The engine was just rebuilt I was told!!!

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Kent mosby

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So I picked up a 1973 scamp with a homemade paint job and a 440/727 sitting in the bay but not hooked up. The seller who's dad was a racer said he was building it for his son. He said it was decked, bored and new forged pistons installed, valves replaced....etc. He also said the transmission had "race bands" installed. I bought the car and he delivered it to me, very nice I thought.

For the last 2 weeks I have been asking for any paperwork on the machining or types of pistons...etc. He is moving out of state in another week and is not responding to my requests.

So, today I pulled the heads and my worst fear came true. Stock cylinder diameter, no milling done, valves not done, original pushrods. Now I have to figure out what to do next.?? My son and I wanted to build the motor for racing at the drags. Hopefully getting into the 10 sec range. If we continue with this one, I will go down to bare block and start from ground up.

I was suckered into this but now I will just make the best of it. Perhaps it is best as I will know what I have. The motor is an 830 block from 1973, low compression motor home. There are many build threads so my homework is just beginning. This is part introduction and part ranting to get it off my chest once and for all. Never to be repeated.

What would you guys do? Complete rebuild? run it as is? leave the lower end alone and build the upper?

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A local has the nick name '10 second 318', people still call him that, even though he dipped into the 9s over a year ago.

Less weight than a 440 too......
 
Kinda depends on your budget. ....
I'd put it back together as is and see how it runs.....


Jeff
 
If there's no ridge at the top of the cylinder it may be a low mile motor. Pull the pan. Check a couple main bearings, if they look good change some gaskets and order the Hughes low compression whiplash set up. Made to work with low comp motorhome engines. If you want to get into the 10's you wont do it on those heads.
 
Looks pretty clean, I'd run it as it is for now. If you want more ponies later, build it! 65"
 
I guess it is safe to say you learned a lesson. It is my motto that if you can't see with your own eyes what the seller claims, assume it is not what he says and buy accordingly. Then if you tear it down and it is what he claims it is, your a winner.
 
440 big block in a Scamp..looking for low 10's...Get the hairdryer! Heck, you already have the low compression pistons! Youll have a great time building a turbo motor.
 
Use what you have while you set the car up to handle 10 second passes then build it right.
 
Motorhome engines tend to be relatively low mileage, most of it hiway.
Read the spark plugs, they'll tell you if it's an oil burner.
My son and I are about to do the same thing with a Challenger.
As mentioned, - get it to hook with the stock motor, then go for power.
You'll be driving and smiling sooner, and doing an engine is an excellent winter project.
jmo . Cheers
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
I guess it is safe to say you learned a lesson. It is my motto that if you can't see with your own eyes what the seller claims, assume it is not what he says and buy accordingly. Then if you tear it down and it is what he claims it is, your a winner.
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True. If an engine is not running, you must assume it needs a rebuild. If it was really 99% done and ready to go, any reasonable seller would get it running for the sale. If they do not take the time to get it running, there is a reason. OR they must be willing to sell it for less. Same with transmission. If car is not running and driving, you should assume there is tranny work to be done. The only way I would not make those assumptions is if the seller provided me with receipts.
 
You guys are great. I will keep the bottom end as it is for now. The top end has only heads(213s) which kinda suck. I have no carb or exhaust/ headers, but I do have a torker 2 intake, so I will needs to plan those. I don’t even have a radiator. So to get it running, I need to prep the entire top end. No easy way around that but I am glad to hear that the bottom end is workable. Thanks and keep the advice coming.
 
The engine looks entirely serviceable. I would pull it, pull the pan and get eyes on the lower end just to be sure things are ok. If you pull the caps and the bearings look ok but with some normal wear - put it back together. If they look wiped you need to discuss budget because the costs will add up quick. You need to choose a direction at that point. I've seen some decent engines listed over the past couple months - finding another one might be the less expensive deal if you can get one with some pedigree.
 
Kent mosby said:
You guys are great. I will keep the bottom end as it is for now. The top end has only heads(213s) which kinda suck. I have no carb or exhaust/ headers, but I do have a torker 2 intake, so I will needs to plan those. I don’t even have a radiator. So to get it running, I need to prep the entire top end. No easy way around that but I am glad to hear that the bottom end is workable. Thanks and keep the advice coming.
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Don't you love how a guy can look you in the face and straight lie to you?
 
I had a classic car dealer service manager (his personal car) near StL, lie straight to my face about the internals. I found out the worst of it in the spring (bought in Nov.). I don’t trust a word now without seeing it with my own eyes and with supporting documentation.

I won’t be another used car with looking at the plugs and a compression test.
 
j par said:
My question is how do you keep posting all night long and never get any work done on your car?? Oh yeah, that's why... Your addicted to FABO.
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It's that I have my priorities right. Here in 15 minutes I'm going to the shooting range for the day. I'm going to shoot until my trigger finger is bloody and it's so dark I can't see.

Priorities. It's all about priorities.
 
first thing you should do is to go over and piur a gallon of airplane stripper over the guys most valuable car.... maybe a few drywall screws in the sidewalls of his tires and if you have time loosen the drainplug on his rearend just to the point where it will hold for a few miles....
hehehehe
 
I can tell you first hand, that a low compression 440 in an A body can be a very fast and reliable combo. Clean up the bottom end, rings andbearings. Cam and valve springs. Good intake and headers. Get a decent quality converter and throw a 4.56 or 4.88 gear in it with a slick. If you really need to go 10s, put a shot of nitrous on it. Get your fuel and ignition right, a 440 will take 175 shot no problem
 
Sorry to hear you got conned by another creep of society.

Everything looks dry as a bone in that engine. I would take it all apart and assemble it properly, and along the way look for stuff to be upgraded.
If it's going to be a racer, have crank assembly balanced.

10 second car?
I would look for a shorter dragstrip to get those 10's.

With a low budget I would try to install a supercharger on it for some added 'push' on those heavy stock pistons.
 
Kent mosby said:
You guys are great. I will keep the bottom end as it is for now. The top end has only heads(213s) which kinda suck. I have no carb or exhaust/ headers, but I do have a torker 2 intake, so I will needs to plan those. I don’t even have a radiator. So to get it running, I need to prep the entire top end. No easy way around that but I am glad to hear that the bottom end is workable. Thanks and keep the advice coming.
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turn the heads upside down and fill the combustion chambers with water and see if any of the valves leak....

Edit: Install the spark plugs to keep the spark plug hole from leaking during the test...
 
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