JFLN
Well-Known Member
Your 13psi radiator cap is too low. You need a 16psi cap. The higher pressure cap will raise the boiling point of your coolant. A cheap fix that I believe will solve your problem.
It's a stock pulley and the fan came in a shroud.
Your 13psi radiator cap is too low. You need a 16psi cap. The higher pressure cap will raise the boiling point of your coolant. A cheap fix that I believe will solve your problem.
A higher pressure cap will only raise the temp that the thing boils over, and won't help the temps at all.
It's an electric fan so nothing can be done about shroud and fan depth .360 .40 over, stock pistons, Eddie heads, Air Gap manifold, medium Eddie cam, headers aluminum radiator and electric fan.
I always have an overheating problem when the temps get over 85°. Not driving down the highway, but as soon as I slow down or wait at a light. The radiator is in excellent shape, no crud or anything. New 13psi cap too. I took the thermostat out last year thinking it would help but it doesn't. The electric fan is 16" high flow (2400 cfm) and goes almost top to bottom but not side to side.
Thoughts? Ideas?
The 13 psi cap lets the coolant boil at a lower temp and then once the coolant boils the cap releases the pressure and the temp skyrockets. The 16psi cap will raise that point. That's why Nascar uses about 20psi caps.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ AGREE W/ THE ABOVE POSTSRunning without a thermostat is not a good idea... It makes the engine warm up slower which increases wear.... 80 - 90 % of wear happens when the engine is cold...
You need a good shroud and make all of the air from the radiator go through the shroud... Not all electric fans have a large enough shroud to cover the whole surface area of the radiator...
The shroud should act like a funnel so all of the air passing through the radiator goes through the fan...
Both the 14" fans are 25 amps apiece, forgot what the 15" front pusher is. The dual fan shroud and fan set up is for sale if u have less h.p. it`ll more than likely work.Probably a cheezy fan. If it doesnt pull 20+ amps it isnt cutting the mustard
Switch from ported vacuum to straight vacuum on the carb. It gives the engine some timing at idle the temp will fall big time!360 .40 over, stock pistons, Eddie heads, Air Gap manifold, medium Eddie cam, headers aluminum radiator and electric fan.
I always have an overheating problem when the temps get over 85°. Not driving down the highway, but as soon as I slow down or wait at a light. The radiator is in excellent shape, no crud or anything. New 13psi cap too. I took the thermostat out last year thinking it would help but it doesn't. The electric fan is 16" high flow (2400 cfm) and goes almost top to bottom but not side to side.
Thoughts? Ideas?
no carb., fuel inj. , vacuum has to be where it is !Switch from ported vacuum to straight vacuum on the carb. It gives the engine some timing at idle the temp will fall big time!
FYI,
Marion
A lot of diff. between 500 and 700 h.p. on cooling. I had well over 3000 cfm between the 3 elec fans, wouldn`t cut it.I use a 2006-2007 Chevy HHR fan on my 22" radiator, it kept my 410 stroker (540+ hp) motor cool on the streets, and between rounds on the track on hot days. It has a full shroud, pulls over 3000 CFM, and for about 50 bucks it is one of the cheapest options. All you have to do to make it fit is a little trim off the tabs on the sides.
View attachment 1715170782
What I like about this fan is the blade shape, which is what you see in OEM fans, both mechanical and electric. A lot of the after market fans that crap out in real use have the thin blades. Here is why they fail to move air:I use a 2006-2007 Chevy HHR fan on my 22" radiator, it kept my 410 stroker (540+ hp) motor cool on the streets, and between rounds on the track on hot days. It has a full shroud, pulls over 3000 CFM, and for about 50 bucks it is one of the cheapest options. All you have to do to make it fit is a little trim off the tabs on the sides.
View attachment 1715170782
Just for fun, what year is your 360 block? I understand that the early blocks (pre 75) had larger water jackets and thus thin cylinder walls. Just curious.360 .40 over, stock pistons, Eddie heads, Air Gap manifold, medium Eddie cam, headers aluminum radiator and electric fan.
I always have an overheating problem when the temps get over 85°. Not driving down the highway, but as soon as I slow down or wait at a light. The radiator is in excellent shape, no crud or anything. New 13psi cap too. I took the thermostat out last year thinking it would help but it doesn't. The electric fan is 16" high flow (2400 cfm) and goes almost top to bottom but not side to side.
Thoughts? Ideas?
no carb., fuel inj. , vacuum has to be where it is !
I don't know exactly what he has for a radiator capacity, but I completely agree it could be that his low rpm pump flow is less than desirable. On the cheap he could use an 8 impeller water pump, or a.c. version or move to a milodon like you recommended.You need a better pump and a better radiator. Just because the radiator isn't plugged doesn't mean it's big enough.
Also, a high volume water pump should be on every build. Ever. You can get a Milodon pump for 80 bucks or something.