JFLN
Well-Known Member
Your 13psi radiator cap is too low. You need a 16psi cap. The higher pressure cap will raise the boiling point of your coolant. A cheap fix that I believe will solve your problem.
Thermostat or No Thermostat?
- Thread starter SLC Duster Dude
- Start date
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TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
The shroud on your electric fan only helps pull air from that 16 inch circle and is nowhere near the same as a regular fan shroud that makes the air pull through the whole radiator core.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
A higher pressure cap will only raise the temp that the thing boils over, and won't help the temps at all.
JFLN
Well-Known Member
The 13 psi cap lets the coolant boil at a lower temp and then once the coolant boils the cap releases the pressure and the temp skyrockets. The 16psi cap will raise that point. That's why Nascar uses about 20psi caps.
It's an electric fan so nothing can be done about shroud and fan depth .
Pretty obvious but I'll ask... is it pushing the air if you have it as a pusher and/or pulling if you have it set up as a puller? Blade usually has to be flipped depending on direction of flow.
I had the same issues and ended up going to a factory shroud and fan clutch and solved it. If you want to stay electric I have a dual fan your welcome to try and a couple different fan blades and fan clutches we can try.
leblanc
member 2883
A double electric fan should work though. A double electric with shroud off an Intrepid V6.
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TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
I understand how it all works, but I also know for fact that a single 16" 2400cfm fan doesn't cut it when it starts getting warm out. (you noticed my location, right?)
He also said overheating but nothing about loosing coolant.
If he wants to drive that thing and never have to worry about it the full size fan with a full sized shroud is the solution for mechanical cooling.
If he really wants to stay electric then the Ford Contour dual fan with the shroud should do it.
Staying cool on the hiway under load proves the radiator is capable, but a 16 inch circle of airflow isn't.
T56MaxTorq
Well-Known Member
If you ever disassemble any multi-cylinder engine and take measurements you’ll notice that every outboard (1,2,7,8 on a V8) cylinder bore diameter has more wear than the inboards. Typically more than .0005”
This is why everyone is screaming at you to put the thermostat back in.
This is why everyone is screaming at you to put the thermostat back in.
GTS Dave
You're born free, then you're taxed to death.
After replacing nearly everything on my 340, the last two items that took care of my
overheating issue was replacing the water pump with a non-cavitating
GMB 1201070P High Performance pump and a new fan clutch.
overheating issue was replacing the water pump with a non-cavitating
GMB 1201070P High Performance pump and a new fan clutch.
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
I mentioned early on to compare his fan with the Lincoln/ Crown Vic fan or the Mustang fan
anything else just does not work except a dual
did you say pusher or puller
is there room for a lincoln fan?
me I use a fan clutch and 9 blade 2 1/2 inch pitch factory service bulletin setup and a dual pusher (mostly for the AC) I have a 73 New Yorker 440 radiator and a plated water pump impeller
The guy that first did these was associated with Speed-O-Motive working on propane motors- really bright
others quickly copied
post up your full radiator dimensions
I agree that the fan is the first fix
anything else just does not work except a dual
did you say pusher or puller
is there room for a lincoln fan?
me I use a fan clutch and 9 blade 2 1/2 inch pitch factory service bulletin setup and a dual pusher (mostly for the AC) I have a 73 New Yorker 440 radiator and a plated water pump impeller
The guy that first did these was associated with Speed-O-Motive working on propane motors- really bright
others quickly copied
post up your full radiator dimensions
I agree that the fan is the first fix
famous bob
mopar misfit
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ AGREE W/ THE ABOVE POSTS
I will tell of my recent experiment w/ elec fans. Get ready will be a long post.
I have an aprox. 723 horse 505" stroker in a 68 barracuda. I have been running a 17" belt driven / mech. steel fan, 28x19 alum. crossflow rad. w/ 2 rows of 1 1/4" tubes. I reworked a 16" full alum. fan shroud to run 2 - 14" ceramic ball bearing fans. They seemed to pull more air at idle than the mech. fan. I drove it to mens prayer breakfast yesterday morn., outside temp was hi 50`s to 60 degrees. The engine heated up as much as it did w/ the old mech. fan set up, when in 90* weather. The same thing when I drove home. I have a 15" pusher fan set to come on at 200 in front. It was running all the time after total warm up. I attest the bad performance to the 1/2" deep shroud w/ the elec fans. My mech fan shroud is a little over 2" deep. I had both sealed to the rad. very well. No doubt in my mind the elec set up would cool a lesser engine tho. I got home and pulled the dual elec set up off and reinstalled my mech fan and shroud.
The only thing I might change is the fan itself, the steel fan is very heavy, I think an alum. fan exactly the same size , hi RPM rated would be a hair easier on the water pump.
Oh. everything between the bumpers is new, no rusted or stopped up parts, 180 degree thermostat used w/ both set ups. NO BRAG JUST FACT ! JFYI Bob
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
See if the 11 blade composite gm fan will fit if you are running backwards with serpentine
composite can get the perfect shape/ airfoil
some aluminum fans are not shaped right
later factory fans benefited from some NASA research
composite can get the perfect shape/ airfoil
some aluminum fans are not shaped right
later factory fans benefited from some NASA research
Bob, Long post? That’s about the typical length of Del’s first sentence.
Yote
Well-Known Member
Just got back from a short cruise. A couple semi hard 1/4 mi runs. Near factory radiator, 180' thermostat,new sender, 7 blade factory steel fan w/ shroud not sealed to radiator, 89' ambient temperature, 340/4 spd. Temp gauge barely rose above minimum operating temp. Temp. gun confirms temperature. Guess I really don't have much to offer those having heating problems.
Yote
Yote
B3422w5
Well-Known Member
Probably a cheezy fan. If it doesnt pull 20+ amps it isnt cutting the mustard
famous bob
mopar misfit
Both the 14" fans are 25 amps apiece, forgot what the 15" front pusher is. The dual fan shroud and fan set up is for sale if u have less h.p. it`ll more than likely work.
I ditched electric fan setup in High comp. BB 67 cuda years ago with same overheating issues like OP.
Got aftermarket fan,moved closer to radiator(3 core alum.) and made custom aluminum shroud
Made car at least drivable. Still cant leave running a long time sitting without driving..........
Got aftermarket fan,moved closer to radiator(3 core alum.) and made custom aluminum shroud
Made car at least drivable. Still cant leave running a long time sitting without driving..........
I use a 2006-2007 Chevy HHR fan on my 22" radiator, it kept my 410 stroker (540+ hp) motor cool on the streets, and between rounds on the track on hot days. It has a full shroud, pulls over 3000 CFM, and for about 50 bucks it is one of the cheapest options. All you have to do to make it fit is a little trim off the tabs on the sides.
mario03srt
Well-Known Member
Switch from ported vacuum to straight vacuum on the carb. It gives the engine some timing at idle the temp will fall big time!
FYI,
Marion
famous bob
mopar misfit
no carb., fuel inj. , vacuum has to be where it is !
famous bob
mopar misfit
A lot of diff. between 500 and 700 h.p. on cooling. I had well over 3000 cfm between the 3 elec fans, wouldn`t cut it.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
What I like about this fan is the blade shape, which is what you see in OEM fans, both mechanical and electric. A lot of the after market fans that crap out in real use have the thin blades. Here is why they fail to move air:
- Pulling air through the radiator creates a low pressure are between the back of the rad and the fan. This pressure drop is usually around 0.5" + or -. And there is also a higher pressure area immediately behind the fan.
- The air tries to flow around the blade from the higher pressure exhaust side of the fan back to the intake side of the fan where there is lower pressure.
- With the thin blades, the air has an easy time of taking this 'sneak path' around the blade and back to the inlet. When this happens, then the fan just recirculates the same air around its blades and stops pulling as much fresh air through the rad.
- The fat blades make it harder for this 'sneak path' to occur. Again, look a the OEM fans, both electric and mechanical.
So that is why the flow ratings of fans is not the whole story. The above-pictured fat blade fan probably maintains over 2000 cfm of airflow in a real installation, as opposed to multiple 2000+ cfm crappy-bladed fans, whose flows actually drops to well under 1000 cfm each when mounted behind a rad.
One final thing: The HP used at low speeds to move the car is in the 50 HP range. And when idling, the output HP is 0. So there is no real relationship between peak HP and the heat shedding requirements. At idle, it has a lot more to do with displacement, because the waste heat generated is fairly proportional to that. (Plus compression and timing, etc.)
Just for fun, what year is your 360 block? I understand that the early blocks (pre 75) had larger water jackets and thus thin cylinder walls. Just curious.
mario03srt
Well-Known Member
I have fuel injection also, a FiTech. Put you can vacuum either place!
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
I don't know exactly what he has for a radiator capacity, but I completely agree it could be that his low rpm pump flow is less than desirable. On the cheap he could use an 8 impeller water pump, or a.c. version or move to a milodon like you recommended.
Personally, I use a single 1 inch row aluminum radiator in my street car, 410 10.1 comp and it never gets hot, stopped or hauling ***.. so I'm betting the pump and or then the state of fan location or "size".
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