on vehicles haha
 
Don't forget about the associated parts that go with each item. Gaskets, bearings, rings, timing chain. Those will add up quickly too.
 
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