Temporary exhaust system

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MopaR&D

MopaR&D

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I am currently rebuilding the 318 for my '70 Duster and I don't know if I'll have enough money for a new exhaust system when I put the engine back in, and I definitely don't want to hook back up the stock system (WAYYY too small and quiet). So I was thinking, how would it work if I got two lengths of flex exhaust hose and just rigged them up from my manifolds to a side exit? I know it would be loud as HELL (which I want, for a while at least) and wouldn't flow nearly as well as a good dual exhaust X-pipe system back to the rear bumper, but would still be better than the crappy stock single exhaust. The only thing I'd need to figure out would be how to hook them up reliably to the manifolds and hang them from the chassis.
 
How about cutting the stock exhaust Y on the passenger side where the opening would face to the rear. Do the same on the driver's side. This gets you around how to hook up to the manifolds. From there you can do the flex hose thing (not recommended) or a couple of lengths of straight pipe topped off with a cheap glass pack. This may help you avoid unpleasant conversations with the law enforcement community.
 
(whiny, manipulative tone) Would it really be thaaat loud?? (LOL) I think before I make a decision I'll break the engine in with no exhaust and see how loud it is. If it's that bad I'll just say hell with it and hook up the stock exhaust for a while. Also, do you not recommend the flex hose procedure just for sound, or would it also be bad for performance?
 
use the stock exhaust to break in the cam/engine.

when you have the money go for duals.

I am using Dynomax Super Turbos 2.25"

flex hose out the side will cause police/neighbor
problems, besides the exhaust fumes.

Also flex pipe doesn't like the high temps you
will generate breaking in an engine.

Been there; caught a car on fire.Was lucky to have
a buddy with me with a big fire extingusher.

MOPEkidD-3 said:
(whiny, manipulative tone) Would it really be thaaat loud?? (LOL) I think before I make a decision I'll break the engine in with no exhaust and see how loud it is. If it's that bad I'll just say hell with it and hook up the stock exhaust for a while. Also, do you not recommend the flex hose procedure just for sound, or would it also be bad for performance?
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MOPEkidD-3 said:
I am currently rebuilding the 318 for my '70 Duster and I don't know if I'll have enough money for a new exhaust system when I put the engine back in, and I definitely don't want to hook back up the stock system (WAYYY too small and quiet). So I was thinking, how would it work if I got two lengths of flex exhaust hose and just rigged them up from my manifolds to a side exit? I know it would be loud as HELL (which I want, for a while at least) and wouldn't flow nearly as well as a good dual exhaust X-pipe system back to the rear bumper, but would still be better than the crappy stock single exhaust. The only thing I'd need to figure out would be how to hook them up reliably to the manifolds and hang them from the chassis.[/QUO :angry7::angry7::angry7: ??!?? WOW .........:angry7::angry7::angry7: USE THE STOCK SYSTEM TILL YOU GET THE BUCKS.
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If you dont have the money to do it right do you have the money to do it twice ?
 
AdamR said:
If you dont have the money to do it right do you have the money to do it twice ?
Click to expand...

thats some of the best words you have ever written and you have come up with alot of good reading during my years on FABO will have to remember that one:)
 
JUST AN FYI- JCWhitney has some thick wall flex pipe that I used temporarily(almost a year) from my spitfire headers down through the torsion bars that held up very well until I could fab up the down pipes for it. I used it as an intermediate pipe to attatch the dual exhaust all the way back.
 
Okay, okay, jeez, I wasn't that set on it anyway. First of all, I'm not actually "breaking in" a fully rebuilt engine; I'm swapping heads, intake, and cam and just need to break in the cam/lifters. I guess I'm just overly worried that if I use any of the stock components my car will be really slow. Before my timing set made ground beef of itself I was always really pissed off and disappointed with how slow it was (wouldn't pull past 3500 RPM and couldn't even chirp one tire) and how quiet it was (my friend's old VW Bug was louder). I am going to be really, really pissed if when I'm finished with everything the car won't be a street beast compared to its former self. This is my first and only car and it's already been over a month since I've had to park the car in my garage and bum rides off my friends and occasionally use my family's minivan to run errands.
 
Use the stock exhaust,
the 360 engine in Full size cars was single exhaust,
as was the 383 with the 2bbl.

I would just drive the car with the stock exhaust,
till you have the $500 to get a good exhaust.

I suggest duals off the stock manifolds,
headers on an A-body for the street are a royal pain.

I am 50 years old, and have owned Mopars,
and other vehicles since 1976.

Make sure you have good brakes and tires,
Before you spend the money on exhaust. ;)

MOPEkidD-3 said:
Okay, okay, jeez, I wasn't that set on it anyway. First of all, I'm not actually "breaking in" a fully rebuilt engine; I'm swapping heads, intake, and cam and just need to break in the cam/lifters. I guess I'm just overly worried that if I use any of the stock components my car will be really slow.
Before my timing set made ground beef of itself I was always really pissed off and disappointed with how slow it was (wouldn't pull past 3500 RPM and couldn't even chirp one tire) and how quiet it was (my friend's old VW Bug was louder). I am going to be really, really pissed if when I'm finished with everything the car won't be a street beast compared to its former self.

This is my first and only car and it's already been over a month since I've had to park the car in my garage and bum rides off my friends and occasionally use my family's minivan to run errands.
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Yeah, I made sure I spent all my money on that stuff before going to the engine. I have a new master cylinder (manual) and bled all the brakes, with new shoes on the rear drums. I have BFG Radial T/A's on all four wheels, and I rebuilt the front suspension with a kit from PST and added a front sway bar (which doesn't work very well; I think I'll play around with the mounting a bit). I also have a Firm Feel Level 2 p/s box sitting in my garage waiting to be swapped in. My plan for exhaust anyway is the 2.5" X-pipe system from Pypes; of course it's header-back, but the Race-Pro system with mufflers is only $300 on Summit.
 
If you have stock exhaust run it until you have the $$$ to change it.

If you were just breaking in the cam and didnt have any exhaust I have used manifolds and about 1' of pipe for the break in. For the exhaust system try the summit/jegs system with the house brand headers- you can't beat a complete header/exhaust set up for under $300, it's even mandrel bent and aluminized.
 
AdamR said:
If you dont have the money to do it right do you have the money to do it twice ?
Click to expand...
Adam - you musta been listening in to my conversations with my kids years ago! They got tired of hearing, "If you have time to do it over again, then you had time to do it right the first time."
Message finally got through and they started do it 'right' the first time!
Your message relating to cost is a good one.
 
Well, this is my take, and I'm guessing the exhaust manifolds will take a hike later.

Get the headers you want or spend cheaply on a set. Skip the X and H pipe and just run 2-1/2 pipe and a muffler. At the end, use 2 90* bent pipes to route the exhaust from under the car out infront of the rear wheels.

If you plan on keeping the exhaust manifolds, purchase some head pipes from a source like tti. Just the head pipes. Then do like what I said above.

That is the cheapest temp. exhaust I can think of.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Well, this is my take, and I'm guessing the exhaust manifolds will take a hike later.

Get the headers you want or spend cheaply on a set. Skip the X and H pipe and just run 2-1/2 pipe and a muffler. At the end, use 2 90* bent pipes to route the exhaust from under the car out infront of the rear wheels.

If you plan on keeping the exhaust manifolds, purchase some head pipes from a source like tti. Just the head pipes. Then do like what I said above.

That is the cheapest temp. exhaust I can think of.
Click to expand...


Yep, That is what I did, very cheap till I can get it done right! Still sounds goo too.
 
Summit and jegs offer dual exhaust/header back kits for the A body for less than $220. I believe they come with mufflers. Some here have used them. I also know they will fit an M body with a little work.
 
I used the Jegs version @ 2-1/2 and regular comp. headers from Hooker.
It's in my resto thread.

Then theres the $100 (or so) summitt headers, muffler of choice, like the Thrush's under $30 each and some pipe, 2 hangers and 6 clamps. You could be done for about $170, give or take.

Used swap meet or here in the for sale ad's could net you cheaper headers and/or mufflers.
 
I may go with the setup you mentioned, but headers are a definite no. Everywhere I've read the "budget" headers are a PAIN to install on A-bodies, and they almost always hang too low. I'm not going to think about headers until I do that nice 360 Magnum/4-speed swap in the future. I think this is what I'll do for now: Get two lengths of 2" or so pipe for cam break-in, then re-install stock single exhaust with maybe a cheap loud muffler. Then I'll get the Pypes Race-Pro system and use flex-hose to make mock-ups of the downpipes I'll need, which I'll take to a muffler shop and have fab'd from 2-1/4" pipe to mate better to the stock manifolds.
 
the pypes system is also stainless. I'm getting ready to put my new headers and pypes exhaust on
 
I used flex pipe and glass packs on a car once when I was way younger and didn't have any money.It worked real good and was plenty loud.I would save my my money for good headders and exhaust.
Jim
 
the first exhaust I had on the cuda was a 18"x2.5" glasspack into a 3" pipe kicked out the drivers side in front of the rear tire, NASCAR style HUGE angle cut (like 12" long8))

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