Thermoquad idling issues

[toypar]

Did you ever try adjusting the metering rod tree?

I did adjust it. But I found fuel dripping into the primary blades and into the intake from somewhere.

 

[toypar]

Don't think that is a crack. It looks like the wells have been re-epoxied & some of the epoxy has run down the side of the bore.
Every TQ I have seen that has original epoxy, epoxy was white.

Scraping at the suspected crack with a pocket knife. Zero epoxy is coming off and it feels like there is a few thousands difference in height between one side or the other of the line. Maybe the rebuild company put epoxy over the crack to try and cover it.
This is what I saw last week leaving a mark on the gasket. I cleaned the excess epoxy off and didn’t really think much of it.

 

[Bewy]

The piece of epoxy that runs from the well to the edge of the bore might stop the gasket from sealing. If, & only if, the epoxy used to seal the well was leaking, then fuel could leak out into the bore.

The met rod screw [ tree ] adjustment has nothing to do with the idle system.

 

[toypar]

An update. I rebuilt a nice untouched 6322s, Phenolic body looked perfect. Installed some 137 secondary jets, 95 primary with 1966 rods. Idling issues have been resolved. Starts with the touch of the key after sitting for an hour and doesn’t run extremely rich at an idle.

I also installed a ME Wagner adjustable PCV valve. I highly recommend if you can swing the cost. Everything was marked in little bags, came with extra screws and hex wrenches. In depth instructions. Seems to have taken care of my huge vacuum leak with a normal PCV and 10 inches of vacuum.

The Thermoquad has a small stumble when the secondaries open. So I need to play with the secondary door spring and see if I can take care of that.

Now it’s on to finding a Choke for the LD340 intake it’s on

 

[Bewy]

Make sure the air valve dashpot [ right side, rear of carb ] is in good cond. When old, the internal rubber goes hard causes strange problems. Buy a new one if in doubt.
To adjust: engine idling, there should be 1/16 - 1/10" of freeplay when you gently push down the rear of the AV. This takes up the slack in the dashpot link arm. Bend the arm to get this dimension. Make sure the arm/AV does not hang up in it's travel.

 

[toypar]

Make sure the air valve dashpot [ right side, rear of carb ] is in good cond. When old, the internal rubber goes hard causes strange problems. Buy a new one if in doubt.
To adjust: engine idling, there should be 1/16 - 1/10" of freeplay when you gently push down the rear of the AV. This takes up the slack in the dashpot link arm. Bend the arm to get this dimension. Make sure the arm/AV does not hang up in it's travel.

The dash pot is new and works properly. I will check that adjustment.

 

[66fs]

... Now it’s on to finding a Choke for the LD340 intake it’s on

If I remember correctly, you can use the choke from an International Harvester with a TQ, but you have to fab your own rod. I'll see if I have any pictures.