The Other 68 Dart Resto Project

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Hey Flyboy Great job on the body work I hate doing the body work because it is so time consuming. It will be nice to see this thing complete when you finish

Is that a 1 car garage you are doing all that work in?
 
Another update. I spent the day doing the final block sanding, the body is straight, but I sprayed another coat of filler primer a few weeks ago, a couple of weeks ago we hung the doors, hood and trunk. Today I got the doors and hood aligned, then I blocked most of the body with 320 grit. I almost got it all done, but I still have to do the right rear quarter and both front fenders.

I was originally going to paint the engine compartment after wards, but I am thinking about stripping it out and doing it at the same time.
 
that's a great idea fly. you'll be happy you did
 
8)

Small blocks are for:

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tiled floors? lol
 
Might be a while, I need a weekend of 75F dry weather, and I have laser eye surgery coming up in two weeks. I ahve to be very careful about getting dust and dirt in my eyes fow a while afterward. My guess, it will be a month at least, probably more.
 
I got a box full of parts from summit today! :cheers:

B&M Transkit
B&M Flexplate
Drag Shocks
Bearings, gaskets, assembly lube.
Carb fuel line and pressure guage
Dist Recurve kit
2 1/2 exhaust system

:angry7: Its sad how small a box they can fit $900 worth of parts into!

Now I have to wait for the box from Mancini for the rest of the engine assembly parts, could you believe that summit did not sell any piston rings for 383 Mopar!?!?
 
I got a box full of parts from summit today! :cheers:



Now I have to wait for the box from Mancini for the rest of the engine assembly parts, could you believe that summit did not sell any piston rings for 383 Mopar!?!?

You should have asked for Chevrolet 427 rings.......same thing. I bet they would`ve had those.
 
Not a problem, I bought most of the stuff from Summit only because of the $10.95 shipping charge, I bought the rest of the stuff from Mancini.
 
I was looking back and realized all the stuff I learned about bodywork, all the mistakes I made that I had to correct, and now that I have done it, I would have definately done things differently. I would come up with the same results if I did it again, but it would now take about 1/4 of the time. I should probably start a new thread on what I learned. I will probably wait until I am done with this phase of the resto first.

Lately, since I have not had warm enough weather to spray sealer or paint, I have been working on mechanicals and stipping & cleaning various parts (love my sand blast cabinet!). I have all the parts I need for the engine and trans now, so I will begin putting those together soon. The rear suspension is done already, the front is in good enough shape to last a while before needing a rebuild (but I do have new parts coming if I can ever get the Post office to find the package that was mailed to me last month), my next project is to start cleaning, dying, and repainting interior pieces red. I also have to fabricate my custom dash now that I have all my autometer gauges.

I have a lot of work to get done in the next 3 1/2 months, but I think I can do it, the biggest thing holding me up is the paint, once I get that on, I can start putting the car back together.
 
If I paint my car black (which I've thouht about) I'd go with Red interior too. I'm curious how the whole dying process goes - as opposed to throwing your checkbook at Legendary for replacements...

Nice work by the way, I've caught up on your posts finally and have learned alot, thanks!
 
Actually, dying works extremely well. WHat you have to remeber is that dying is only for fabrics, carpet, and soft vinyl only. Plastic and metal need to be painted, you can't mix the types, so you just have to be sure which is which. I ordered samples of headliner material and carpet today from the paddock, as soon as I get those and decide that they are the right color, I am going to get the right color match of paint and dye for the interior. I will post pictures when I do it.
 
does that dash bezel screw into the factory holes? looks good. very user friendly and really accurate gauges.
 
I have seen them in person, and I would have expected the finish to be nicer for the money. They usually come with a lot of scratches from machining, the cutouts have rough edges, and the gauge cups have gaps. Most of these dashes need to be heavily sanded and smoothed, most are also painted, I have not seen any left bare aluminum. Don't get me wrong, they are nice, but not what I would want for the money they cost. Just my opinion, as many people have bought them and been happy, I know I can build something myself and have it exactly as I prefer.
 
Great work Fly. Just wanted to thank you for the door hinge repair write up. Helped me out seeing the pics. And getting the right bit too.
 
I did a little more work this past weekend, mostly cleaning the garage (I tripped twice in 3 minutes on the same crap on the floor, time to clean), the last part of the weekend was cleaning the block, getting it ready for assembly, I used engine brushes and brakeleen.

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looking good, keep it up man!

i cannot wait to see this thing done!
 
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