the"Busted knuckle duster"

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CFD244 said:
Took a couple of pics for you. This is the tool that I bought. The little bulge at the top of the measuring tip is 0.3 inches OD. The bulge keeps the stick from getting inserted too deep. When my vehicle is hot, the trans level runs at the 2 inch mark (probably could go a hair higher). When it has idled for 15 minutes from cold, it reads at the 1.25 inch mark. The other pic is a spare NAG that I have. As you can see, the oil level sits at the very top of the transmission case with the tube removed. This is of course once the converter and cooler are filled. Hope it helps.

BTW.......These trans are notorious for converter shudder. Just be aware if you feel something funky when you are driving. Apparently not a damage issue, more like an annoyance. It doesn't happen to them all, and there is an additive you can use to deal with it.

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So if the fluid is supposed to sit even with the hole when full and obviously cold then the dipstick doesn't really even clear the end of the tube when installed. The tube that was on my trans sets into the hole about 1 3/4 inches. Unfortunately I don't have room for the tube anymore. Was gonna use an aftermarket flexible tube,and stick. Now I am thinking about making an access hole in the tunnel so I can get to the hole,and just capping it off. That way I can get to it to fill and check just by opening a panel in my center console,and don't need to route a dipstick. Watcha think?
 
CFD244 said:
Took a couple of pics for you. This is the tool that I bought. The little bulge at the top of the measuring tip is 0.3 inches OD. The bulge keeps the stick from getting inserted too deep. When my vehicle is hot, the trans level runs at the 2 inch mark (probably could go a hair higher). When it has idled for 15 minutes from cold, it reads at the 1.25 inch mark. The other pic is a spare NAG that I have. As you can see, the oil level sits at the very top of the transmission case with the tube removed. This is of course once the converter and cooler are filled. Hope it helps.

BTW.......These trans are notorious for converter shudder. Just be aware if you feel something funky when you are driving. Apparently not a damage issue, more like an annoyance. It doesn't happen to them all, and there is an additive you can use to deal with it.

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Thankyou for the pics. I really appreciate you taking the time
 
The narrow spot that keeps the bulge on the stick from going too deep into the pan is actually in the transmission case not the tube. With the tube removed, the stick can be inserted into the trans approx 4 inches before it stops. I did the same thing with a thin screwdriver to confirm that the stick was not bottoming in the pan, and the screwdriver went deeper. I would want to check the transmission hot and idling to confirm it is at the proper level while in operation and not just rely on the cold static level. You could try fabbing something like this maybe?.....

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CFD244 said:
The narrow spot that keeps the bulge on the stick from going too deep into the pan is actually in the transmission case not the tube. With the tube removed, the stick can be inserted into the trans approx 4 inches before it stops. I did the same thing with a thin screwdriver to confirm that the stick was not bottoming in the pan, and the screwdriver went deeper. I would want to check the transmission hot and idling to confirm it is at the proper level while in operation and not just rely on the cold static level. You could try fabbing something like this maybe?.....

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Thats exactly like I was picturing. Where did you get the tool that you showed the measurements on. I thought maybe I would shorten the dipstick tube to about 5 inches. Use the original dealer only cap,and just use a shortened tool to check when needed. I will post some pics later on. Thanks again
 
OK haven't posted pics of progress for a while so here we go.

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Hood stripped
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trans ready for sonnax adaptor,speed sensor
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Parts ready for trans
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Trans assembled ready for driveshaft
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Fuel line parts
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Bracket we made to mount steering pump resevoir
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A/C lines done
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Rear window before
 
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Side windows like brand new thanks steelerubber
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Fenders, hood ,doors, and trunk lid lined up gapped,and installed
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brake lines getting finished
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Metal work actually done on body for real this time. Gonna start slinging filler next.

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So called milodon today. Other than the aftermarket dipstick getting stuck it is actually the right length. The milodon pan has a guide welded in to the pan to guide the dipstick in the right direction. With a hole to get it below the windage tray. Had to modify the guide bracket. Made it 1/2inch taller so dipstick would hit it,and not go over the top like it was before. Then I put a ball of weld on the end of the dipstick so it wouldn't get hung up in the tube anymore. Now it works perfectly. One less thing to worry about.
I bought a few heater hoses from napa. Stock ones that had the correct y joints,and hose sizes. Lucky that my napa guy will let me just dig through their stock when I don't know exactly what I'm looking for. Got them cut,and in place. Waiting on some one ear clamps to finish them up. Screw clamps won't fit between the firewall and engine,and they look horrible,and cheap. Thinking I won't run a shutoff valve on the heater hoses. Dont think I can make it fit. If it causes hell with the a/c I can always fight one in later.
Taking measurements, and somax adapter to driveshaft guy tomorrow. Should have driveline finished in a couple days when that comes back.
That said I have a plan for trans dipstick,but the car interior is taped off already for body work. So that will have to wait. Till then time to start sanding. Body work starts tomorrow.
 
As promised I just finished day two of bodywork. Forgot how many body lines are on a 74 dart. Gonna take a few days before she is ready for first prime. To all looking for advice at this stage all I can say is take your time. This stage is what makes or breaks a build. This car is in great shape ,but was a daily driver for many years. Meaning all the panels have a door ding,or dent,or wiggle. Gonna be skim coating almost the entire car to make sure I don't miss any. Here are some pics from the last two days. She will be beautiful.
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Cool Hand said:
As promised I just finished day two of bodywork. Forgot how many body lines are on a 74 dart. Gonna take a few days before she is ready for first prime. To all looking for advice at this stage all I can say is take your time. This stage is what makes or breaks a build. This car is in great shape ,but was a daily driver for many years. Meaning all the panels have a door ding,or dent,or wiggle. Gonna be skim coating almost the entire car to make sure I don't miss any. Here are some pics from the last two days. She will be beautiful.View attachment 1715746685 View attachment 1715746687 View attachment 1715746695 View attachment 1715746696 View attachment 1715746697 View attachment 1715746699 View attachment 1715746701 View attachment 1715746702
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I have a hard time getting that tape laser straight following the body line. I guess that's where experience comes in. Looks awesome. Keep the updates coming.
 
CFD244 said:
I have a hard time getting that tape laser straight following the body line. I guess that's where experience comes in. Looks awesome. Keep the updates coming.
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If you take a piece of coarse paper like 80 grit on a flat block. You can sand over the edge with the block flat,and it will leave you a good guide line to follow. If its still hard to see spray the car with guide coat first. Works perfect everything. They also make non stretchy straight line tape, but as you probably already know the lines are very seldom actually straight they usually have an arc to them.
 
Got this far and realized I was out of the filler I was using. The **** part is that I have two gallons of other filler,but this project is being done with only paint products from KBS coatings. So have two wait. Need to finish the customer cutlass this week anyway then my daughters graduation party. So will continue on next week.
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Have a good week guys,and gals.
 
Kendog 170 said:
Bet ya can't wait to prime. What Brand materials are you spraying ?
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We are building the car for display at the KBS Coatings booth at SEMA. They have started to carry an entire line of paint products on top of their usual rust seal,and undercoating. So I believe we will be the first to do an entire car in KBS. Have sprayed firewalls,and frames with it but never a whole car so it should be interesting to see how it lay's out on a large area.
 
Some parts out of primer getting blocked. And the busted knuckle duster is finally in booth ,and primed as of 7:30 tonight. Phew!
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Will post pics of primered car tomorrow. Got some customer work to do first. Might actually be shooting color soon.
 
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And so it begins. I was worried about the new paint. Always overthink a new product,after weeks of bodywork. Completely unfounded concerns. Stuff laid down beautifully. One stage looks like the parts were dipped in. More durable than base clear,and no recoat window. Never wanted to paint an 01 on anything more in my life.
 
So here she is folks. Gonna put some undercoating on inside of fenders ,and put her together. Trunk lid hood,and smalls left to paint orange. Gonna let her cure for a few days then cut,buff and satin black is next.
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