the truth/opinions about cams

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joec

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Seems theres always a cam question. The answer id like to find out is when a statement is made about newer grinds vs old if both were compared on a dyno would there really be a big difference?Would it be worth the change? Are we talking 50 hp diff. if comparing same .050 durations similar lift same lobe centerline but newer profiles? My guess is no ,but id like some opinions,remember same #s just old vs new.Another pet peeve is mfgrs, comp vs crane vs racer brown vs lunati and so on (because they must be using chevy lobes) how much power is it and is it worth to change ? Another is put on some 1.6 vs 1.5 rockers on a .450 lift cam and look out for that extra 50 horses. NOT! If you took a factory stick like the 340 cam and had one ground with the same advertised .050 no matter the grinders you will probably gain at least 1000 more hp. Right!
just rambling
 
Calling YellowRose https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/members/yellow-rose.41803/..... (this conversation is right up his alley) :D

I'll just throw out a wooden nickel... I don't really care for the fast ramps today. Noisy, hard on valve train, require a ton of spring pressure, easier to lose a lobe on break in.....



I ain't touching that with a ten foot pole you're holding.

This stuff has been hashed out over and over. If the OP wants to learn, he can search the forums, or if he is like me, he can ask someone to post some links to the threads worth reading.

If the OP thinks there is no difference between cam companies, or their grinds, he just needs to grab the Comp catalog and find a cam with his RPM range and buy that.
 
I ain't touching that with a ten foot pole you're holding.

This stuff has been hashed out over and over. If the OP wants to learn, he can search the forums, or if he is like me, he can ask someone to post some links to the threads worth reading.

If the OP thinks there is no difference between cam companies, or their grinds, he just needs to grab the Comp catalog and find a cam with his RPM range and buy that.
how about weight of oil? :poke:
 
I dont want to learn.I just want to know how some can justify saying some of this crap. Such as the newer profiles make more power apples to apples same .050 same lsa how much power diff.
is there?How about 1.5 to 1.6 rockers there must be a gazillion on a street engine.My point is the marketing is b.s. and not worth it.
 
The main difference , as I see it , between old and new cam grinds is DRIVEABILITY. Old cams with .525 lift were a bear on the street . Just another day for new cams . One other is the advancement of hydrolic roller cams that are much easier on the valve train . the next area is the advance in metaleurgy . finally , the machine work is much more precise . Great time to be a hotrodder . Sorry for the misspelling . Later , Tom
 
The answer id like to find out is when a statement is made about newer grinds vs old if both were compared on a dyno would there really be a big difference?Would it be worth the change? Are we talking 50 hp diff. if comparing same .050 durations similar lift same lobe centerline but newer profiles?

50hp for equivalent cams of old vs new...... especially if we’re talk hyd cams?

Imo.....No.

50hp doesn’t usually come that easy if you’re only changing one part.

But if one cam makes 10-15hp more than another one that costs the same amount of $$$..... some people are going to want it.
 
I dont want to learn.I just want to know how some can justify saying some of this crap. Such as the newer profiles make more power apples to apples same .050 same lsa how much power diff.
is there?How about 1.5 to 1.6 rockers there must be a gazillion on a street engine.My point is the marketing is b.s. and not worth it.


It's called testing bro. Research and development. Dyno time. Days at nasty tracks with prick owners and crappy crews.

That's a start. Do that for 30 plus years and then you'll get a handle on it.
 
50hp for equivalent cams of old vs new...... especially if we’re talk hyd cams?

Imo.....No.

50hp doesn’t usually come that easy if you’re only changing one part.

But if one cam makes 10-15hp more than another one that costs the same amount of $$$..... some people are going to want it.


The OP doesn't want to hear this. The OP doesn't want grab 10-15 HP, here and little, there a little, line upon line until you "FOUND" 50 HP.

The OP is not only not wanting to learn, he evidently doesn't want to work either.

And yes, I'm feeling a bit pissy right now. What a bullshit thread.
 
It's called testing bro. Research and development. Dyno time. Days at nasty tracks with prick owners and crappy crews.

That's a start. Do that for 30 plus years and then you'll get a handle on it.
off subject, but I read that about track owner/crews a lot. I feel very fortunate that our track is very friendly, prep well, and has always been an all around great experience - for over 30 years. Cordova Dragway :)
 
off subject, but I read that about track owner/crews a lot. I feel very fortunate that our track is very friendly, prep well, and has always been an all around great experience - for over 30 years. Cordova Dragway :)


It's a bit different when you end up dealing with a city bureaucracy and their lawyers who won't go by their own written laws, and they collude with other tracks to coerce or downright threaten people who have no dog in the fight to use their leverage to kill anything moving forward to increase the use of the dragstrip.

I could type for 2 hours and not hit even the high points about how filthy CART was. Just FILTY.

I detest politicians. I'm related to a couple of them. Working with them is impossible unless you are a boot licking quisling.

Yep, I'm not a fan of owing to any track much any more. BTDT.
 
The one with the biggest bumps must be the best one right? Full race cam... yea baby!:rofl:
 
Yes, there "could" be a 50HP difference, but ONLY if the "old grind cam" was a very poor choice in the first place. But "best grind" new VS "best grind" old.....maybe 20HP difference, IF that, IMO.
 
I ain't touching that with a ten foot pole you're holding.

This stuff has been hashed out over and over. If the OP wants to learn, he can search the forums, or if he is like me, he can ask someone to post some links to the threads worth reading.

If the OP thinks there is no difference between cam companies, or their grinds, he just needs to grab the Comp catalog and find a cam with his RPM range and buy that.
YR now why you gotta be like that? (we all know youve walked across the desert
swam the ocean,been on the moon) but my post was not serious when i said 50 hp. .My point was that on a street cam with same at .050 same lsa you are not gonna find a bunch of hp. as PRH said. As far as reading articles what I meant was I wasnt trying to learn but pointing out the crap ex.(if you get a racer brown cam vs comp your gonna find a million hp because he said so)just not so. Im talking street lobes not max dwell .
Yes, there "could" be a 50HP difference, but ONLY if the "old grind cam" was a very poor choice in the first place. But "best grind" new VS "best grind" old.....maybe 20HP difference, IF that, IMO.
AS I said apples to apples same .050 same lsa . Point was so many fall for the bullcrap .
 
It's a bit different when you end up dealing with a city bureaucracy and their lawyers who won't go by their own written laws, and they collude with other tracks to coerce or downright threaten people who have no dog in the fight to use their leverage to kill anything moving forward to increase the use of the dragstrip.

I could type for 2 hours and not hit even the high points about how filthy CART was. Just FILTY.

I detest politicians. I'm related to a couple of them. Working with them is impossible unless you are a boot licking quisling.

Yep, I'm not a fan of owing to any track much any more. BTDT.
Yeah like when hipsters n yupsters move in the development built next to the track
thats been there for decades and start complaining about the noise and their property values, and the local *** kiss politicians bend over for them and re zone.
 
I’ve had good luck with Lunati voodoo cams, a lot of duration at .050 short overall in most street applications. My wife’s runs 11s it’s a summer daily driver.
A custom ground cam is almost always the best option with a trusted friend grinder.
 
I was working in the parts store back when Comp Cams first started so we sold a lot of old school cams. Before Comp, we sold a lot of Crane and TRW. Back in those days there wasn't a lot of affordable valve train components. Most of the cam companies screwed with duration to make power and didn't mess with much lift, especially for street cams. The manufacturers had the same mentality. They needed a combination that would run the numbers but last until the warranty was up. Design a cam with some duration to get the job done but not a ton of lift so it was easy on the valve train.
 
I can say from personal experience that a shelf cam is not the answer for maximum performance.

I had a sponsor deal years ago and I got free Engle cams. I always lacked straightaway speed.

When that deal ended, and I needed a cam, I called Chet Herbert. His $50.00 regrind fixed the speed and off corner acceleration issues I had.

My kids dirt B modified has more kick off the corners than anything Ive seen in the same class. Granted we put a bit more squeeze in his SBC than the rules permit...
 
At least 2 ways to get somewhere. "New" means nothing to me. If you know what you are doing you might be able to get a computer the help you. Cam lobes can also be designed from experience and testing. And that is only the beginning.
 
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