The "Throw Away 318"

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Cley, you are really fortunate that the rod went where it did - only a pan to replace. A few degrees up and the block would have been ruined.

You say you used a HV oil pump but I assume still using the standard capacity pan? I have some understanding that this is not wise - often the pump will suck out too much oil that sometimes can't be drained back in time. I would always use a higher capacity pan (at least 1.5 extra Quarts) with a HV pump. It would be ok for most driving but doesn't give much margin for safety. I am using a 318 'A' engine pan and pickup (Poly engine) on my 340. They are about 1.8 extra quarts over the LA engine pan. They bolt straight on but you need the poly gasket set though.

As for the 318 trash-talk - I really don't understand this thinking - firstly there is not a great deal of difference between a 318 and 340. There is a lot more differences between a 360 and the other LA engines - the externally balanced (mostly) all cast crank, so you need to use the special torque converter or modify a standard one; and use a 360-only damper plus with different rear main so a different pan is needed. I think also the engine mounts were different in some way. The 318 right from the day it was sold was a "nothing special" by the factory. But it had strong rods, many had the forged cranks, the strong factory shaft mounted rockers and so much potential. In 1968 it had over 9:1 CR, but small valves, average flow, under exhausted and under-cammed, it was just created as an average engine. But it doesn't take a great deal of effort to get them lighting a fire under your A**. You only have to fix up those factory-given disadvantages of compression (in the later ones) and flow, worked/flowed heads or aluminium after-market, a nice cam, twin system and headers, 4 BBL and a 60 over bore starts to get it closer to the 4" of the 360 and you can easily get 120+ extra HP from the humble 318. And because they are so common, the initial purchase price is often very low, or even nothing, as in the case of the OP's situation. They are still a Mopar engine, strong, well designed and with all the awesome potential that entails.
 
And my XB X-12 Buell
Yeah. but you'd have bragging rights on the BUELL forum that you beat a scooder.

Mines a 638cc with 52 HP and what is a XB? 1.9 times the cc and 2 times the HP? Race ya in 1st gear only. Mines a CVT.......

And can a Buell XB X-12 run 100 MPH for hours in the desert heat? Like 105-112 Degrees F at 100 MPH for a full tank?

But if I want to go fast on just two wheels I have a beat to hell 2006 GSXR750 that is not a comfortable cruiser.
 
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... You say you used a HV oil pump but I assume still using the standard capacity pan? I have some understanding that this is not wise - often the pump will suck out too much oil that sometimes can't be drained back in time...

This is not true. I ran a High Volume, High Pressure oil pump with a stock pan and pick up for years and over 100,000 miles in a HP 273 4 speed Barracuda that was never shifted below 3,000 rpm. Never had a problem. Of course more oil, a windage tray, and baffles would not hurt anything.
 
A high volume oil pump draws a lot more HP to run. Even with the Sanborn (RIP) oil port mods. You are trying to suck more thick oil thru the same size 3/8 ID straw pickup.

Better bet would be a standard pump with a new Kevco type pump cover that is a 5/8 ID pickup.

Then add a Crank Scraper to your pan to scrape most of the oil off the crank, not all but most. Even better is to add a 'Power Port" to the pan just under the Crank Scraper.

Kevko M303 pickup.jpg
20191215_214838.jpg
 
A high volume oil pump draws a lot more HP to run. Even with the Sanborn (RIP) oil port mods. You are trying to suck more thick oil thru the same size 3/8 ID straw pickup.

Better bet would be a standard pump with a new Kevco type pump cover that is a 5/8 ID pickup.

Then add a Crank Scraper to your pan to scrape most of the oil off the crank, not all but most. Even better is to add a 'Power Port" to the pan just under the Crank Scraper.

View attachment 1715779013 View attachment 1715779014
That’s a nice setup but u can also only push so much oil out the pressure/volume side. U may not need all the oil but it is nice to have. Kim
 
That’s a nice setup but u can also only push so much oil out the pressure/volume side. U may not need all the oil but it is nice to have. Kim
That is where the Sanborn mod makes sense.

Open oil passages from the pump, including the pump itself, to the oil filter and back to the right side lifter gallery out to a full 1/2 inch... and open all crank oil journal feed holes from 7/32" to 9/32 or 5/16. Most blocks will take 5/16 but start with 9/32". There are more mods but these are the main issues with low flow with high pressure.

Also open the 4 filter plate holes to 3/8" and or add 4 more holes too.

All Magnum blocks are 1/2 inch feed and 5/16" main bearing feed, and have 6 holes in the filter plate..

"U may not need all the oil but it is nice to have."
For Sure Man, For Sure.
Put it to work for ya, not wasted.
 
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I think the stock LA oil pickup tube to the sump is 10 inches of smaller than 3/8" and the outlet of the pump is like 13/32", then the block to oil filter and back is also 13/32". Opening that all up to just 1/2 inch is free horsepower as the pump is not working as hard. Then opening the main bearing feed holes by 3/32" is even less restriction to a place that NEEDS more oil.

A High Volume pump using all stock restrictive ports is wasting about 15 horsepower.

Doing the Sanborn mods, adding the Kevco type pickup tube and a Stock volume pump will gain you maybe 5-10 horsepower over STOCK for a net gain of maybe 25 HP.
 
A high volume oil pump draws a lot more HP to run. Even with the Sanborn (RIP) oil port mods. You are trying to suck more thick oil thru the same size 3/8 ID straw pickup.

Better bet would be a standard pump with a new Kevco type pump cover that is a 5/8 ID pickup.

Then add a Crank Scraper to your pan to scrape most of the oil off the crank, not all but most. Even better is to add a 'Power Port" to the pan just under the Crank Scraper.

View attachment 1715779013 View attachment 1715779014
Then u need a rear sump pan like a truck/van. Also a aftermarket front end. Kim
 
Then u need a rear sump pan like a truck/van. Also a aftermarket front end. Kim
I think Kevco makes a 5/8" pickup tube for the center sump car pans. $59.99 but it is still necked down at the pump. I have brazed the pump where the pickup went and then bored it and taped it to 1/2 inch ID.

Kevco center pickup tube M301-1


For $259.99 or so get their M301 - 340 2 quart larger car sump pan with a built in baffles and crank scraper and gain more power there too.
"It is fully equipped with a gate assembly, 2 hinge traps, multiple diverters, scrapers and a baffle. Fits all standard Mopar K Frames. Uses factory Mopar dipstick."

M301 - 340M302 - 360Stock Location


M301_-_M302_ LA pan.jpg
 
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I think Kevco makes a 5/8" pickup tube for the center sump car pans. $59.99 but it is still necked down at the pump. I have brazed the pump where the pickup went and then bored it and taped it to 1/2 inch ID.

Kevco center pickup tube M301-1


For $259.99 or so get their M301 - 340 2 quart larger car sump pan with a built in baffles and crank scraper and gain more power there too.
"It is fully equipped with a gate assembly, 2 hinge traps, multiple diverters, scrapers and a baffle. Fits all standard Mopar K Frames. Uses factory Mopar dipstick."

M301 - 340M302 - 360Stock Location
Thanks. Kim
 
Horsepower and Torque just give you reference points so you can tell if you have improved from the previous mark by adding or adjusting. The real test is ET and Trap speed, if you can't make it to the track, find a hill. Drive up the hill using a stopwatch and mark the time to a certain marker. Go back down the hill and put 4 nicely equipped ladies inside the car, one in the passenger seat, 3 in the back. Go back up the hill and check your time at the same marker.

Engine Bay with Oil Catch Can Arrow.jpg
 
A high volume oil pump draws a lot more HP to run. Even with the Sanborn (RIP) oil port mods. You are trying to suck more thick oil thru the same size 3/8 ID straw pickup.

Better bet would be a standard pump with a new Kevco type pump cover that is a 5/8 ID pickup.

Then add a Crank Scraper to your pan to scrape most of the oil off the crank, not all but most. Even better is to add a 'Power Port" to the pan just under the Crank Scraper.

View attachment 1715779013 View attachment 1715779014

A HV pump doesn’t take much more power to drive than a standard pump. The total oil used through the system is controlled by how many leaks you have and how much they leak. The HV pump will most likely open the bypass sooner unless the engine has excess clearance.
 
Every HV pump also has the heaver 'By-Pass' spring so it will not go by pass as soon.

There are many Dyno run tests of just HV pumps out there. I wish I had the Dyno sheets to show. The Dyno tests I was involved in were on a mild 451 stroker 400 block with its external pump. They did these runs with a standard volume and bypass spring then changed the pressure relief spring up till 80 PSI and lost 15 HP from base.
Then a HV with its spring it came with and lost 25 HP from base. It was pushing 85 PSI. Then we replaced the spring so we had 50 PSI at idle hot and it still lost 15 HP.
 
Horsepower and Torque just give you reference points so you can tell if you have improved from the previous mark by adding or adjusting. The real test is ET and Trap speed, if you can't make it to the track, find a hill. Drive up the hill using a stopwatch and mark the time to a certain marker. Go back down the hill and put 4 nicely equipped ladies inside the car, one in the passenger seat, 3 in the back. Go back up the hill and check your time at the same marker.

View attachment 1715779528

What is that oil separator? It looks like a remote fuel/fuel filter, plumbed to the PCV and Intake with a breather on top.
 
Every HV pump also has the heaver 'By-Pass' spring so it will not go by pass as soon.

There are many Dyno run tests of just HV pumps out there. I wish I had the Dyno sheets to show. The Dyno tests I was involved in were on a mild 451 stroker 400 block with its external pump. They did these runs with a standard volume and bypass spring then changed the pressure relief spring up till 80 PSI and lost 15 HP from base.
Then a HV with its spring it came with and lost 25 HP from base. It was pushing 85 PSI. Then we replaced the spring so we had 50 PSI at idle hot and it still lost 15 HP.

Not really helpful to just throw out a number. As with everything, there is more to it. What engine, clearances, RPM, oil, intended usage, and I'm sure there are more.
 
OK so there's all this talk and disagreement that torque does nothing? Let's consider a Diesel in a Semi. How is 460 HP with over 2000 lbs of torque NOT moving 80k pounds up a 7 % grade? Sure that truck is using a serious gear ration final and it's turning around 1800 RPM or less, maybe more but it sure as hell isn't using those 460 HP alone. Now lets take a 8 inch wrench and apply force to it to turn an object and measure how much effort it take to do that. Then increase the resistance and measure again. Is it HP or Torque that is turning that object? Every one of our so called Torque wrenches is calibrated in LBs per foot. So what is turning the bolts or nuts? Are we calculating how many HP we produce based on how many rpms we are spinning as we tighten those parts or are we measuring the actual force applied to the part? We all know the piston is pushing on the rod which is applying force to that crank which is TURNING and it turns the transmission which spins a drive shaft which spins a pinion gear which changes rotational direction and spins axles which spin tires and we move the vehicle. Is that correct? So we measure the torque applied to all the parts in the drive train back to the tires which either moves a vehicle or spins a rotor assembly of a dyno which spins other parts and has sensors that record input and a computer processes that data and finally we have a display that indicates Torque and HP along with a list of other data like BSHP, RPM, Vaccum/Pressure and so on. We observe Torque curves and HP curves but the fact of the matter and always will be this. HP is calculated figure of work based on how much work which is TORQUE is done within a specific time period. If you don't believe that, then look it up! If that isn't enough, put a 300 HP engine that has 450 ft lbs of torque up against another engine the makes 450 HP at 300 ft lbs with the same gears at the same rpm, tire size and weight and see which one moves which one. All this crap about HP being King comes to this. It's already been said and agreed upon that TORQUE RULES ! Other wise a 440 6 pack would never have been in competition with a 340 6 pack or vice versa. And a 350 Chevy would have never been needed to be replaced with a 454 in any vehicle, unless you simply aren't in a hurry to get anywhere and don't mind listening to that 350 spin 5k while the 454 is doing he same job faster at half the RPM.
 
I liken torque to what makes the car **** and git. I have an 86 mustang GT not the best year but it is 200 HP 285 ft. lbs. of torque, that combination propels the car fairly well, and while it is a 15 second car in stock form, the 60 foot time isn't bad, and with stock 2:73's it performs well on the highway against the Mustang haters with the Nissans and Mazdas.... as in it goes to 140 all day in stock form with 100 K miles on it.
 
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I agree. I had a '72 Scamp with a factory stock 318 which would smoke many comers on 'traffic light to traffic light" dashes on Military Drive in San Antonio. Most who could not beat the Scamp accused me of having modified the engine. But to their credit each one backed off when they were able to inspect the car. For whatever reason, it was just a fantastic car and by most peoples account a great "sleeper". And I also agree on the 360. I currently have a 71 Duster which originally had a 318 but at some point a 360 was dropped in. Not a bad engine, but you don't want to pass up too many gas stations. :usflag:
 
And my XB X-12 Buell

Now there’s a fun bike in the twisties. What does that weigh? I used to have a ‘03 Sporty-1200 w/bolt on mods only. Very enjoyable little bike. I spoke with a few riders over the years and they were saying they did really well w/there Buell in the city streets and mountain courses.

They all attribute it to the engines high torque and the well balanced frame. All were saying it was a really good set up.
 
I rented a Buell Ulysses XB12x for a week end. Had fun most times.

Explaining to LEO why I had the front wheel up crossing the intersection.... Not so much. Cost $275 and court costs.
 
Now there’s a fun bike in the twisties. What does that weigh? I used to have a ‘03 Sporty-1200 w/bolt on mods only. Very enjoyable little bike. I spoke with a few riders over the years and they were saying they did really well w/there Buell in the city streets and mountain courses.

They all attribute it to the engines high torque and the well balanced frame. All were saying it was a really good set up.

I think its like 425 lbs, with 100HP and a 100 ft/lbs of torque at the rear wheels.
Its a really neutral bike and wears its weight well, like the swing arm is the oil tank, and the frame is the gas tank.
It does not go worth a crap in the snow, got stuck one time in the mountains in just a few inches of snow.
 
I rented a Buell Ulysses XB12x for a week end. Had fun most times.

Explaining to LEO why I had the front wheel up crossing the intersection.... Not so much. Cost $275 and court costs.
Ouch
 
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