The Other 68 Dart Resto Project

-
Time is ticking away...13 months now. :clock:

This weekend will be warm, so I will be spraying another coat of primer so I can finish blocking it. Next will be the epoxy primer. Tick, tick...
 
good job on the body work its allot of work but it'll be worth it in the end. I know i gotta do this to my car, and im doing the same to a ford at work, lots of work but o well might as well practice on a ford before i do the cuda :D :thumbup: love the pictures keep us updated
 
I got the car completly 100% block sanded today, every square inch, crevice, nook, and cranny. Tomorrow I am going to shoot another coat of the filler/primer on a few panels that have a few low spots. If I have enough time tomorrow, I might even shoot the sealer. :thumrigh:
 
100_1832.jpg

100_1830.jpg

100_1828.jpg

100_1826.jpg


100_1842.jpg

100_1841.jpg

100_1840.jpg

100_1836.jpg


100_1848.jpg

100_1847.jpg

100_1846.jpg

100_1845.jpg

100_1844.jpg

100_1835.jpg
 
wow! great work man! cant wait to see it finished up! youre getting closer!
 
It might be a few days before I can block it again, Sanding everything Saturday pretty much killed my bad shoulder, Sunday morning it felt like someone tore off my right arm, dragged to open would in salt, then glued it back on with hot glue, so I took some drugs and continued working, spraying the car. Now I think I need a week to recover, as I sit here typing, my arm is still twitching.
 
flyboy01 said:
It might be a few days before I can block it again, Sanding everything Saturday pretty much killed my bad shoulder, Sunday morning it felt like someone tore off my right arm, dragged to open would in salt, then glued it back on with hot glue, so I took some drugs and continued working, spraying the car. Now I think I need a week to recover, as I sit here typing, my arm is still twitching.
Click to expand...

thats to bad about the shoulder, it will all heal eventually when your driving it :D its good to see what people can do in there garage, and with alot of elbow grease, its gives me alot of motivation. So about how many times did you block and primer the whole car?
 
Unfortunately bad shoulders don't get better, they get surgery. Eventually I know it will get bad enough to where I have to get it done, for now, I'm too much of a wimp.

As for the car, it was blocked once over 3 coats of Featherfill G2 (one of the thickest sprayable), I sprayed a second 3 coats on the panels you can see, I hope this is the last time I block it. This of course is not including any bodywork, which was blocked many times to get it close to straight. The car looked god initially, but had so many waves, dips, and dings, it took me many months to get it straight, but I know better now, and if I did it again, I would not fart around with mixable filler, I would have gone straight to the sprayable stuff, its much easier to work with. If I did the car over again, I would have either blasted or chemically stripped the outer body panels, and then done the bodywork all at once, with the car assembled, rather than one panel at a time.
 
What grit are you blocking it with? I used to use PPG K200 and block with 80 grit 17" longboard sander. Could do an entire car in a day and prime it again. When straight, block with 150 grit, prime, and then 400 grit for paint.
 
lay off for a week or 2 or until the shoulder feels good. it ain't worth jacking it. your car is going to be straight as hell.

you're killing me with the anticipation of paint...........
 
Man flyboy that looks damn good. You are right shoulder injuries do't get better they keep flaring up as you get older it doesn't take much to aggrevate them. I unjured mine 10 years ago and it still bothers me every so often, no fun at all! You must feel good to be at this point of your project though. I know I would, can't wait to see it painted. Are you painting yourself as well?
 
Looking real good ! Still on my first go around with blocking. I know I'll be doing the entire car at least once more, most likley 2 more times.

Im doing 180 grit dry right now, 80 seems way to coarse for blocking primer. I think Im going to do another coat of high build and hit it with 180 again before blocking the last coat with 400 wet.

Once thing is for sure, Buying some nice blocks made a huge difference. I bought a 6 pack of Dura-Blocks for $30 off of ebay. Worth every penny.
 
AdamR said:
Looking real good ! Still on my first go around with blocking. I know I'll be doing the entire car at least once more, most likley 2 more times.

Im doing 180 grit dry right now, 80 seems way to coarse for blocking primer. I think Im going to do another coat of high build and hit it with 180 again before blocking the last coat with 400 wet.

Once thing is for sure, Buying some nice blocks made a huge difference. I bought a 6 pack of Dura-Blocks for $30 off of ebay. Worth every penny.
Click to expand...

If you think you are going to spray more than one coat of a good filler primer (featherfill G2 or Slicksand), then go coarser than 180, I used 120 grit on the bad areas, then blocked with a 220 on the straight areas, followed up with a red scotchbrite pad (about 350 grit) for the smooth areas. Once you are certain you have it smooth, go over everything with 400 and finish with gray (fine) scotchbrite pads (about 600 grit). Then you can spray the primer/sealer. I used epoxy mixed as a sealer (w/20% reducer). Next will be paint. I am going to paint the door jambs and hood & trunk this weekend.

FYI, want to practice before you spray the whole car, do the outside of the hood or trunk lid. WHAT!?!? No, i'm not nuts. If you screw up and have to sand it back off, the hood or trunk are flat panels and are easy and fast to sand.
 
Ive got the first round of blocking done with 180 all ready. I may just do the 1/4s again with 180 then the whole car with 220, followed by 400 wet.
 
Adam a 6 pack of Dura-Blocks for $30 Wow! What sizes were included, Depending on what you got seems quite a bit cheaper than Eastwood -
7 Piece Sanding Block Kit-$59.99 Dura Block Shorty 5 pc kit-$39.99
Dura Block Long Board 3 pc Kit - $79.99










This is what I would like but $189.99


15 inch board is $69.99 and 21 inch is $79.99 quite pricey has anyone used these? What was your opinion of them? Worth the money?

durablock.jpg


longboard.jpg
 
Its better to have a variety than fancy rods in them, go for the durablocks and guide coat, SEM or Evercoat work well.
 
70dart said:
Adam a 6 pack of Dura-Blocks for $30 Wow! What sizes were included, Depending on what you got seems quite a bit cheaper than Eastwood -
7 Piece Sanding Block Kit-$59.99 Dura Block Shorty 5 pc kit-$39.99
Dura Block Long Board 3 pc Kit - $79.99
Click to expand...

Im going to make a thread about supplies later, I'll post a link to the auction.
 
I did a bit of block sanding today, the driver's door that gave me all that trouble came out pretty straight. The bottom charcter line come out ultra straight, the middle crease was a little soft, the top line came out flat too. I sprayed a little more Featherfill along the middle crease, I will sand it again tomorrow, it should come out perfect.

100_1852.jpg


100_1850.jpg


100_1851.jpg
 
I got in a little bit of trouble yesterday, my neighbors that live in the apartment above my garage came home to a stinky apartment from the primer fumes. That pretty much stops any spraying I can do in my garage. I did not realize that the smell was that bad, but they had to open all their doors and windows. Oh well, I was done with the filler/primer anyway. O:) I guess I am going to have to haul my car to the paint booth to spray the sealer.
 
I think this is a blessing. The final paint will turn out better in a booth, regardless of how carefully you prep the garage.

A+ build. Pictures and details are so realistic it feels like I am standing there, smelling the filler fumes.....
 
hey send them to six flags with a hotel room for the weekend and shoot your car
 
Well, I actually like where I live, I kinda want to keep living here. I narrowly averted it Sunday, I actually overheard them bitching about it through their open window, which is why I walked over and apologized and promised them I would not do that again.
 
Thanks for the info guys, much appreciated. So durablocks would be better to use? Man Flyboy Ican't get over how good your work is, awesome. What if you bought a couple of the Box lke fans and rig up an exhaust system where the garage door is. That should get rid of any fumes and overspray shouldn't it?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top