Tiger ride quality

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Yeah, I dont think all that will come out with a tire change. If it were me I would put effort into researching the shocks. What do you have on there now?
 
Throw the KYB's in the trash. That's your problem right there.

I ran KYB's on my Challenger with 1.12" torsion bars for a long time. The day I replaced those god-awful KYB's with Bilstein RCD's it was like having a brand new car.

A tire change will not solve the issue, you need to get rid of those shocks.
 
72bluNblu said:
Throw the KYB's in the trash. That's your problem right there.

I ran KYB's on my Challenger with 1.12" torsion bars for a long time. The day I replaced those god-awful KYB's with Bilstein RCD's it was like having a brand new car.

A tire change will not solve the issue, you need to get rid of those shocks.
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I know its seems like a lot when you are used to buying $30 shocks.....but it should be considered as important as any other suspension component. I believe some are rebuildable.
 
dave ellis said:
I guess you could say I want my car to be one of those elusive my car can do anything projects. A lot of compromises of course. I'm an old fart now and love driving as much now as I did when I was 16. 69 now and not in the good way anymore. I'd like to power and I like the handling and sometimes I go a bit overboard on some of the features I put on my car. I have pretty stiff torsion bars on it and super stock springs and shocks in the back. Front shocks are kyb gas adjusts. Front and rear sway bars, a 440 motor and a manual for speed overdrive. I was interested in looking for a good riding tire that wouldn't make my bars a little more pleasant. I realized that the shocks are the way to go for this but the prices are unbelievable for a retired guy like me. It's a big four-door b body but I want it to be able to do anything I want with it. Pie in the sky I know but I get a kick out of them hobby trying to design The impossible. Any help in my finding shocks that will tame my heavy bars for a reasonable price would be appreciated. You can only learn so much from advertisements. You really need to have the advice of those with experience. I don't want to spend a lot of money on shocks only to have to keep changing them to get that experience. Any input from you guys is much appreciated. Thanks, Dave
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No pictures? Now you're just being rude
 
clementine said:
I know its seems like a lot when you are used to buying $30 shocks.....but it should be considered as important as any other suspension component. I believe some are rebuildable.
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Yeah but even a set of Gabriel Classics or Monroe-Matics will still ride better than those KYB's, and they cost less.

Don't get me wrong, they're still not going to be nearly as nice as a set of Bilstein RCD's because the RCD's are tailored to the larger torsion bars. But almost anything is better than those KYB's for ride quality if you're running larger torsion bars.

The RCD's are expensive, but not nearly as expensive as some of the other options out there (Hotchkis Fox's, RideTech, Vikings, etc). And compared to swapping out your tires and a bunch of other parts trying to solve an issue being caused by the shocks they're cheap. Unless you get rid of the larger torsion bars those KYB's are going to make your ride miserable. And if you're planning on doing some autoX, even for fun, you should keep the large torsion bars and just ditch the KYB's.
 
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I knewfrom the get-go that the tires weren't the answer I just figured that as long as I had to buy new ones I might as well see what change I could get out of them. I have 235 on the front now and they hit the sway bar before you reach full lock. I'll have to get something narrower with a smaller diameter.
 
72bluNblu said:
Yeah but even a set of Gabriel Classics or Monroe-Matics will still ride better than those KYB's, and they cost less.

Don't get me wrong, they're still not going to be nearly as nice as a set of Bilstein RCD's because the RCD's are tailored to the larger torsion bars. But almost anything is better than those KYB's for ride quality if you're running larger torsion bars.

The RCD's are expensive, but not nearly as expensive as some of the other options out there (Hotchkis Fox's, RideTech, Vikings, etc). And compared to swapping out your tires and a bunch of other parts trying to solve an issue being caused by the shocks they're cheap. Unless you get rid of the larger torsion bars those KYB's are going to make your ride miserable. And if you're planning on doing some autoX, even for fun, you should keep the large torsion bars and just ditch the KYB's.
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dave ellis said:
Are the shocks on the bergman site the rcds you're talking about? The ones that work well with the stiff bars?
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Yes, the Bilstein’s listed are the RCD’s. I run them now with 1.03 Tbars, front and rear sway bars, and a 200 tread wear sticky 225’s on all 4 corners and rip the twisties all the time, car is planted and handles on rails…
 
72 Duster as seen in my profile pic. Currently 10.5/1 340+ 390 HP 4speed, 3.91 on a short *** 24.9 inch Falken 615 tire… all with stock style Firm Feel suspension… will be better once I get a chance to make some more upgrades…
 
When I first drove my Barn fond 65 home, it was still wearing 1971 air-cushion bias ply tires and original 1965 shocks. It was like driving on glass, and handled like it was driving on ice! Those Bias ply tires really rode well but just didnt handle highway grooves at all. Good luck on a soft tire nowadays that is not a performance soft like a 10,000 mile Continental off a luxo sport model today.
 
clementine said:
I like to order shocks by measuring vs what another car runs.
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By measuring what? Dampening rates? Number of valves?

Length is easy, getting a shock with the right dampening rates to match your wheel rates is the most important thing. And since dampening rates and graphs aren’t usually available, asking some people that run similar wheel rates isn’t a bad plan.


pishta said:
When I first drove my Barn fond 65 home, it was still wearing 1971 air-cushion bias ply tires and original 1965 shocks. It was like driving on glass, and handled like it was driving on ice! Those Bias ply tires really rode well but just didnt handle highway grooves at all. Good luck on a soft tire nowadays that is not a performance soft like a 10,000 mile Continental off a luxo sport model today.
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The compound isn’t the primary driver of ride quality anyway, it’s sidewall construction. And with the fairly limited selection of tires for 15” rims getting something with a significantly softer sidewall construction is going to be tough. And of course, the softer the sidewall the worse the handling characteristics will be
 
72bluNblu said:
asking some people that run similar wheel rates isn’t a bad plan
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I was under the impression that different weight and springs of a car will give them different wheel rates...(wheel force vs wheel travel)....or maybe not....one guy has a 63 B body (coil spring?) and one guy has a torsion bar setup for a lighter car. I guess I am confused as to why ordering the same shock is a good idea. especially at that cost. Am I missing something here? No disrespect, you da man.
 
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